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Thread: Board sensor issues!!

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Southeast Idaho
    Posts
    641

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    Isn't there a users group in Penn that can assist this gentleman on site?

    When I first started getting broken bits in the middle of a cut project, it was due to a bad connection in the motor. The motor would just stop spinning and the head would keep moving. Was the motor spinning when it went down into the board?

    https://forum.carvewright.com/showth...519#post235519

    I also have broken bits when the corner of my board had a gap between it and the sled. I wasn't watching and the bit touch for surface went down into that gap. The machine thought that was the surface, and didn't start spinning soon enough to cut the board at the real surface.

    The machine vibrates a lot, and you could just have a loose connection between something and the cut motor. With evidence that there were other issues with your shipping, like the broken lid, I believe this is a pretty strong possibility.

    You also want to make sure your side rails on a sled are no more than 1/8 different than your project. I broke a bit when it ran into the side rail that was above the project board.

    Wish we were closer!!

    PS... you may want to start a new thread, I am not sure everyone reads the "Newbies" forums section There is a Troubleshooting topic section.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Kaukauna, Wisconsin
    Posts
    767

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    Not sure if this helps or not, but I purchased my first machine used with very low hours. The guy bought it used it for a class he took for it and a few small carvings. For a long time I thought I may have bitten off more than I could chew and did not know of this forum, which would have helped. I repaired the issues I came across, and the machine is caving great to this day. It took time, but I learned so much about these machines. I have another that I am trying to get running true, but that another day. I can see your issues with this being a new machine, there did seem an issue with shipping as of the crack cover. I would check the machine over very well for other cracks and damage, and the shipping box, to see where damage could be.Was the shipping box damaged in the area of the cracked cover indicating shipping damage with damage to the foam on the inside of the box. If yes shipping damage could be the cause. If no, I would think the damage was done before shipping. The shipping box can tell you a lot. The cover is made with same material they used for safety glasses so it can take a pretty good hit, being cracked, depending where should have needed a tough blow from somewhere.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    2,401

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    Bypass the cover switches and see if that fixes the problem. If it does fix the problem and you leave it that way, don't say anything about it here on the forum because it will start a flaming s**t storm.
    Steve

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Southeast Idaho
    Posts
    641

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    Steve, you might want to PM him the info on how
    (ducking under the S*** umbrella)

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    2,401

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    Quote Originally Posted by DianMayfield View Post
    Steve, you might want to PM him the info on how
    (ducking under the S*** umbrella)
    Basically it's just "shorting out" the two wires on each switch. If you have already taken the cover off it should be easy. I have my umbrella open.
    Last edited by SteveNelson46; 08-26-2017 at 12:57 PM.
    Steve

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

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    If this was my machine, I would try the "seat belt" trick first before bypassing the switch. It is applying strips of masking tape to the clear cover with the cover open 1/4. So when closed it pulls the clear cover tight to the switch. I have one on the left side switch that talks to the computer. The right side switch is a safety device to prevent the bit from turning when the cover is open. MY machine has had a causality to the C1 Capacitor on the X Termination board. Where one lead snaps off. This touching and not touching can cause the cut motor to start by itself. If the right switch was bypassed then the bit would spin so be careful with Steve's advice. Most machines have a fix for the capacitor where they glue it to the board. Likely your capacitor is SAFE.

    IF you have a dust collector, THIS could be causing the switch to OPEN stopping the Cut Motor and snapping the bit. The Clear cover needs to be cut properly where vibration doesn't let the cover open slightly and opening the cut motor switch stopping the motor snapping the bit.

    The other MAIN reason for a bit snapping is the board loosing contact with the Brass Roller. The brass roller tracks the board in length or X. IF the Brass Roller looses contact with the brass roller the machine will push the board in length trying to get the brass roller to read correct. THIS is when the bit snaps. A picture of the cut where the bit snapped would tell if the machine pushed in the X direction snapping the bit that was running OR snapped the but due to a motor stall.

    I am taking time to explain to a new carver that if you blindly bypass the right switch you could get hurt. It would be more of a S storm if someone got hurt not knowing why bypassing the switch was dangerous. Like changing your table saw blade with the saw plugged in.

    In the picture you see where masking tape was placed on the bottom of the board letting the brass roller BITE into the soft tape creating sort of a rack and pinion. Sometimes defects in the bottom edge of the board or just using a hard smooth wood like Oak or Maple let the Brass roller slip causing the broken bits.

