Animal puzzles. Can they be cut successfully on the CC ?

[TurtleCove]

I'm planning on purchasing the files that create these.
For the purchase, I will get the EPS and the DXF file.
From what I'm seeing in the photo's, it doesn't look like their examples, were cut with a laser, since I don't see any burnt edges.
Do you folks think I can achieve these results seen in the pics, with a 1/16" bit in the CC ?
How else would they be cutting these?

[Digitalwoodshop]

One option is to cut it without tabs and use the small circuit board bits along with a holder for the bit. I have not had any run out problems or vibration with the set screw chuck. I would set it up to leave a skin on the bottom of the board to hold all the little parts in place. After cutting you use masking tape or better, transfer tape on the top after blowing the dust off. Flip it and with a carrier sheet and some double stick tape, run it through a thickness sander or use a orbital sander to release the parts by sanding the skin off.

I would also lie to the machine and tell it you have a 1/4 inch bit installed but install the 1/16th circuit board end mill. This will lock the machine in the 1st gear feed rate.

I say use Circuit Board bits as they can be had on eBay cheap used and sharpened like this box for less than 10 bucks. You may snap a few bits and the LHR bit are much more expensive. It must be a end mill bit with a cutter on the bottom edge so it can plunge.

AL

[TurtleCove]

Is eBay listing 281428579376 what you're talking about ?

I have a wide belt sander, that should work well, the way you state.

I have the Rock Chuck. Will that work with those bits?. Also, I plan on making and using my own 1/8" and 1/4" maple, walnut and cherry, for this.

[TurtleCove]

And can our Designer software cut from EPS or DXF ?

[CW-HAL9000]

You have to buy the dxf converter software. It is separate and does not come with designer.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I have a rock chuck and use a roto Zip chuck to hold the little bits and it has worked for me. Yes, that is the eBay bits that will work in my opinion. In fact I bid on that auction but feel free to bid too. I bid 5.00 only and didn't plan to increase. He has a bunch of auctions with the similar bits. You could try smaller bits too but might snap them easier.

Again the trick is to set the bit to 1/4 inch and use the smaller bit to slow the feed rate.

Good Luck and no problem bidding on the auction.

AL

[Geomoo1]

I'm planning on purchasing the files that create these.
For the purchase, I will get the EPS and the DXF file.
From what I'm seeing in the photo's, it doesn't look like their examples, were cut with a laser, since I don't see any burnt edges.
Do you folks think I can achieve these results seen in the pics, with a 1/16" bit in the CC ?
How else would they be cutting these?

These are scroll saw puzzles.

[TurtleCove]

I have a rock chuck and use a roto Zip chuck to hold the little bits and it has worked for me. Yes, that is the eBay bits that will work in my opinion. In fact I bid on that auction but feel free to bid too. I bid 5.00 only and didn't plan to increase. He has a bunch of auctions with the similar bits. You could try smaller bits too but might snap them easier.

Again the trick is to set the bit to 1/4 inch and use the smaller bit to slow the feed rate.

Good Luck and no problem bidding on the auction.

AL

Al, I would think that if you told the machine you were using a 1/4" bit, and instead put in a 1/16" bit, the machine would register differently, since the center of each bit, is not the same. No?

[Digitalwoodshop]

I draw the vector lines using the 1/16th end mill bit in designer to get the location and fit. Then change the bit to 1/4 inch and your artwork gets FAT Lines but I don't worry about it... As I understand it, the machine is going to follow the center of the 1/16th inch line and that is what I see when I get the results.

But like anything new, it's trial and error to see.... I have been doing the peek-a-boo sled cutting all weekend in that big project and a few times as I watched the bit go to the first of 40 slots I have stopped the machine and pulled the sled and re aligned the piece on the sled. When you do this project, I would use place on end and set up a test block to have the machine cut first as a scrap that would be placed in the upper left corner of designer. Say a rectangle or circle leaving a skin on the bottom of the board. After the machine cuts the test block, I would pause the machine and try to pull it out.... Checking the skin thickness.... I believe postion will be less of a problem then getting the skin to work every time. If the wood does not have a skin, it will flop around and could snap the bit.

And I would also check the machine level too before you start.... Place a board in each side and touch a bit to the board using Z Sensor Data to read the position of the touch. As if you go with the skin method you will need to stay on top of maintenance including replacing the Y gearbox bearings before they wear out since you are working with such a small bit.

AL

[DickB]

I cut a puzzle like this on the Carvewright using 1/4" Baltic birch. One consideration is that you may have to adjust the with of the slots. I set them initially to 1/4" but they were too loose. I ran experiments with different widths to get the right amount of tightness when assembling the parts. You may need to alter the design or possibly use an offset on the cut path to get a good fit. If machining your own stock, you'll of course need to be precise on the thickness of the stock.