Clear boartd sensor

[STEAM]

Breaking the bits makes me wonder if you are using too thin a material or too hard a material. What are you using?

Like Jeff said... rollers.... If the material is too thin then the rollers don't change states...

AL

I broke the cutting bit Saturday. That was a piece of poplar. I am pretty sure that I just didn't have it seated in the chuck properly. The carving bit I broke yesterday on a piece of 3/4 inch red oak from Home Depot. It was about 1/3 into the carving when it dove into the board and flew out. The carving up to that point was terrible. The wood just wasn't good quality to carve. I wont be using that type again. I have about a weeks wait on my new bits so I'm going to spend the time learning the software and designing some patterns.

Also both boards that have run out of the machine were either 3/4" or 1/2". I should state that the board has stayed under the back roller (compressed). The machine stops at that point and gives the clear sensor error.(After the board has cleared the sensor but still under the back roller)
If I hit enter at that point it just continues the board all the out of the machine.

[JOHNB]

(QUOTE)-The carving bit I broke yesterday on a piece of 3/4 inch red oak from Home Depot. It was about 1/3 into the carving when it dove into the board and flew out. The carving up to that point was terrible. The wood just wasn't good quality to carve.
THAT'S NOT BECAUSE OF THE WOOD, BUT I'M SURE IT HAS TO DO WITH THE Z-MOTOR.

[RC Woodworks]

John, I agree with you sounds like the Z truck. My # 2 machine is plunging the bit right through the board. Is your machine making a different noise like the alliens are landing! A choppy sound and your carving was very chippy? If so it will be a matter of time when it will goe out.

The other thing you might check to see if your bit chuck came loose.

Rick

[STEAM]

John, I agree with you sounds like the Z truck. My # 2 machine is plunging the bit right through the board. Is your machine making a different noise like the alliens are landing! A choppy sound and your carving was very chippy? If so it will be a matter of time when it will goe out.

The other thing you might check to see if your bit chuck came loose.

Rick

OK. First things first. This is going to show my ignorance of the CW but how can I tell if the bit chuck is loose?

Second. I finally had time to remove the board sensor. Of course the directing cover was broke. That I already knew. When I removed the sensor I found that one of the screw eyelets was crushed. To me it looks like the screw may have been over tightened. Do any of you know if they use a torque wrench when they install these? I'm just curious.
I can see how it may have been causing edge problems if it was not correctly aligned. Also I see now why you have to clean them out so often. The opening to the receiver is very small. I understand why they designed it the way it is but I would think there is a better way to go about it. If they would seal the housing better it would greatly help with the dust problem. (like I'm the first to think of that Right??) Also fiber optics in the receiver channel might help. Sorry... I'm starting to ramble on.

Any way thanks for the input. I am going to check how well my bits are seating and check the chuck.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Fiber optics was mentioned months ago. Omron makes a few with fiber optics detectors, I worked with then at Sony.

Loose bit chuck.... Recommend contact rjustice who sells a great wrench and square drive adapter that will make changing the chuck a lot more fun.... Need a hair dryer to heat chuck before removing due to the Lock Tite. Use the wrench to check tightness.

Since your asking questions, things I recommend you buy and have on hand.

1 replacement Quick Chuck
1 Set of Sand Paper Belts or more (save on shipping next time.)
1 X 1st stage gear for the sand paper drive.

2 Cut Motor Brushes at 250 hours.

Beats waiting a week....

If your chuck gets worn replace it.... See photos below.... The damage to the middle one was from just 1 hour of use. Ruined 4 bit holders.... Worn replace it.... Or you will pay extra as you will destroy bit holders. Since I changed the worn chuck I have not had another damaged bit holder. Pay now or Pay MORE later..... See the indentation in the center of the center bit.

AL

[RC Woodworks]

OK. First things first. This is going to show my ignorance of the CW but how can I tell if the bit chuck is loose?

Second. I finally had time to remove the board sensor. Of course the directing cover was broke. That I already knew. When I removed the sensor I found that one of the screw eyelets was crushed. To me it looks like the screw may have been over tightened. Do any of you know if they use a torque wrench when they install these? I'm just curious.
I can see how it may have been causing edge problems if it was not correctly aligned. Also I see now why you have to clean them out so often. The opening to the receiver is very small. I understand why they designed it the way it is but I would think there is a better way to go about it. If they would seal the housing better it would greatly help with the dust problem. (like I'm the first to think of that Right??) Also fiber optics in the receiver channel might help. Sorry... I'm starting to ramble on.

