Victorian Tile

[Cavallo]

Also - the damned thing INSISTED on scaling again. I used a board 8" by 21", and doubled the tile lengthwise for a total of what should be 12". 12 + 7 should have been 19", but it STILL insisted on scaling to length. Rather than argue with the wretched creature I just let it go this time, but I have to get over this newb-hurdle of scaling things to hell.

[badbert]

Did it give you a third option? To ignore scaling?

[Cavallo]

Nope. I checked hopefully, but no such option was offered.

[eelamb]

Time to get back to the basics.
1) get the board you want. Lets say the board is 15.5x8x.75
2) in designer set up a new board of 7.5x7.5x.75
3) place the pattern on the designer board
4) upload to card
5) place board and card into cw, and turn it on.
6) select project you just designed and go through the normal steps to carve the board (answer no to stay under rollers). You do not have to carve the board, just testing the setup.

This process should give you a carving that does not ask for scaling, because the designer board is 8" shorter (3.5x2=7" I prefer 4x2=8"), and 0.5" greater in width.

Many make the the designer board the same size as the actual board, by adding the 3.5" to the designer board, but I prefer not to add this in designer. By making your actual board at least 3.5x2+.5= 7.5"( min, again I prefer 8"), and the width at least .5" greater than designer, you should have no problems.

My reason for the designer board the size I am designing, is for better layout. I do not have to worry about the extra lengths on each end. I mostly use a sled, thus eliminating the need for the extra length. See thread by Lawrence for a great sled construction.

[Cavallo]

If I'm understanding you correctly, then this is my eureka moment. It's not the size of the design that matters, it's the size of the virtual board in designer? If I had put my two 6x6 tiles side by side on a virtual board of 12x6, then I could have put a board of 20x6.5 in the machine, and all should have been well?

Whether or not this is correct, I will absolutely look into a sled. Thanks. Very helpful.

[badbert]

if i'm understanding you correctly, then this is my eureka moment. It's not the size of the design that matters, it's the size of the virtual board in designer? If i had put my two 6x6 tiles side by side on a virtual board of 12x6, then i could have put a board of 20x6.5 in the machine, and all should have been well?

eureka!!!

[Cavallo]

Wow. Was I ever overthinking. Or perhaps designer was underthinking. I kinda expected that the software would be smart enough to crop down to include only the region to actually be carved. I've been such a fool.

[eelamb]

You have it now. Just remember if you measure a board to be exactly 7" greater than the designer board, and the same width. The CW may not get the same reading as you. Call it slipping, or machine repeatability, which ever you prefer or who you work for, you are asking for a scaling problem if the machine measures the board smaller than you measured the board. So play it on the safe side, make the actual board larger as stated in my other post. Also why I use the 4" instead of 3.5", it give me room to play and less frustrations, or redesign time.

One more note, be sure to use masking tape on the under side of the actual board where the brass roller is at. This does cut down on tracking, and measuring errors.

[eelamb]

Here is the thread on the sled I mentioned.
http://forum.carvewright.com/showthr...highlight=sled

[Cavallo]

One more note, be sure to use masking tape on the under side of the actual board where the brass roller is at. This does cut down on tracking, and measuring errors.

Awesome info! I'm gonna need to start a notebook and keep it with the machine...