    IF the cut motor continues to be intermittent then lastly you need to inspect the cut motor brushes. OVER 250 cut hours and they could be TOO SHORT. Plus inspect the X Termination Board for BURNT copper traces too.

    I read back the older posts and this is a NEW machine so the cut motor brushes are not likely short. I bet the Seat Belt will help especially since you had a cracked clear cover replaced. The Switch could be loose or damaged.

    Where are you in PA?


    Good Luck,

    AL
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC02537_WEB.jpg   DSC08069_WEB.jpg   DSC07811_WEB.jpg   DSC07813_WEB.jpg  

    DSC06644_WEB.jpg   DSC06139.JPG   DSC01471_WEB.jpg   Burnt X Termination.jpg  

    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 08-26-2017 at 01:38 PM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  7. #57
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    2,401

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    I agree with you Al but, temporarily bypassing the switches may help diagnose the problem. If one chooses to leave it that way then that is a different animal. We certainly don't want to recommend anything unsafe to new users.
    Last edited by SteveNelson46; 08-26-2017 at 06:59 PM.
    Steve

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    39

    Default

    I really do appreciate every ones help. The tips and tricks you have all recommended are invaluable. Although I have not tried anything outside of LHR's recommendation I'm sure the fixes previously mentioned do the trick.

    At this time I've all but lost interest in this machine but more so in LHR as a company. I understand there are some setup nuances with a brand new machine and I'm okay with this. But I've gone way past setup nuances. To date I have over 25 hours in labor repairs, diagnosis, and phone calls with LHR. This doesn't include down time in waiting for parts. I've replaced the clear cover, the main crank head assembly, added washers to increase head pressure, fought with numerous error codes, intermittent head issues, and broken bits. Even after adding 4 washers to increase head pressure I'm still at the bare minimum pressure and occasionally have to press down on the main head unit as I crank the handle in order to get the desired head pressure so the machine will register and move on to the next step. As far as the motor not starting, I've completed a few tests and each time the head motor spins as desired. When I notice the head motor does not start at the beginning of a carve I immediately cancel the carve to save the bit. I do nothing else except restart the carve and the head begins to spin as normal. LHR wants to blame this on the clear cover and maybe that is the problem, but I have my doubts.

    I've request bit replacements but LHR refuses to replace them and explains they are not covered by warranty. If the bit(s) had several uses on them or if I was trying to do a carve or cut through a thick board all at once, I could understand them not wanting to replace the bit as this is user error or a worn bit. Both bits were brand new with not a single cut/carve on either. Somehow this is my fault they broke regardless of the machine malfunction.

    I've requested LHR sends me a call tag so I can ship the machine back for diagnosis and repair in their authorized service center to be looked at by an authorized tech. They keep refusing to do so. I've also requested a new machine be sent out to me. They will not send me a new one. I've requested LHR refund me entirely as I believe this machine is a lemon. They refuse to do so. Lets pretend for a moment that I have no mechanical ability or proper tools to complete these fixes. What would LHR do in this case?

    I'll remind everyone once again that I purchased this machine brand new from LHR. In my opinion I am way beyond normal setup nuances and configuration. At this time it's clear LHR does not have their customers in their best interest. They are taking advantage of free labor on their customers behalf. They want to take no responsibility or accountability and push blame on UPS and the end user. They seem to forget that I purchased the machine from them, not UPS. At the end of the day this machine has their name written all over it and the responsibility falls on their shoulders to make it right. Private company or not they have a corporate and a consumer responsibility to stand by their product.

    LHR is not a responsible company in my opinion. These issues and my experience will be used as a lesson learned and made public across all mediums to warn and educate others of what they could be facing when buying a CarveWright. I hope this thread also educates other forum members to thoroughly research a company and their product along with other users experience before investing in a product. LHR has decided to draw a line and now push has come to shove. I thank all of you for your support and wish you all the best of luck with your CarveWright.

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trainerjay View Post
    I really do appreciate every ones help. The tips and tricks you have all recommended are invaluable. Although I have not tried anything outside of LHR's recommendation I'm sure the fixes previously mentioned do the trick.

