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Thread: A question about maintenance costs

  1. #1

    Default A question about maintenance costs

    I just started working with the machine a week ago and I am very pleased both with the intuitive nature of the machine/software AND the quality of the machine. I build custom furniture and cabinets and I originally thought to purchase a machine solely for cutting out patterns for jigs but, now that I have the machine, I see all sorts of other possibilities as well. In general, after 25 years of experience, I have a fairly good idea of what to charge for the various things I do in my shop; I know that value of my labor and have a reasonably good idea of what the "wear and tear" costs are on my machine. The Carvewright is a bit of a mystery for me to figure the value of each hour of carve time. I know the cost of the machine and know that the first 200 hrs are under warranty (sort of)... so, assuming I have no other costs in that time, the break even point is around $10/hr "carvetime" for just the machine. Added to that would be, of course, shop time, labor, materials, etc...) I am wondering about how often people find they need to make repairs and around how much people are spending/year or /100hrs. of use (or some such thing). How are other people thinking about this? What did you spend in your first few years to keep the thing running? I see all sorts of unhappy people who make noise about problems on the internet... but I also see so many pleased people, here on the users group. Clearly, when the machine is running well it is AMAZING!
    Many Thanks for Your Experience,
    Mike Jacobs

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    7,962

    Default

    This is a link to the recommended maintenance schedule that might give you some information on what cost you might expect based on machine (cut motor) hours. You will see that around 250 hours is when you would expect to start replacing parts do to normal usage and parts to have on hand.

    http://support.carvewright.com/sugge...ance-schedule/
    RingNeckBlues
    My patterns on the Depot
    DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!

    Proven to out perform all others!
    Buy CarveWright
    Colorado FaceBook Users Group


    All patterns and projects that I share on the CarveWright forum are for your personal carving purpose. They are not to be shared, sold or posted on any other web site without permission from RingNeckBlues Designs.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks, I looked a this earlier today. Is there parts pricing available online?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Newport, WA
    Posts
    50

    Default

    I think that you are pretty close at $10/hr break even. It appear to me that many charge $20/hr for carve time + finishing + material. It also appears to me that you get 20-30 hours of carve time out of a $40 tapered bit depending on what you are carving. They can be re-sharpened multiple times. There is also another group (mostly with the same good folks as here at https://www.facebook.com/groups/1041312339227740/ that gets a lot of traffic. Check that group out also if you have not already. There have been some discussions there about costs, maintenance, sharpening, etc. Both groups together are an invaluable asset! I have only been using the CW for about 3 months. It is a vintage "A" machine with the spindle upgrade. I love it - it is way more fun than I even expected.
    Just my 2 cents...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    7,962

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    Quote Originally Posted by easybean View Post
    Thanks, I looked a this earlier today. Is there parts pricing available online?
    On the main site once you get into the store they have a parts section to view the parts and prices.
    RingNeckBlues
    My patterns on the Depot
    DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!

    Proven to out perform all others!
    Buy CarveWright
    Colorado FaceBook Users Group


    All patterns and projects that I share on the CarveWright forum are for your personal carving purpose. They are not to be shared, sold or posted on any other web site without permission from RingNeckBlues Designs.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Springtown, TX
    Posts
    676

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    I "try" to get $30 an hour for machine time. That seems to usually work and can sell for that price. I don't factor materials or design and shop and finish time.
    I do mantels that take 3-4 hours to carve and 3 hours to assemble and finish. I get $250 for them. It should be more, but I sell a lot of them and I can do them cheaper than people with the big machines. They charge anywhere from $90-120 an hour design and machine time......

    What you charge is what you can get on that item!!!!!!
    Brent

    A,B machines, PE,probe,conforming vectors, centerline, 2d,3d,stl and dfx imprt, rotary , 3.xx, Pattern Sculptor
    OS X Yosemite

    Woodwork is what I do to pay for my tool addiction.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

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    When you think long term maintenance a few things come to mind.


    One of the more expensive items is the Flex Shaft that is not a Warranty Item from what I remember. The key is proper lubrication. TOO Much of the correct stuff or TOO much of the not so great stuff leads to a build up of oil on top of the spindle and seen by removing the top hat. It can get into the top bearings and cause heat buildup.

