Possible solution for chuck sticking

[Lin]

I discovered something this evening. I have ran just a few projects thru my CW so far. I built the downdraft after the first short test carve and after the second test I lubed the flex cable...It was quite warm to the touch during the second test. Setting up this week-end to do a longer carving and will do a draft in pine before I try out some of the pecan I have for the real thing. I didn't really have a lot of issue with the chuck the first few carvings...but it was sticking. I oiled it and it did seem to get a bit easier to operate. That was last week-end and I just now checked it and couldn't hardly get it to move to accept the bit...What I did discover and maybe everyone else here already knows...while using my left hand compressing the chuck like it says in the manual with the thumb guide...if I place my index finger of my right hand inside the chuck and turn it inside a bit counter clock wise the chuck compresses full up every time to accept the adapter.
Is that a trade secret that I accidently came across or is that the way it suppose to work and I missed that post?
Might help someone else that is having issues with the chuck.
Lin

[pamjmayo]

I've never heard of this and am very anxious to try it when I run into the problem again. Thanks, hope this is a secret fix. Pam

[Ilonaco]

My problem was just the opposite. I have been using my CW a week. I found problems when I tried to seat the 1/16th carving bit. The holders were "dinged" when I received them from CW. I bought the full set, and they were all fine. If the groove is not clear, it appears that the bit will not seat.

[Paul Elliott]

After receiving the CompuCarve about 6 weeks ago I finally found time to take it for a test run several times this week. About 6 hours worth.
Excellent machine, Excellent output quality.

Only complaint so far is having to use the "Index Finger" method to fully open the chuck. Not a show stopper but when a project consists of 3 different bits I have to wait for chuck to cool down before I can put my finger in it and turn it to insert the next bit. Hopefully CarveWright will address this in the future.

I found that applying T9 with a Q-Tip sometimes leaves cotton strands in the chuck. My wife bought me a package of 10 sponge tipped eyeliner applicators for 69 cents. They work great and will last me for years. I keep the used ones in a baggie and they stay soft and reusable. They can be found in the makeup department in drug stores. My wife bought them at CVS but she said she saw them at K-Mart also.

[Kenm810]

Quote- I found that applying T9 with a Q-Tip sometimes leaves cotton strands in the chuck.

Hi Paul,
I made the switch to the sponge tipped eyeliner applicators a few months ago, but didn’t want to admit I was using them in my shop. I use the black ones for touch ups in painting and finishing, and, ahmmm, the pink ones with the T-9 in the Quick Chuck; they show up the dirt and dust better. And like you, I store them in a zip-lock bag. Gads I’m glad I not the only one.

[fbridgeford]

That's kind of weird.
When I got mine (granted it's a CompuCarve), it came with this handy dandy little wrench type tool. I've attached some pics since I really don't know how to describe this little gem.

It makes it pretty darn nice to remove a bit during a project; yeah...they get HOT!

It has nice little "ledges" to slip right into the bit collet & with a little practice, it slips right in to release the chuck completely from the cut head.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Paul,

If your Quick Chuck is TOO hot to handle after a carving then you have bad spindle bearings that are causing heat and you feel it at the Chuck.... The only time my Chuck has ever been too hot to touch is when I have a hair dryer heating the Blue Thread Lock to change the Chuck....

If you have a Digital Thermometer give us some numbers but if you don't.... I would call LHR and if it is still IN Warranty get it on it's way. Bad bearings will only get warmer....

Bad bearings CAN be caused by over lubrication of the flex shaft and the excess oil interferes with the bearings ability to rotate causing heat and bearing failure. And other reasons like a bad Quick Chuck wobbling.

Had a case of ALMOST Spontaneous Combustion working out on my deck with stain. Got a call from Heather and left a unfinished project and a balled up stain rag. Went to lunch and came back.... Picked up the rag and it was way too hot to handle... It was about to burst into flames.... SO heat in a WOOD SHOP..... Needs to be looked into....

Good Luck,

AL

[mtylerfl]

Hello,

I was sittin' here a little puzzled by the "hot bit" statements. I have never noticed my bits getting hot at all - no problem handling/changing bits with bare hands immediately after they lift from the board. Most of my carves average between 2 to 4 hrs., with no "too-hot-to-touch-bits" - warmish-yes...hot-no.

Thanks, Al for explaining a possible cause of "hot bits" scenerio some folks are experiencing.

[Paul Elliott]

Hey Al,

The outside of the chuck is just warm and so is the bit. Bit comes out easily. Problem is getting the chuck fully open. Have to put index finger inside chuck and push hard to fully release chuck to insert the next bit.

Digital thermometer shows heat ranging from 88 - 95. I'm assuming that's withing the norm.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I hear that they have a slightly redesigned chuck to take care of the binding problems. Give LHR a call. 800-573-1226

Thanks,

AL