    At this time I've all but lost interest in this machine but more so in LHR as a company. I understand there are some setup nuances with a brand new machine and I'm okay with this. But I've gone way past setup nuances. To date I have over 25 hours in labor repairs, diagnosis, and phone calls with LHR. This doesn't include down time in waiting for parts. I've replaced the clear cover, the main crank head assembly, added washers to increase head pressure, fought with numerous error codes, intermittent head issues, and broken bits. Even after adding 4 washers to increase head pressure I'm still at the bare minimum pressure and occasionally have to press down on the main head unit as I crank the handle in order to get the desired head pressure so the machine will register and move on to the next step. As far as the motor not starting, I've completed a few tests and each time the head motor spins as desired. When I notice the head motor does not start at the beginning of a carve I immediately cancel the carve to save the bit. I do nothing else except restart the carve and the head begins to spin as normal. LHR wants to blame this on the clear cover and maybe that is the problem, but I have my doubts.

    I've request bit replacements but LHR refuses to replace them and explains they are not covered by warranty. If the bit(s) had several uses on them or if I was trying to do a carve or cut through a thick board all at once, I could understand them not wanting to replace the bit as this is user error or a worn bit. Both bits were brand new with not a single cut/carve on either. Somehow this is my fault they broke regardless of the machine malfunction.

    I've requested LHR sends me a call tag so I can ship the machine back for diagnosis and repair in their authorized service center to be looked at by an authorized tech. They keep refusing to do so. I've also requested a new machine be sent out to me. They will not send me a new one. I've requested LHR refund me entirely as I believe this machine is a lemon. They refuse to do so. Lets pretend for a moment that I have no mechanical ability or proper tools to complete these fixes. What would LHR do in this case?

    I'll remind everyone once again that I purchased this machine brand new from LHR. In my opinion I am way beyond normal setup nuances and configuration. At this time it's clear LHR does not have their customers in their best interest. They are taking advantage of free labor on their customers behalf. They want to take no responsibility or accountability and push blame on UPS and the end user. They seem to forget that I purchased the machine from them, not UPS. At the end of the day this machine has their name written all over it and the responsibility falls on their shoulders to make it right. Private company or not they have a corporate and a consumer responsibility to stand by their product.

    LHR is not a responsible company in my opinion. These issues and my experience will be used as a lesson learned and made public across all mediums to warn and educate others of what they could be facing when buying a CarveWright. I hope this thread also educates other forum members to thoroughly research a company and their product along with other users experience before investing in a product. LHR has decided to draw a line and now push has come to shove. I thank all of you for your support and wish you all the best of luck with your CarveWright.
    If you decide to continue to work on the machine follow the recommendations below. If you decide to sell the machine give this to the next Carver to fix the machine.

    Telling me that you needed to push the head down to get the hand crank to turn without clicking is a common problem caused by Dry Smooth Rail Bearings. The 4 smooth rails that the head moves up and down on, the long sleeve bearings on the head get dry and dust covered. This gives the head more resistance causing the handle to click. I recommend placing some rags and plastic at the base of the 4 smooth vertical rails and use a thin penetrating type oil to wash through each vertical head bearing followed by a heavier oil or dry lube. Do all 4 rails PLUS the threaded rod on each side. The goal is to free up the head to move up and down with little resistance. THIS is the source of the Bit Snapping Problem, not enough head pressure. The handle see's the dry bearing resistance and the head never gets enough pressure before clicking.

    Next install a bit and a wide board. Using the Z Data manually touch each side of the board looking to see if the head is LEVEL. If not the twisted head or lower on one side will bind the head making the handle click before the proper pressure is reached. Un hooking the bottom crossover linkage under the machine to level the head.

    That should take care of the head pressure problem.

    And to help with the cut motor problem, I would change the cut motor brushes and add a seat belt to the cut motor right side switch. Tape applied with the cover open 1/4 the way open so when it is closed it pulls the cover tight to the switch. The switch can be damaged when you remove the top black cover and don't hold the clear cover. The clear cover does not have a mechanical stop and rests on the switch when moved pushing is back or damaging it... The SEAT BELT HELPS...

    Good Luck,

    AL
    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 09-08-2017 at 01:08 PM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  10. #60
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    39

    Default

    Sorry for not replying to some of your posts. I have been battling with LHR for almost an entire year at this point over the lemon of a unit they sold me. They refuse to do anything but continue to issue me parts and blame everyone else for the issues. At this time I have no choice but to sue LHR. I hope this is a big lesson for current users and anyone considering purchasing a Carvewright needs to understand that they do not stand by their product and consider alternative options. Suit has been filed and hearing is scheduled.

    Click image for larger version. 

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