Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: Cut motor

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Bristol PA
    Posts
    43

    Default Cut motor

    I pulled out the machine and loaded a small project. I went to cut and the machine started to move in the correct axis'. Only problem is the cutter motor was not spinning.
    It did not generate any errors and actually completed the project (30 seconds) i did not react soon enough to cancel. The entire time the cutter never turned on.
    Should this machine know if the motor isn't spinning so it doesn't move and damage anything?
    Anyway, from the diagnostic, the motor says it's running but isn't.
    Any ideas on how to correct this problem?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. Default

    I would start with looking at the brushes in the motor the recommendation is to replace at 250 hours. I would also look at the cut motor switch located in the cover on the right hand side as you face the machine. maybe a loose connection or the switch is not getting contact with the lid.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Bristol PA
    Posts
    43

    Default

    The machine has less than 20 hours on it. When in the cut test routine (where it says the motor is running) when you lift the lid, it informs you the cover is open. I suspect there is a loose connector somewhere.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Kaukauna, Wisconsin
    Posts
    765

    Default

    There are two cover switches, one on each side. The one on the non keypad side controls to motor. The other tells controller the cover is open.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Bristol PA
    Posts
    43

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mugsowner View Post
    There are two cover switches, one on each side. The one on the non keypad side controls to motor. The other tells controller the cover is open.
    Ah! I'll check that later today. I am curious though, why the unit would go through the cutting routine without the motor spinning?

    Thank you both for your kind responses


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,193

    Default

    The machine has a speed sensor but it does not know if the motor is spinning or not!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    I see you are in Bristol, PA... I worked at the Sony Service Center at Bristol years ago before it closed.

    The right side clear cover switch is high on my list of reasons that the cut motor won't run... cover might not close far enough. I use a thing called a "Seat Belt" on my left cover switch. It might HELP you on the RIGHT switch. Open cover 1/4 way and apply some strong tape to the clear cover at the switch and wrap it down into the flex slot. When the cover is lowered it gets tight and pulls the clear cover toward the switch holding it tight.

    AL
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC02537_WEB.jpg  
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Bristol PA
    Posts
    43

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Digitalwoodshop View Post
    I see you are in Bristol, PA... I worked at the Sony Service Center at Bristol years ago before it closed.

    The right side clear cover switch is high on my list of reasons that the cut motor won't run... cover might not close far enough. I use a thing called a "Seat Belt" on my left cover switch. It might HELP you on the RIGHT switch. Open cover 1/4 way and apply some strong tape to the clear cover at the switch and wrap it down into the flex slot. When the cover is lowered it gets tight and pulls the clear cover toward the switch holding it tight.

    AL
    I see what you are saying. Good idea!
    I defeated both switches and still the motor does not run. I removed the bottom and checked all power connectors. I looked at the X board and saw nothing that looked burnt.
    A schematic or block diagram would be very useful right about now.
    I was really hoping not to need to take this apart, but before I get my meter does anyone have any other ideas?

    I appreciate everyone help! Thank you!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,193

    Default

    There are connectors right at the motor. It must be a connection. (Unfortunately, there are also connections in the motor.)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Bristol PA
    Posts
    43

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bergerud View Post
    There are connectors right at the motor. It must be a connection. (Unfortunately, there are also connections in the motor.)
    This machine sat for several years. When I started with it this year this display wouldn't turn on. That was simply some tarnish on the connector for the power board. I'm not surprised about this.
    The cut motor is 115V? Before I go deeper I'd like to put power to it. Don't want to burn it up not knowing.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •