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Thread: I have managed to complete a few things

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Southern Delaware
    Posts
    1,046

    Default

    Really like the Winchester 94, paint job makes it look very realistic. Keep up the great work, sure the recipients appreciate.

    Rick H

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    294

    Default

    Sorry, I don’t have the cribbage boards anymore to take a picture but I can explain how I did it and share the mpc. The area for the drawer is cut out of the back of the board by the CW using a 3/16” cutting bit. After the carving is done and I get the cribbage board out of the wood, I cut 2 pieces of wood off the remaining scrap piece, one piece for the drawer front(cut this piece a little wide) and one to glue back on the bottom to cover the cutout for the drawer. I cut these out of the remaining scrap so I can match the grain. I take the piece for the bottom and cut it with my band saw so I have two pieces about 3/8” thick. I then hand fit one piece to the opening on the bottom and glue it on making sure it doesn’t extend into the area cut out for the drawer front. Make sure you wipe out any excess glue. After the glue dries you will need to use a wood chisel to square the corners in the cutout for the drawer front. For the drawer I take the piece cut out for the drawer front and use a hacksaw to cut a slot 1/16” deep across the flat side approximately ¼” from one edge. Then I take 1/64” plywood, bought at Ace Hardware, and cut out three pieces for the bottom and sides of the drawer. I glue the piece for the bottom into the slot cut into the piece for the drawer front. It has to be centered and square to the face. Once the glue is dry I hand fit the drawer face and bottom into the opening. When I’m satisfied with the fit I glue a 1/8” thick piece of scrap wood, cut for the size of the drawer back, on to the end of the plywood bottom. When that dries I glue the sides on. When the drawer is finished the bottom of the drawer front should be flush with the bottom of the cribbage board. The whole process is not as complicated as it sounds. After the drawer is finished I use a disc sander to sand the drawer front flush with the cribbage board sides and then run the bottom of the cribbage board thru my planer to get the glued on piece flush with the bottom. And one more thing, the mpc asks for a 1/8” drill bit when cutting the back side pattern. Ignore it and keep the 3/16” cutting bit. I don’t use a plunge router to cut a mortise for the drawer opening because I only have about 10% use of my right arm and hand and about 70% use of my left arm and hand. Makes it hard to use a plunge router. Hope this helps. If I can be of any assistance just ask.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    294

    Default

    The Winchester 94 is real.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Wylie, Tx
    Posts
    1,680

    Default

    I have a Winchester Model 1886 45-70 that belonged to my grandfather so I may try to make a display rack like that.

    Quote Originally Posted by chkorte View Post
    The Winchester 94 is real.
    JerryB:.

    CarveWright START U Team Member
    Using 1.187, Conform, PE/Probe, Centerline.

    "Let's start sharing PTNs instead of MPCs so ALL SW versions can view & share"

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