Sliding Guide Plate Question

[Ken Massingale]

I've seen several suggestions to set the SGP so that it isn't in contact with the stock, seems 1/8" away from the stock has been suggested several times.

If the SGP isn't supposed to contact the stock, what good is it? I see that it shouldn't be so tight as to cause binding as the workpiece moves, but to me, if the SGP is 1/8" from the workpiece it may as well be 6" away.

I'm not trying to be a smart alec, I just don't understand.
Thanks
k

[Eagle Hollow]

I've seen several suggestions to set the SGP so that it isn't in contact with the stock, seems 1/8" away from the stock has been suggested several times.

If the SGP isn't supposed to contact the stock, what good is it? I see that it shouldn't be so tight as to cause binding as the workpiece moves, but to me, if the SGP is 1/8" from the workpiece it may as well be 6" away.

I'm not trying to be a smart alec, I just don't understand.
Thanks
k

Yes, Ken, I agree. I've always set the plate just to the piece. Only once have I had an issue because of a piece that wasn't the same width end to end. I caught it as it was being measured, shut down and ran the piece through the table saw and was good to go.

Jerry
1.126

[hotpop]

Ken,

I found that the Guide Plate is a necessary item on my machine. A couple of weeks ago I removed mine to run some 15" x 48" Signfoam. During the measuring process I noticed board crept about 3/16" away from the front rail after the board traveled its full length.

I cut my boards down to 14 1/2" reinstalled the rear guide plate. No more problem.

[bjbethke]

Ken Massingale,

The 1/8” spacing of the Sliding Glide Plate is Maxxam spacing.

The machine uses this plate to measure the board for a cutout.

If you have a spacing more than 1/8”, and if the tracking of the sand paper drive belt is perfect. It may carve the board OK, if you are not using the cutout function.

I always check my carving board for binding when I install a board.

[mtylerfl]

I do use the sliding guide plate. However, I noticed on both my machines that the sliding plate is NOT exactly parallel to the stationary left guide.

If I stand in "front" of the machine (where the plastic lid is) if I push the sliding plate completely tight against a board (which is not normally done), the end of the plate closest to my body is tight against the board, while the end farthest away has an ever-so-slight gap (maybe slightly more than a 1/16 of an inch).

Initially, I thought I needed to make an adjustment to the plate. However, whether it is by design or not, I realized that it may actually help prevent board binding if I left it as-is. So, I left it alone on both machines.

In actual practice, when I place a board into the machine, I slide the plate against the board, then ease it slightly away so there is a very small "gap". Then I manually slide the board through, to and fro, to verify there is no binding. Jeff Birt mentioned he uses a folded piece of paper to "gauge" his slight gap. I haven't use any folded paper myself, but the principle is the same. You do NOT want the sliding plate too tight against the board!

My thinking is that the plate still serves a purpose of "guiding" the board if it wanders a little, but allows for a small variance in board width (without binding) it as it moves along through the machine.

Once, I completely forgot to slide the plate over to the board at all, and noticed my mistake about halfway through a project. I let the project continue while monitoring it. The board tracked just fine throughout the completion of the project, but feel I may have been "lucky".

[Kenm810]

I’ve also seen the suggestions of 1/8" away from the stock and think
it only adds to the confusion of our members on how to use the Sliding Guide Plate.
The Machine Manual states to Gently push the sliding plate up against the inside edge of the
work piece. DO NOT push the sliding plate against the work piece
with significant force. The sliding plate is used to guide the
work piece and is not intended to lock the piece in position.
At this point it is critical to assure that the work piece can travel
freely in and out of the machine along its entire length without
binding or encountering significant drag. Do this by moving the
work piece in and out of the machine by hand while it is lying flat on
the traction drive Belts. ---It all make sense and works very well for me.

[Jeff_Birt]

Ken is exactly right about the correct procedure. I suggest using paper as a spacer as it eliminates the guess work as to what the difference is between 'gently' and 'significant source'.

[Router-Jim]

I agree with Ken about following the manual. One has to keep in mind that there are users out there that are new to woodworking. They might buy a board at the Home Depot and expect it to be dimensionally true. If they follow the manual and gently slide the plate over and manually assure that the piece moves freely from end to end, then they should be alright.

Personally every board that goes in my machine gets jointed on the keyboard side and cut to width on the TS. I've never experienced a problem with the guide plate.


Jim

[twinpeaksenterprises, LLC]

I make sure my board is perfectly square, snug up the guide plate and move the board to check for binding. I was uncertain also about the guide plate actually serving a purpose but it could help out say if you werent staying under the rollers and there was a slight deviation as the board moves throught the rollers. Now i have had a problem with snipe during edge route which i dont do often on this machine but i related its cause to deviation of the board because it was not snug on the guide plate. When guide plate was snug there was no snip and when it wasnt there was snipe. Thats just my experience with it.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I think some are missing the point of the axillary function of the sliding right guide. When ever you use a 1/8 inch cutting bit to drill a hole or use the cut path function you will see the 1/8 inch bit go to the U shaped cutout in the right guide and duck down in that hole. It then moves right slightly and touches the bit on the metal of the right guide to DETERMINE BOARD THICKNESS. Use only a carving bit or V 60/90 bit only and it never touches the right rail.

I believe I saw something in the Sand Paper Belt replacement procedures from LHR about adjusting the Right Guide Parallel when replacing it after changing belts or gears.

And 1/8 inch is what I use, never letting the board touch the right guide.

My 2 Cents,

AL