Any way thanks for the input. I am going to check how well my bits are seating and check the chuck.

TT, you will know the bit chuck is loose by the sound it makes and checking by hand. If you are to un screw by hand it is loose. The only way I could tighten it was by removing the flex shaft and with an allen wrench and a pair of channel locks. It does have a nut you can tighten, but you need a thin wrench. I was in a pinch and needed my CC for the fair I was working so I found an allen wrench that was the same size as the flex cable and used the channel locks.

I too have the board sensor problem, using redwood it has a fine dust. I pull my sensor it was loaded with dust. Plus the screws seemed loose. I use compressed air when I don't have time to pull the sensor and it works.

Rick

[hunkeydorey]

Anyone know how to isolate the "Please check your board" errors?

My first project is on hold because on unresolved "board errors" using my 1/2" ball nose bit to route grovess in the side boards of a new coffee table. It is a piece of 2"W, 3/4"D, and 17"L hard Maple. The first three went AOK except I noticed that the software did two long passes for the first board and on the subsequent boards just used one heavier pass. In fact, I got an overload possible error which I ignored thinking it was the hard maple.

It was on my fourth board that the system went south. Arggghhh!

So far, I have tried four different boards, gone through all trouble shooting; e.g. the sensor checks, X, Y, Z checks, and blew out the sensors with no noticeable help. I also reloaded my project via software from my PC just in case to no avail. I really do not want to throw parts at the problem until I am certain they will fix the problem (old CPU specialist). I also realize that engineering and service did not get the build in diagnostics needed to identify the root issues.

Anyone have any ideas for a next step?

Sorry to ramble on but hope the data helps.

Newbie hunkeydorey

[badger]

(QUOTE)-The carving bit I broke yesterday on a piece of 3/4 inch red oak from Home Depot. It was about 1/3 into the carving when it dove into the board and flew out. The carving up to that point was terrible. The wood just wasn't good quality to carve.
THAT'S NOT BECAUSE OF THE WOOD, BUT I'M SURE IT HAS TO DO WITH THE Z-MOTOR.

Same thing to me, same wood but my bit didnt fly out the very tip of it just broke off. Noticed it had carved about 1/3 and by the time I noticed it all it was doing was just barely reaching the surface of the wood and not even leaving a mark on it. Figured then I needed a new bit. Too bad on a Friday since I ordered it, it wont shipped til at least Mon or Tues now.

[STEAM]

I checked the bit chuck for tightness and it seems to be in good shape. I really think that I didn't have the bit seated properly. I also hadn't checked the screws holding the bit in the adapter. They may have been loose. While the machine was carving it sounded normal, No whines or clunking. I am just going to mark it off as inexperience. I received my replacement bits today and the new board sensor should be here tomorrow. This time I am going to make sure everything is correct and tightened like it should be. If it still dives into the wood I will contact LHR about the z-motor. I really hope its not that. I have only been able to do 1 project before breaking the bits and the sensor problem. It's like being a kid with a new toy and being told you can look at it but you cant play with it yet!

[william feador]

I know I am taking this off topic, but I could not resist...



<This is mostly about industrial sensors, but applies to any optical sensor>
While LED's do last 100,000 hours or more their output intensity falls over this time period to a point where they are no longer usable. Although the photo-diode/photo-transistor in the receivers can/will degrade over time (more likely chemical or mechanical damage to the housing though), when you install a new receiver only it works as there is no damage to the housing, even though the LED is weak. The least little bit of housing damage and the weak LED is no longer sufficient to drive the receiver. You wind up having to replace receivers a lot as the transmitters are weak. It's been my experience that they are best replaced in pairs. YMMV...

These parts can also be temperature dependent. That's part of the reason why LHR recommends a minimum environmental temperature for the machine. Dollars to donuts we see more board sensor related problems this winter

Is their a test or the sensor that I missed. I have taken the sensor out cleaned it several times but still get clear board sensor. I do order a new one and how much? I would pefer a mailing address instead of going over the net. thanx.