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Thread: Y Axis Stall

  1. #1

    Default Y Axis Stall

    So I'm carving away, all is good. Finished 6/7 parts. When the CW moved to the 7th part, it started running very rough. I'd seen this before, removed the cable from the drill head, pulled out the center cable and applied lube with moly. I dipped it back into the sheath a couple times and turned it until it was inserted back in the motor. When I reconnected the cable to the drill head, it ran for about 2 seconds and then shut off with a Y Axis stall message.

    So...thoughts?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brunswick, GA
    Posts
    8,123

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    Check all aspects of the Y axis mechanics...

    1) Motor (gear) shaft may be wearing down inside Y motor
    2) Debris somewhere along Y-belt
    3) Y-belt tension may be 'off' (loosen screw on Y clamp, allow belt to adjust itself, re-tighten screw
    4) Dirty Y rails
    5) Y belt missing a tooth
    6) Y Bearings may need adjusting (or they have sawdust that needs to be cleaned out)
    Last edited by mtylerfl; 05-21-2013 at 06:35 AM.
    Michael T
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Joined in 2010....

    Do you think the machine faulted because the Cut Motor was running ROUGH? IF so... Cut Motor Brushes last about 300 hours... We recommend replacement at about 250.... And OPEN and Clean the Dust out of the Cut Motor... When did you last change the Brushes?

    SO I am jumping on the band wagon that the Y Stalled due to the cut motor unless you tell me the cut motor was running fine...

    And you lubed the Flex... Sometimes the Flex outer un glues from the rubber ends and makes the outer LONGER and the inner Core Can't reach the Square Drive in the Truck....

    ALL Guesses....

    Need more info...

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  4. #4

    Default Here's what I did

    I relubed the cable, cleaned it thoroughly. I also ordered another of the cable assemblies, just in case I needed it ($75 but I guess I'll use it eventually) Still got a few error messages (Clear Board Sensor for example) but its carving away and doesn't sound like its trying to eat itself anymore. That's a good thing. Thanks for the help!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Sonora, CA
    Posts
    175

    Default

    My sympathies on the flex shaft issue...see my flex shft melt down post....it seems the flex shaft inner core needs to be lubricated a lot more often than the 100, 250 and 500 hours recommended by the manufacturer.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brunswick, GA
    Posts
    8,123

    Default

    Hmmm. This thread is slightly confusing...the OP stated he had Y-axis stall...yet, he lubed the flexshaft for some reason (which would have little or nothing to do with the Y-axis).

    Now there is mention about flex shaft melt - also nothing to do with Y-axis stall. Perhaps I'm the only one that finds this a bit of a puzzle.

    By the way, I have lubed the flexshaft twice in six years...no heating or melts ever...aside from no lube or improper lube, a common cause for overheating is usually from not seating the flexshaft properly after removal and reinsertion into the top hat. You should not need to lube the flex very often at all...and this still has nothing to do with the Y-axis))
    Last edited by mtylerfl; 05-25-2013 at 12:50 PM.
    Michael T
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
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    Didn't get an answer either on if the motor or flex caused the Y Stall...

    We could be chasing bad brushes but looking at the Y....

    And as for the flex.... If a Car Manufacturer posted.... Check the AIR in your tires every 2000 miles... would you complain if they needed air sooner... To me... Being aware of the condition of the flex by adopting the good habit of feeling the flex shaft at at least every project for heat buildup or at every bit change. I call it, petting the snake.... When after hundreds of cutting hours of doing this I feel the heat start to build up, I lube the flex shaft with a dime size dab in the middle of the flex... That is it... 1000's of Successful Hours of carving...


    It's the same with making it a habit of watching EVERY Bit Touch during a Bit Change... It would cut down on air carves that are the result of the bit not properly touching either the bit plate or board. IF we watch every time... We can start over when we see it fail usually due to dust and dirt on the rails or belt.... Good Habits make for more Carving.
    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brunswick, GA
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    Good advice and good analogies. Yes, I am still in the habit of 'palming' the flexshaft periodically during a carve. Some folks 'go a little crazy' and buy electronic thermometers (infrared?) but to each his own. If the flex starts to feel hot to the hand - time to check its condition and/or lube it. Pretty easy.

    Also, I'm in the habit about watching the bit touchdown. Anything unusual there would be cause for pause!
    Michael T
    Happy Carving!


    ═══ Links to Patterns & Resources for CompuCarve™ & CarveWright™ ═══

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    7,962

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtylerfl View Post
    Good advice and good analogies. Yes, I am still in the habit of 'palming' the flexshaft periodically during a carve. Some folks 'go a little crazy' and buy electronic thermometers (infrared?) but to each his own. If the flex starts to feel hot to the hand - time to check its condition and/or lube it. Pretty easy.

    Also, I'm in the habit about watching the bit touchdown. Anything unusual there would be cause for pause!
    Crazy is only one thing I get called ! If my palm touch does find the flex shaft warmer than normal then I will get out my $10 thermometer to check the actual temp. My "normal" range seems to be low 80s to low 90s. If I see it getting above the 95 range then I monitor it through out the rest of the carve. Up over 100 then it is a sign to clean and relube it. I have not lubed it for over a year now.

    Lubing the shaft on a "set schedule" could lead to over lubing and getting the top hat loaded with the run off...
    RingNeckBlues
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Nuevo, CA
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    I also don't understand what a Y problem has to do with the motor or flex shaft. For Y problems, turn the power off and move the Y truck feeling the rollers to be sure that they are turning. If the y are and there is drag, the bearings in the Y gear box need replacing. My B machine flex shaft always runs cool. I did replace the spacer spring last year. The C machine is running cooler as the Lube I use works it's way in. Could running rough be a dull bit problem?
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