Cutting out a carving

[gcruise]

Just need to know if when you use the cut path function, what is recommended for work holding? Should I use a carrier board or a sled? I have attached my pattern. Just trying not to damage my machine. Thanks for the help.

[DocWheeler]

gcruise,

How big is your real board?

If it is 9.25+ X 24, you're good to go!

A board that big may give you problems (cup, bow, twist, warp) be sure of good contact with the brass roller - ask Al.

[mtylerfl]

Hello,

I normally like to leave a little clearance for a cut path at the top edge of the board (at least 1/2" away from the top edge)...BUT, you'll probably be ok - main concern was that the cutting bit could hit the brass board sensor, but I think the software will "dodge" it if you are using the latest software version.

Ditto, that your actual board you place in the machine is at least 24" long, as Doc already pointed out. Using a board shorter than that will cause the board to leave the hold down rollers during the project run - fairly high risk of breaking your cutting bit - $40 wasted in a hurry - avoid it by using proper length.

The other option is use a sled that is at least 24" long and place your 17" long board on top of that with two 3½" scrap boards on each end, as I'm sure you already know). If you are running the project on rare or expensive wood, then you'll want to use a sled for sure to save the 7" of waste.

If the project is being run on just pine or poplar, I likely would use a 1x12x24" board (no sled)...i.e., nominal measurement .75" x 11.2" x 24" (actual length)

[seabass]

Out of habit I always design 1/2" off the edge and 3/4" off the edge on the brass roller side. I do have 1000's of board feet of lumber though, so I guess if you just do not have the lumber fine, but be careful.

I think in general a good design practice may be to leave the pattern off the edges. Sometimes I just use a wider board than is specified in the design and usually have no issues, it's the same effect as designing away from the edges.

[DocWheeler]

gcruise,

While eating, I got to thinking about what I wrote and came back to ammend my post - too late!

I should have added that I would have taped rails to the top and bottom.

[Woodhacker]

I am thinking you would be better off using a longer, wider board. Have attached a revised MPC to show you what I mean. Hope it helps.

[gcruise]

Good Morning All,
Thanks for all the info., it was very helpful. As to using a sled, what is the recommend way to attach the work piece? Work piece will be actual dimension of W 15.0" x H 9.0" x .750". (also have one that will be W 15.0" x 14.0" x .750") I am using pine to experiment but want to use oak, walnut and cherry in later carves. Thanks a ton for all the info.

Guy

[DocWheeler]

gcruise,

I'm not sure that LHR has fixed their problem with using a sled to cut-out anything over half inch thick, I would still recommend just using rails.

[wooden nickel]

Doc,
When i use asled ,i don't ever put anything in but the .75 thickness of my wood. When i set acutpath i enter about .002 or .003 over on each pass, iusually use three passes to protect my bit. I get a good cut every time.Ialso use sheetrock screws from the bottom corners,keeping them away from any carve area.

wooden nickel

[DocWheeler]

Doc,
When i use asled ,i don't ever put anything in but the .75 thickness of my wood. When i set acutpath i enter about .002 or .003 over on each pass, iusually use three passes to protect my bit. I get a good cut every time.Ialso use sheetrock screws from the bottom corners,keeping them away from any carve area.

My question is, do you answer to the prompt for the cutout "board" or "Project"?
And, I'm not sure of your 2-3 thousandths inch statement. And, does the firmware recognize these numbers now or are we still working in 128ths?