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Thread: scroll sawing with the carvewright

  1. Default scroll sawing with the carvewright

    Hi all,

    Well I am also a scroll sawer and I was hoping to use my carvewright to at least do the bulk of cutting out the pattern. so far no luck!

    So I am wondering if anyone else has tried this and would be willing to share how to do it I want to use 1/4 inch board and scan in the scroll saw patterns to be cut out using jpg's or something like that. I can get the patterns in but cant seem to figure out how to cut the wood thru. any help would be appreciated and thanks for any help

    Bobby

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Northern Colorado
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    Default

    The best bit for doing this would be the 1/16" cutting bit http://store.carvewright.com/product...cat=291&page=1 It has a smaller cutting path.

    For setting up your scroll saw patterns most times it is best to bring them in as vector paths instead of at patterns. You can then assign the bit to the paths to be cut much like the same way you cut them out with a scroll saw.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
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    9,984

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    I tried a few years ago with some hand traced Vector lines on thin wood. FAIL...

    I did use the 1/16th inch end mill like I use for cutting fire tags.

    I did tell the machine that I had a 1/4 inch bit installed and that set the feed rate to it's slowest speed. If you just left the vector line as a 1/16th bit then the feed rate for the cut would be 2 speed, slow to start and on turns then a faster feed rate. It is this faster feed rate that was a big FAIL as it pushed the bit faster than the 1/16th bit could clear the material.

    So a single speed cut telling the machine I had a 1/4 inch bit installed and actual cut using a 1/16 gave me some "OK" results. The problem was the little parts that were cut loose... They got stuck everwhere... and under the rollers... Made for a LUMPY carve...

    I DID use Double Stick Tape over the whole design but much of the cut outs came loose...

    One of our former Users (RIP) taught me to use the "Skin" method.... Using Thin solid Material but don't cut all the way through and leave a SKIN on the bottom. After cut, you flip it over and SAND the Skin off releasing the little parts....

    And as for getting the Vector Cut Lines into Designer.. They say that using the DXF and Corel Draw to do that... OR hand trace a pattern.

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Yellville, AR 72687-0652
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    2,369

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bjmwoodworker View Post
    Hi all,

    Well I am also a scroll sawer and I was hoping to use my carvewright to at least do the bulk of cutting out the pattern. so far no luck!

    So I am wondering if anyone else has tried this and would be willing to share how to do it I want to use 1/4 inch board and scan in the scroll saw patterns to be cut out using jpg's or something like that. I can get the patterns in but cant seem to figure out how to cut the wood thru. any help would be appreciated and thanks for any help

    Bobby
    I use scroll saw patterns for some of my carvings. If I am making puzzles I use the CW unit to mark the pattern on the board (.065); and cut the outlines with the CW unit. I cut the inside lines with my scroll saw, if I need to make inside cuts that are small I drill the blade hole with the CW unit. I find I don't need to attach the patterns this way. Most of the time the 1/8th or the 1/16th bits cut too wide of a path to work right. If the inside cut is large I use the 1/8th inch bit with the CW unit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails puzzles 6 ptn+.png   puzzles 6 ptn-cw.jpg   Scroll Saw Pattern.jpg   bluegill_Page_3+_DISP-cw.jpg  

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  5. #5

    Default

    Interesting thread.
    I create a lot of thin wood for the scroll saw community. Mostly 1/4" thick stuff, of all different widths and species.
    I had the idea, at one time, of carving a 1/4" carved region, into a 3/4" board, and thought that scroll sawyers would love it. They could do their scroll sawing into the carved region (since it's only 1/4" thick there), and the rest of the board could have words, or a pattern carved into it.

    When I pitched the idea to the folks on one of the leading scroll saw forums, everyone thought it was stupid. Everyone thought my idea made no sense to them. They say "why have a thin area, and a thick area with a carving in it? If we want something in the thick area, we scroll it!". So...I dunno....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
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    9,984

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    Your www does not work.

    Scroll Saw Guys HATE Laser Engravers TOO... The BURNT BROWN EDGES.... The ACCRACY... The DETAIL.... The Repeatability..... The QUICKNESS.... NOT FAIR.... LOL.... I talked to some Scroll Saw Guys at Craft Shows... Mention LASER ENGRAVER.... And it went down hill quick....

    I agree, doing a 1/4 inch deep vector cut then letting the scroll saw guy cut the rest of the 1/2 inch of wood... They feel Cheated....

    I think doing a Vector Cut with the CW with a thin bit like the 1/16th end mill.... Leaving a SKIN on the bottom holding it all together... Then Sand the bottom to release all the parts...

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Lawton, OK
    Posts
    483

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    For some larger projects that require scroll saw work, I cut the pattern in the machine to a depth just shy of the full thickness of the board. I then sand the back of the board in my 22-44 jet drum sander down to the point that the pieces just pop out then scroll any other fine lines that need put in. A little clean up with a dremel and sand paper and it works great. I never use my CW to fully cut out patterns partly to save wear and tear on the machine and because i also have the advantage of have all the other tools in the shop to make it possible to cut out separately.

  8. Default

    Thanks guys for all the great suggestions and I am now thinking that the designer 2.0 package will be even more helpful with some of the new pierced features

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