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Thread: white corian

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Seacoast NH
    Posts
    187

    Default Markings

    Hi Mt

    Black Markings can be removed with (rubbing alchol or light sanding 220 grit) Ive also used counter top magic and Glass stove top cleaner (The Gritty Stuff kinda like Sand Soap) If you can see the Mill Marks in it you are better of to sand with 220 grit until smooth (flat) as you will see lines when backlit. Pretty hard to sand after its carved. Without hitting carve..
    Good luck carving !!!!

    Did you buy a whole sheet?? Or peices .
    Where Did you find ?and if you dont mind me asking cost??
    Thank You
    If A Picture is worth 1000 words
    "A MPC is worth a 1,000,000 Questions"
    Dave

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brunswick, GA
    Posts
    8,123

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave-Carve View Post
    Hi Mt

    Did you buy a whole sheet?? Or peices .
    Where Did you find ?and if you dont mind me asking cost??
    Thank You
    Hello Dave,

    Got the Corian sheets from ebay.

    I purchased 12 sheets (1/4" x 11.75 x 13.5) of Glacier White Corian for $51.50 including shipping.

    Also bought 9 sheets of Cameo White and 9 sheets of Bone White (1/4" x 8.25" x 30"). These 18 sheets cost $170.00 including shipping.
    Michael T
    Happy Carving!


    ═══ Links to Patterns & Resources for CompuCarve™ & CarveWright™ ═══

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Yooper now SW Michigan
    Posts
    560

    Default

    Nice job with the back light corian, photos look gastly carved in wood but return to their proper representation once used to filter light.
    now that I have a few pieces I will try one.
    I made many light box's for photo's and slot machine belly glass (another hobby) and I use lights of America 8 watt florescent bulbs. they stay cool behind enclosures. About $22 for a 3 pack.
    Mike G
    Custom wood working, etc, www.gmanind.com

  4. #44
    pamjmayo Guest

    Default Light Boxes

    G-Man, you've brought up a great interest. Do you sell the light boxes you make? If not, can you show us a picture of what they look light? Thanks, Pam

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Yooper now SW Michigan
    Posts
    560

    Default Yes I sell these, on occasion ;)

    I do sell on Ebay the billiards one. not to profitable so knock yourselves out. I make the frames using Stile and rail set and cut the lip off to get the plastic in. Kreg pocket holes and screws to assemble.
    Lights of America, under cabinet lights, linkable, I get mine in 3 pack from local Meijer, about $22 for three pack.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails PC080337.JPG   PC130344.JPG   PC130340.JPG  
    Last edited by Gman_Ind; 07-23-2007 at 02:29 PM.
    Mike G
    Custom wood working, etc, www.gmanind.com

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Pasadena, Ca
    Posts
    109

    Talking Light Box Frames

    Hey G Man,
    What size and type of wood do you use to make your light box frames?

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Elwood, IL
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ruggybear View Post
    Doc,

    When I got the good results the front surface was carved and the backlight was applied to the flat rear surface. I am still trying to understand the reason for the double inversion. I think that changing the original RGB file to a Grayscale (GS) file and importing that into designer should work and eliminate the two invert steps. However, there may be some underlying technical reason for inverting in photoshop, importing into designer and then inverting again that I do not understand. Just learning more about the technique.
    I have been reading, trying to get a feel for doing a photo, etc on any form of plastic, etc. I think the picture inversion is because he carved on the reverse side of what he is viewing thus, giving him a smooth front surface and the image "off in the distance", then backlit. I don't think a double invert is needed. One or the other if you carve so the front remains smooth. I'm still cautious ...... I'll take the plunge soon ... more reading to do.

    adoni
    "Life is short, so learn from your mistakes, and stand behind, the choices that you make,
    Face each day with both eyes open wide, and try to give, don't keep it all inside"
    The Answer Lies Within - Dream Theater

  8. #48
    pamjmayo Guest

    Default light boxes

    G-Man, How about a quote on lightboxes for 8X10 corian. I'm going to market the carvings in Corian in my area and I sure could use a good source for them?
    By the way, what is the Stiles set you are talking about. Is it ready made? How do you hook up the lights? Have you got a picture of one that I could see?

    Oh, I forgot, I can always look on e-bay. Not to worry, I don't want to build light boxes. HA! Pam

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Yooper now SW Michigan
    Posts
    560

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CustomWestCoast View Post
    Hey G Man,
    What size and type of wood do you use to make your light box frames?
    I have used oak, MDF and Aspen for the frames. 3/4" frame and 1/2" for the light box's. any wood will work, just depends what your finished project will be. I had request for inexpensive paint grade box's so a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" MDF will make a pile of frames, a big plus is after sanding the glue seams disappear in the MDF.
    One thing to consider when making the light box's is what light source your using then be sure to design around it so you can fit it in your box.
    Mike G
    Custom wood working, etc, www.gmanind.com

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Pasadena, Ca
    Posts
    109

    Default Light Box Lighting

    I made a couple of Lithophanes out of 6x8x 1/4" Corian. The carved image measured 5x7". For the frame I used 3/4" Oak. I used a carve region of 6x8 with a depth of 0.250 inches. I then used a cut path for the picture window set at 5x7".

    As for the lighting, using an incandecent light bulb produces a hot spot behind the Lithophane. The best lighting to use is fluorescent. It does not produce a hot spot and does not produce much heat.

    I found a puck type fluorescent light fixture that was small enough to fit in the light box. It is manufactured by a company called Feit Electric. It is a 9 watt flurescent light. The housing measures 3 inch in diameter and a depth of 1 1/2 inches. It comes with a 5 ft electrical cord that has an on/off switch. If you have a large project, you can daisy chain three lights together.

    The prices vary depending on where you find them. The cheapest price that I have found was on Walgreens.com The have them listed at $9.99 each for the single light fixture.

    I have contacted the company that produces the lights. I was told that you are required to have a resale license. I was also told that the minumum order required is a "master case". A "master case" is 144 lights. The price from the manufacturer is $5.99 each.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Feit2.jpg  

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