2 problems with a carve.. need help...

[wgrecco]

To all,

Well I started out with only one problem I was going to ask you about but at the end of the carve, the machine went haywire and now I have TWO issues I need help with...

I had this carve and at the end when it started to route the ends of the board, the board was burnt where it was routed. So this was one issue.... this was the first time I had this issue... PHOTO 3 will show this..

THEN...

On the 2nd pass for the sides to be routed all of a sudden it went NUTS and started to route diagonally across the sign ruining the carve! See PHOTOS 1 & 2.

What would cause these two issues?

I will attach the MPC file to this post to review if that will help.

Thanks for all the anticipated help!
Wayne G.

[wgrecco]

I forgot to add the MPC file so here it is...

[AskBud]

1st, I hope your actual board was 24+ inches long, since your design is 17 inches.

2nd, it is best to use "max pass depth" (MCD) on the edge route. I suggest a MCD of .200. This way your final pass will clean up most flaws made by the first two passes. The heat may have loosened your bit to cause the diagonal cut as the machine ended its work.
AskBud

[mtylerfl]

Hello Wayne,

A few things to mention...

Edge routing can be risky...invites board tipping since true "raw edge" routing causes the board to leave the compression rollers on the ends. I prefer to...

a) Make the board BIGGER all the way around the layout, then let the machine route ON THE BOARD (inside the board edges), then cut away the excess with a Cut Path or on my table saw. Also, keep in mind that any route that goes across the entire width of a board will cause the pressure rollers to "dip" into the crevice and you'll have problems....be sure the board has about a 1/2" margin OUTSIDE (all the way around the perimeter) of the decorative route area.

b) This alternate method is a LOT easier... Let the CW carve your layout, then route the edges with your hand router or router table.


Regarding the problems you had...the burning could be due to lack of a multi-pass setting and/or the board tipping slightly causing stress on the bit...the mistracking where the route went across the board was due to the board losing contact with the brass tracking roller (or tracking was amiss due to the rollers dipping into a crevice), therefore spoiling the tracking data...not the machine's fault...the board left the pressure rollers, or the rollers dipped into a routed crevice which caused the error.

Hope that helps!

[wgrecco]

AskBud,

Yes my board was 24" in length. I always add the 7" to the total. Now as far as the MAX PASS DEPTH is concerned- you mention using a MCD of .200. Can I ask how you came up with this figure? Is there a formula, chart or something that tells me what that number should be based on the type of router bit I am using? So if I was using the 1/8 bit instead of the 3/16 one, would it still be .200 or something different?

Thanks for the help!
Wayne

[wgrecco]

Mtylerfl,

Thanks for your advice as well...

When you say make the board BIGGER around the layout, you are referring to the PHYSICAL board correct?

As for using a hand or table router, I have to admit I have a table router and used it like twice. Both times I used it were NIGHTMARES! The bit broke, the wood was burning, and I just couldnt figure out how to do it right... I know you cant move the board too fast or too slow but UGGGGG!!!! lol.. I would love to be able to master that and then route the signs on the table and save my CW from the task.

Wayne

[AskBud]

AskBud,

Yes my board was 24" in length. I always add the 7" to the total. Now as far as the MAX PASS DEPTH is concerned- you mention using a MCD of .200. Can I ask how you came up with this figure? Is there a formula, chart or something that tells me what that number should be based on the type of router bit I am using? So if I was using the 1/8 bit instead of the 3/16 one, would it still be .200 or something different?

Thanks for the help!
Wayne

Mtylerfl,
Thanks for your advice as well...
When you say make the board BIGGER around the layout, you are referring to the PHYSICAL board correct?
As for using a hand or table router, I have to admit I have a table router and used it like twice. Both times I used it were NIGHTMARES! The bit broke, the wood was burning, and I just couldnt figure out how to do it right... I know you cant move the board too fast or too slow but UGGGGG!!!! lol.. I would love to be able to master that and then route the signs on the table and save my CW from the task.
Wayne

With almost any fancy bit, I want the cut to be a clean as possible. It makes no difference whether you are using the CW or router (with or without a table). I find that making several lighter passes is much better. I go no more than .250 per pass, but prefer .200 most of the time. I want my last pass to be about .50 as a "cleaning" cut. Your experience with the table mounted router, is your warning of what to expect on the CW.

The key is that the more material you try to mill, at one time, the more pressure and heat you produce.
AskBud
AskBud

[mtylerfl]

Mtylerfl,

Thanks for your advice as well...

When you say make the board BIGGER around the layout, you are referring to the PHYSICAL board correct?

The layout AND the physical board size need to be increased if you use the technique I outlined previously. See the photo and the MPC to see how it's done. (I laid it out to fit on a standard 1x8 board...i.e., the fake board dimensions are .75" x 7.20" x 19"...your REAL board would be .75" x 7.25"-ish x 26" (I placed a Cut Path too, so that the CW will cut out the plaque at the very end...you can remove the Cut Path if you plan to cut it out on your table saw instead. The Cut Path has a 0.3" Max Pass...sorry...habit...you don't need that...you can do a "full-depth" cutout instead...there's only about a 1/4" stock thickness remaining after the decorative route! )

(NOTE: The lettering is very small...not sure if that's going to carve well or not...I suggest you do a test carve of just a portion of the lettering sample before using your "good wood".EDIT: Never mind about the font...the font on my end was swapped for another...I looked at your previous photos of your carve...looks like your font carved fine.)

As for using a hand or table router, I have to admit I have a table router and used it like twice. Both times I used it were NIGHTMARES! The bit broke, the wood was burning, and I just couldnt figure out how to do it right... I know you cant move the board too fast or too slow but UGGGGG!!!! lol.. I would love to be able to master that and then route the signs on the table and save my CW from the task.

Wayne

Normally the table should work just fine. Direction of cut, amount of material taken, type of wood all come into play. From your description, I suspect taking several shallow cuts would do fine...or just use your hand router...easy/fast.

Let us know how you make out.

[Digitalwoodshop]

To me it looks like a X problem with the board loosing contact with the brass roller... It is even possible that with such a BIG bit and the depth of cut that the side pressure on the board pushed the board away from the brass roller.... Could be the head pressure is too light coupled with the side force of the BIG bit.... Once the board moved away from the brass roller the board will drive in the X Direction and with that carving depth I bet the machine made quite a racket......

My opinion.... FORGET Edge and Cross Cut Functions.... They are always RISKY and a waste of machine warranty time. Use the best tool for the best job.... Use the CW for what it does BEST....

I bet if you delete the edge and cross cut if it has it and run the machine it will do fine....

AL

[wgrecco]

Gentlemen,

Again thanks for all your help and input. I have been busy so havent had a chance to try this project again but as soon as I do, I will let you know how I make out with your tips and reworked MPC. THANKS!!

Wayne