    Next is to use the proper lube for the flex shaft. In 2007 the Chain Lube was the lube of choice with molly. But the company changed the formula and it no longer penetrated into the core of the flex causing the flex to heat up and usually snap in the center. Then it likely would snap the bit so it was a double hit. It is a very contested topic as to what lube to use. Many like Engine Assembly lube but my recommendation it to buy it from LHR. They bought a tub of the Good Stuff and sell it.

    Next is Cut Motor Brushes as the Cut Motor is a very expensive part. The recommendation it to change the brushes around 250 cut hours. If you wait too long then a short brush could stop the cut motor and you snap a bit... And buy the brushes from LHR. They get the carbon hardness correct and the length of the tether inside the spring. A ACE Hardware set of brushes sanded to fit may look like a bargain but when that metal spring hits the moving armature the sparks and motor will fly.... I get about 5 changes of the brushes before the copper wears too thin.

    And be Gentle with the Flex on the Motor end... You can crack the motor housing. Even shipping the machine with the flex installed is BAD... Stresses the motor case.

    And then we have the part that gets the most wear... The Y Gearbox... Plan to replace the Y Gearbox Bearings very 250 cut hours. Before it wears the shaft this and you need to buy a new gearbox.

    Roller Bearings... Keeping them lubricated will go a long way to keeping the motion smooth. Having some extra bearings and more important extra screws is great as it is easy to snap them installing the heads.

    Board Sensor. Good to have one on hand and when you order one, order a 4 wire cable so you can test a new sensor by plugging it in on the top of the machine if necessary.

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    581

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    Al has it covered better than I could have said it.

    I think the maintenance expense for these machines is pretty darn low.

    I have 8 CNC routers at work, big ones.
    I just ordered a bucket of grease today that I use on 5 of them, roughly about 5 gallons, $1200 bucks.
    My point is we all dream of having a bigger machine, but the cost to operate those machines is astronomical compared to something like the Carvewright.

    My Carvewright is a B I think, so I had a few glitches in the beginning, and the added cost of upgrading my chuck from the quick change.
    And I know my hours are much lower than a lot of other users, because I haven't ran in much for a few years. But I haven't stuck nothing into it for parts.
    Lube and tooling, that's it.

    Justin Pierce, aka spalted
    *Pattern Editor (Probe) * Centerline * Dxf Import * STL Importer * Version 3 Standalone * Advanced 3D * Advanced 2D * Conforming Vectors * Rotary *C Machine *Rock Chuck

  9. #9

    Default

    This was perfect. Exactly what I needed to know. Thank You. I was worried, before I looked a the the prices, that parts replacement would be astronomical (as it is on much of the specialized farm equipment that I own)... but was pleased to see that the prices seemed fairly reasonable. It looks like I can tack on an extra $25/hr. carving time to my regular custom work rate and be fairly certain to recover the cost and maintenance of the machine. It has been fun to have the CW carving away while I work on joinery and finish work! Do you recommend foloowing the regular maintenance schedule or have you found that being slightly more pro-active is worthwhile?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

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    To continue my post from the other day.

    FFC or Flat Flex Cable is a Consumable so having a few in stock is a good thing. The thin copper sandwiched between plastic. The copper can only bend so many times then it snaps... Then because it is held between plastic it can still touch intermittently. This will lead to confusing symptoms.

    Dust Collection is a MUST... enough said....

    Smoke Detector.... Everyone should have a battery smoke detector above the machine. I was standing out on my deck working one day when my smoke detector went off... My flex had melted and was smoking because I had kinked the spring inside the flex when it was hot sitting in the sun on the deck earlier doing maintenance.

    I have a wireless camera and a intercom that goes through the power wires. If I need to make a quick trip to the house I turn on the intercom when I get to the house and listen. Beware the wireless camera can give you measuring errors as the LED's light up the board confusing the board sensor that is just 2 LED's and a sensor seeing the reflective light.

    Good Luck,

    AL
    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 02-28-2018 at 08:54 AM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


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