I have seen anti-static, wire wound, smooth inside, clear vacuum hose but I cannot seen to find it again. I am thinking of something like this:
http://www.desihose.com/viewproduct.aspx?pid=139
I have seen anti-static, wire wound, smooth inside, clear vacuum hose but I cannot seen to find it again. I am thinking of something like this:
http://www.desihose.com/viewproduct.aspx?pid=139
I like the idea, the issue is the small diameter hose makes choices much more limited for flexibility as well as strength with a balance of lightweight
I am not sure how far you can put out the bit before the machine gags. I have gone really far and milled almost 1.8 inches deep with a 3/16 end mill. It was 2 or 2.5 inches out and my chuck almost touches the board. It gives a good hard push on the bit plate. Since you can only go 1 inch into the board and the top of the shoe is like 1/2 inch above the board, a little over 1.5" should be good. I do not think it will be a problem. How far does the carving bit usually protrude below the chuck?
I think that tip of the bit being 2.5 to 3 inches below the bottom of the truck is normal. Subtract the length of the Rock and what do you get?
Last edited by bergerud; 01-14-2013 at 08:10 PM. Reason: sp
I didn't mean to imply that I could only get 1/16" accuracy; just that is all my project required. I usually do better. No, probably can'y eyeball to 1/100th inch.
Here is the project that I just finished using jog to center. The two recesses at the far ends of the oval are to hold 1/2" dowels, and these will be secured with recessed screws from the back. 1/8" through holes were drilled from the back first, along with a recess for each hole for the screw head. On front, I drew a center line using the holes to determine the center width and measuring between the holes for center length. The 1/2" recesses were then drilled from the front, to align with the through holes from the back. I was actually spot on in the x direction and off just a bit in y, but of no consequence for this project.
front back front front
I would like to know more about your technique for the cube for times when I need better accuracy. How exactly did you set that project up?
With the sphere in the cube accuracy and consistency was extremely important. I is very difficult to fix the sphere if even one of the six carves is off. I made a jig into which a 2X2X2 inch cube snugly fits in from the top and is clamped from the front. The cube can be lifted out the top and flipped while the jig stays in the machine. It takes me awhile to set up the initial carve. Using scrap blocks, by trial and error, I find the coordinates corresponding to the center of the block face. After each test carve, I tweak the jog to coordinates from the keypad. (When it and asks to jog to center, I press numbers instead of the arrows.) Once I get a perfectly centered carve, I record the numbers. Now I put in the good wood and carve a pretty good sphere. I just keep using the same numbers. I actually will carve a few spheres once I have the numbers.
Once I remove the jig, turn off the machine, or abort the project, all is lost. It is possible, however, to carve different projects (ie. different face carves) with the same numbers. If for example, one wanted to make a set of alphabet blocks.
I have a friends machine with me and i will remove his CT truck to check it, but i want to get my shoe mounted and working for the rock first. also i found a flexible hose i want to test and if it works i will have to figure out where you can get some as it is designed for the HVAC industry.
Last edited by Sallen1215; 01-15-2013 at 05:49 PM. Reason: sp