Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Z truck works - now I get a Y Axis stall error

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Cypress, Texas
    Posts
    46

    Default Z truck works - now I get a Y Axis stall error

    I have to be honest I am getting discouraged - I know chin up - In my previous journey we fixed the air carving issue and replaced aging parts. I carved several sample boards to get the design adjustments right without any problems. I put the good piece in and the carve went all wrong - the spacing was off length wise - I finally recalibrated the x measurement and that is holding however now I get a Y axis stall. There is nothing impeding it - I adjusted the tension to make it a little tighter when that did not help I adjusted to make it a little looser - the Y truck bearings are straight and in the correct alignment. The belt seems to be in good shape. It makes a rougher noise when it starts up but then smooths out - it stops at the same place every time - when it is homing to find the bit. It hits the side next to the computer pad and I here a clunk and it stops. There is nothing over there catching it.

    None of the literature gives me any further ideas. Any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brunswick, GA
    Posts
    8,116

    Default

    Some more things to check...

    - check belt teeth for any missing or broken

    - check the roller bearings. On my main machine, the lower/left roller has become frozen three times over a ten year period. Lots of WD40 and compressed air has freed it up each time

    - last month, my main machine kept getting y stalls. I checked all the usual, but ultimately discovered the y belt had stretched out to the point it was impossible to keep proper tension. Not bad for over ten years of use to last that long! Anyway, the belt’s appearance seemed fine at first inspection. Then compared to my other machine belt and discovered how badly it had stretched! Only fix was to replace the belt.
    Michael T
    Happy Carving!


    ═══ Links to Patterns & Resources for CompuCarve™ & CarveWright™ ═══

    Visit the CarveBuddy Website for Additional Exclusive Patterns and Resources

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Traditionally when the Y hits the keyboard side of the machine when it is to go down and touch the brass roller plate it is because when the Y went over to the Bit Plate it did 3 clicks as the servo motor splines slipped 3 teeth inside the Y Gearbox. SO when it comes back to the left the 3 teeth it slipped let the head slam into the left side.

    The Cause is simple bad 685ZZ Bearings in the Y Gearbox and likely the worn shaft of the big gear.

    LISTEN when the head goes over to the bit plate. When it gets near and puts a strain on the Y gearbox pushing out the bit plate it clicks usually 3 times... The Servo Motor has splines that mesh with the plastic gear. When under stress as in pushing the bit plate the big plastic gear in the Y gearbox moves away from the servo shaft letting it slip some teeth.

    This is the most common problem with the machine other than a bad FFC Cable as it is a CONSUMABLE... Can only bend so many times...

    As far as the loud humming the servo motors do when COLD... It's normal.... Just does it when it starts moving or homing. It is just the servo drive and the feedback from the encoder doing it's job... It's a tight servo loop.

    Good Luck,

    AL

    Yes it can be a loose belt but more likely the bearings and shaft...

    I won't post the pictures as I have many times before. People are getting sick of seeing them... LOL
    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 09-09-2018 at 10:16 PM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Cypress, Texas
    Posts
    46

    Default

    I think you are right Al - what do I buy to replace those parts: 685ZZ bearings and a Y gearbox? The FCC is brand new. It is not expensive so I can always replace it again. I have not mailed the parts yet - I'll holler when I do so you know whe to expect them - Hugs and Thanks! Vicki

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    No worries on the parts.

    The 685ZZ Bearings are metric and you can find them on line. I don't think LHR Sells them.

    Likely the shaft has been thinned due to the bad bearings. Tim is making the replacement shafts for $7.00 plus shipping. The other option is to buy the whole gearbox and motor from LHR for $90.00 plus $15.00 shipping. The Tim shaft just presses out and back in. https://forum.carvewright.com/showth...152#post270152
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00488_WEB.jpg   DSC00486_WEB.jpg   DSC09643_WEB.jpg   DSC09644_WEB.jpg  

    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Cypress, Texas
    Posts
    46

    Default

    I think I will replace it - I think the encoder inside is bad.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vltrnjd View Post
    I think I will replace it - I think the encoder inside is bad.
    Why do you think so? Try removing the encoder cover to see if dust has gotten inside. The earlier ones did not have a seal.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Kaukauna, Wisconsin
    Posts
    582

    Default

    I just received my Tim shafts today, they look like they are very well built with a black oxide finish. If you decide to buy Tim shafts, I just thought I would toss this in to the pool. I am going to order my bearing tonight yet, but think I'm going to order 6852RS to get a better seal on the bearings. The 685ZZ is just metal dust covers, where as the 6852RS has rubber seals. The price difference is very minimal.

  9. Default

    Just for my information, what are Tim shafts. And what bearings are you speaking about.

    Not trying to be nosey at all. I really am on the look out for things that are very good. I have always believed in top of the line on tools etc.

    If I'm prying in to much just tell me to go away.

    Ed

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    7,936

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by edsingletary View Post
    Just for my information, what are Tim shafts. And what bearings are you speaking about.

    Not trying to be nosey at all. I really am on the look out for things that are very good. I have always believed in top of the line on tools etc.

    If I'm prying in to much just tell me to go away.

    Ed

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

    https://forum.carvewright.com/showth...681#post270681
    RingNeckBlues
    My patterns on the Depot
    DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!

    Proven to out perform all others!
    Buy CarveWright
    Colorado FaceBook Users Group


    All patterns and projects that I share on the CarveWright forum are for your personal carving purpose. They are not to be shared, sold or posted on any other web site without permission from RingNeckBlues Designs.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •