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Thread: slipping material

  1. #41
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    Do you think that its related to uneven head heights?

    measured HEAD HIGHER THAN POST.
    LF .011"
    RF .014"
    RR .043"
    LR .032"

    I replaced the power supply and updated the firmware. Thanks again for the advice. I did read that text on sta
    ll in the manual. Im working on the head height adjustment now

  2. #42
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    Lower the head down so that it is about 3" below the flats on the corner post. Then measure from the top of the head to the lower flat shoulder. You only need to measure on the right side (clear cover) key pad and bit plate end of the machine.

    To adjust the heights (level), lay the machine on its side to remove the bottom cover. Next loosen (no need to remove) the screws that hold the tie rod with the bevel gears that meet up to the lead screw gears. Loosen enough so that the bevel gears are free from the lead screw gears. Return the machine to the up right position.

    Next, using the hole in the lead screw on the bit plate end of the machine, turn the lead screw to either raise or lower the head on that end to match the height of the head on the key pad end. When making this adjustment the head on the key pad end should not raise or lower.

    Once you have the head leveled lay it over and re tighten the screws for the tie rod but leave them loose enough so that there is a small amount of play/movement in the tie rod. There needs to be enough play in order for the head to be raised or lowered.
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  3. #43
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    after lowering head to about 3", I measure difference from right side front to rear .013"... l3ss than 1/32".

    do I still need to adjust the head level?

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_skeptic View Post
    after lowering head to about 3", I measure difference from right side front to rear .013"... l3ss than 1/32".

    do I still need to adjust the head level?

    I would say no you do not.
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  5. #45
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    Would you know what wattage the resistors are on the attached module? The wires attached to the power supply just fell out with very little stress when I was looking at it. I had replaced the power supply and maybe the module. This might be part of the reason for the y axis stall, but I'll continue to look..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1.pdf  

  6. #46
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    RingNeckBlues
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  7. #47
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    this is what Im after, but dont know the current and voltage on that circuit yet

    https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws...tor/res_7.html

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_skeptic View Post
    this is what Im after, but dont know the current and voltage on that circuit yet

    https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws...tor/res_7.html

    The only thing that I have referenced for resistors is the color coding like in the link I posted.

    Maybe DigitalAl will jump in.. I will send a note to him for his input...
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  9. #49
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    Got the note... Thank You I believe it is a 2 Watt resistor. The Brown is NORMAL.... I believe the X Termination Board is GOOD.... When they FAIL... They BURN... I will post a 2nd reply with pictures. Resistors resist the flow of Voltage and dissipate that energy as HEAT. I have been in Electronics since joining the Navy in 1975. I am NOT a big fan of the Decision to spray the coating on the Resistors. It was a knee jerk reaction to the early 2008 problems with the QC Chucks Vibrating the whole machine causing the C1 Capacitor shown in my pictures snapping off. As you can only bend copper wire like the leads on the Capacitor so many times before it snaps. I AGREE with the Glue of the C1 Capacitor on the X Termination Board as it is a LOLLY POP type part. IF the Machine NEVER had the QC Vibrations Problems then I don't believe we would have had the snapped C1's. We also had Snapped L2 Coils in the Early version of the power supplies. Also caused by the QC Vibration.

    So this X Termination board board has TWO Functions. It gets the Signal from the CW Computer to turn on the Cut Motor. This signal goes to a Optical Coupler that is just a LED Light and a Photo transistor. The Light inside the Chip causes the Photo Transistor to TURN ON. This is a SAFETY DEVICE. It separates the Computer Wires from the 115 volt AC Power that is going to turn on the Cut Motor. So the Output of the Photo Coupler then turns on the Q1 Transistor. The 3 Leg Transistor with heat sink is a on off switch for the Cut Motor.

    I am still confused with the function of the 2nd Optical Coupler. It could be something to do with LHR Playing with the SPEED of the Cut Motor... Remember after a CCM or check cut motor you will hear the cut motor speed up in something like a Open Loop Mode with NO Computer Control.

    The 2nd Function of the X Termination board is a Jumping Off point from the CW Computer Signal to turn on and move the X Servo Motor and return the Encoder Data back to the CW Computer.

    SO I read you are concerned about a Y Stall... In my opinion the X Termination board will have nothing to do with the Y Stall.

    I see you mentioned something about Power Supply Wires... YES... Screw Type Power Supply Terminals can loosen over time as the metal of the wire connectors flattens out and the Screws will need to be tightened. At Sony in 1995 we actually paid a guy to come to our Picture Tube Plant and use a Temperature Sensing Video Camera to Scan all Circuit Breaker Panels and more Important the big Equipment bays that held the PLC's or Program Logic Controllers. The Mini computers that operated the Factory Automation. Loose Wires while the equipment is operating makes HEAT... The Thermal Image Camera would show different colors for HEAT... We would get a report with a IR Picture and a Camera Picture. Next shut down for Maintenance we would go in and make the repairs. Next Month the guy would scan the problem and send a FIXED Report... The Camera was HUGE back in 1995 and cost over $10K each... Now you can get the same Image with a Camera under $100.00.... Progress.... I never miss an opportunity to TOOT my Horn about SONY.... Loved working there... Did 2 years in San Diego in Production in the 32 inch CRT or Picture Tube Area and 17 inch Computer Monitor CRT area. Then 2 Years in the Calibration Lab doing Calibration but mostly Power Supply Repairs. Here is a Boot leg Video. Sony did not allow pictures... This was taken years after I left for 4 years in Philly at the Service Center fixing stuff... They shut down this building shortly after the video was taken and the equipment sent to Recycling or sold... I worked in the Area at the 10 minute point of the video to the pack off area. We used Fanuc Robots to paint Liquid Carbon on the outside of the Glass Picture tube. With the Carbon on the inside it made a Capacitor out of the CRT helping the Electrons Flow to the screen. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNkIgVwr_nQ&t=762s

    So I see you have a New Power Supply. I wish they had put Shrink tube Wire Markers on the Wires.... For ID.... And you need to watch the CRIMP of the Wire to the connector. If you don't have a Quality Crimper you can BEND the Connector but make a LOOSE CONNECTION.... A Proper connected wire cannot be pulled from the connector. Did your wire come out of a Crimp connector?

    Now Finally... A Y Stall... Y Stall's happen 98% of the time due to bad 685ZZ Bearings in the Y Gearbox... IF when doing a BIT CHANGE when the bit goes to the Bit FLAG on the far side of the machine and makes THREE CLICKS... That is the Servo Motor SPLINES SLIPPING on the Plastic Gear.... Hence... BAD BEARINGS....

    A WORN SHAFT lets the Shaft lean toward the center of the machine and lets the servo motor slip a few teeth...

    The FIX.. Replace the 2 685ZZ Bearings and possibly the Gear and Shaft... TIM Thoelen is selling SHAFTS that you can press into the old gear... Otherwise it is over a Hundred Dollars for a LHR Servo Motor and Gearbox.

    AL
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    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 3 Weeks Ago at 07:31 PM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  10. #50
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    Here are some pictures of Really BAD X Termination Boards.... I believe some are caused by UN GROUNDED machines that build up STATIC ELECTRICITY on the Machine FRAME and ARC OVER taking out some Components of the Cut Motor Circuit...

    The 2nd reason... Turning on your machine in a High Humidity and COLD... Where the machine sat overnight in a COLD SHOP and you turn the HEAT ON and Condensation forms on the Circuit Boards. Causing a ARC.... Water and Electricity....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CIMG6057.JPG   X Term board.jpg   Burnt X Termination.jpg  
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

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