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Thread: My lithophanes bits. What works for me...

  1. Default My lithophanes bits. What works for me...


    1 Not allowed!
    I acquired an Amana Tool Shank Body several years ago and I ended up cutting .5 or .375 off the end of the shaft (Don't remember anymore which, but final length is .875) I tried it on some carves then on some really soft pine but it did not end well with a broken tip. Fast forward to 2 months ago I started practicing on Candlestone lithophanes and this is the results I have been getting. So far I have done at least a dozen carves in 5x7 material with no problems to the machine. In fact because of the shaving effect of the knife blade, I think it cuts better then the 1/32 spiral bit. Up side is I can touch up these blades when they become dull. I will only use them for Corian or similar material and based on my previous experience I advise others also! The picture is from a cell phone camera, and some of the nieces and nephews pictures that were taken from a actual camera turned out better. This was on Candelstone's Bone, In the next few weeks after recovering from all the carving time I am going to try an 8x10 his res picture to see what it turns out like, once I get a little more familiar with doing these.
    The bit is 30 degree .30 (Just under 1/32) V tip available at tools today.
    https://www.toolstoday.com/in-groove...rt-knives.html
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  2. Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Here is the Column box's I made to throw them in. Complete with the LED strip lighting and duct sealing tape (Sticky tinfoil) on the sides for reflection. Top not shown is made to come off with 2 screws to change out the Candlestone and glass front. Or repair any LEDs that fail.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Wisconsin
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    Thanks for the heads up on those bits.
    I looked at something similar a while ago, but never tried them yet.

    Justin Pierce, aka spalted
    *Pattern Editor (Probe) * Centerline * Dxf Import * STL Importer * Version 3 Standalone * Advanced 3D * Advanced 2D * Conforming Vectors * Rotary *C Machine *Rock Chuck

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Northern Colorado
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    Thanks for the info. I am guessing that you select the 1/32" bit in the board settings?

    Nice box build. A tip I learned was to paint the inside of the box white to improve the light distribution.
    RingNeckBlues
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Kaukauna, Wisconsin
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    464

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    I would have to agree with Floyd on that one. Flat white paint will give a more balanced lighting and will illuminate more of the light back the the project. Foils reflect the light but at a much lower percentage rate causing a loss of light.

  6. Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by fwharris View Post
    Thanks for the info. I am guessing that you select the 1/32" bit in the board settings?

    Nice box build. A tip I learned was to paint the inside of the box white to improve the light distribution.
    Thanks,
    1/32 bit and optimal carve. I'm finding Candlestones Vanilla and Bone material seems to leave little feather of material behind stuck to the material that doesn't blow off. White seems fine? But I really like the look of the Vanilla and Bone.
    My first box, which I screwed up was painted white on the inside ( I routed the side grooves for the picture and glass too shallow by .125) So it is regulated to my show-me reminder box. I was under the gun to finish everything by Christmas and was still putting the finishing touches such as the lights and lids and feet on Christmas morning.
    I have been practicing doing mortise holes with the machine for awhile now, and the box was a clock idea I had awhile ago.
    Few pictures of the bottom with the recessed felt feet of the box and the back with the top assembled.
    Also some detail in white and bone. (and yes I like the Marx Brothers)
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