Member
Member
z goes up and down
x and y go back and forth. z goes up and down when it works right.
Happy carving,
Gary
It's not a hammer, it's a microadjuster!
Member
Almost final resolution...
After "playing" with the chuck for hours, I gave up and called Carvewright today. Spoke to a few very friendly people, and they're sending me a new "QC". As long as I don't have any problems getting the old one off, I should be a fairly happy camper once it arrives.
Thank you Carvewright! Great service.
Senior Member
I am still using the Teflon dry film lube. I 'dry fire' the empty collet buy snapping it a few times to dislodge sawdust. I now just use my fingers to remove the collet.
Mike G
Custom wood working, etc, www.gmanind.com
Junior Member
take off the hat
I DONT KNOW IF YOU'RE AWARE OF IT OR NOT BUT TAKE OFF THE TOP HAT OF THE Z-TRUCK TO BE SURE YOU GOT A GOOD FIT WITH YOUR LITTLE SQ. ALLEN WRENCH. I HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH REMOVING MINE...Originally Posted by BearlyRich
Junior Member
Chuck lube
As alot do, I clean mine quite frequently. The only (and unauthorized) lube I use on the QC is Remington gun oil. Just a spritz on the chuck, a light rub of my finger up inside and that's it. I can remove and replace the QC by hand. I just figured if it's good enough for my 1911 and M14, its good enough for my CC.
Member
Thanks JohnB. We'll see what happens when it gets here.
Funny, they asked me on the phone if I tried lubing it with 3in1. Maybe that's semi authorized? I've always been fond of Marvel "Mystery Oil". Not only like the smell bubt if it doesn't burn up in an auto engine cylinder, it's gotta be good stuff. Beyond that I also like the Rem oil and Ballistol. I would just hate using something that at some point may do damage or void a warranty?
I did the molly spray for the flex shaft and that seemed to help a little bit. I've also read that no lube should be used near or on the bearings. I'm not sure about that? Sure, fine for a new machine but what about a hundred or two hours later? Another thing to worry about when I get there...
Member
Anyone for a little more help or suggestions?
Carvewright was very fast at getting the new chuck to me and I finally had the chance of trying to install it tonight. No luck...
Even though they did NOT include the wrench or instructions as they said they would, I did come up with a square "wrench" and have the big wrench for the Sear Quickrout kit. I applied torque to the chuck to the point where I was afraid I would break something. I could feel the wrench starting to give a bit and knew any more would hurt something. I tried heating the chuck with a heat gun, but only a little heat. Didn't help...
Then I spent the last hour reading through all the old posts about removing the chuck. Seems noone else has had much of a problem, with heat being the final removal tool.
My question is, how much heat? That collar around the chuck is not metal. I would really like to not destroy it in getting the old chuck off, so I don't want to melt it. Plus there's a sensor nearby and the bearings above it. Any clues as to how much I can really heat the chuck up to or maybe a better way than a heat gun? I sure don't want to have to send this thing in just for a chuck...
Thanks for any suggestions...
Senior Member
BR,
You will need a good 5 to 10 min at med heat, just on the QC. Wrap the truck with a wet rag if you can. The heat will transfer up the shaft and bingo!.
Just one drop of Lock tight on the QC when re-installing.
I put way to much LT last time, and had a devil of a time removing it.
LG
Member
5 to 10 minutes. Wow, okay. I didn't dare heat it that long when I tried but will hit it again as soon as I get the chance. And that's great advice about the wet wrap. I didn't think of that and I used to weld/braze auto body panels...
I will certainly give a very light "one drop" of LT when reassembling
Thanks!
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