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Thread: CarveTight Spindle

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    8

    Default CarveTight Spindle

    Hi;

    I currently have the older Carvewright version with the quick change bits. I now understand they no longer carry these bits & I will need to upgrade to the Carve Tight Spindle. I looked in the Carve Wright store & I see them mention the Carve Tight Spindle but I can't find the upgrade or pricing. My other question is what do I do with all my other carving bits & my complete routing bits that cost me a lot of money. I am a hobbyist and I only carve when I get the chance so I'm not up to date with all the changes. I contacted Carvewright but not much help. Can anyone let me know whats going on. Also can you sharpen the older carving bits.

    Thank You,

    Rod

  2. Default

    You can buy carving and cutting bits on ebay with out the adapters and then just insert them into the old quick change adapters. Use a torch or even a cigarette lighter to heat up the screws that hold the bit in place before loosening them and that releases the locktight that is on them. There is someone on the forum here that sharpens them but the cost is near buying new ones on ebay. I would recommend eventually going to the carvetight spindle but they are currently out of them and thats why the pricing does not show on the website. put locktight on again when you tighten the screws with the new bits again. If your adapters are well worn you can find them every now and then on ebay as well.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Thank You so much for the information. I will purchase the bits & insert them into the quick change adapters. Hopefully Carvewright will get some Carve Tight Spindles in soon. It's too bad they changed from the quick change. It worked well for me.

    Rod

  4. Default

    Your welcome, I want to add pay attention to how far the bit sticks out of the adapter and match it when you insert the new bits. You do not have to change if it works for you. Be carefull about too much wear on the chuck itself and on the adapters when they wear too much it causes bad carves and broken bits.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Unionville, NY
    Posts
    298

    Default

    You can buy bits from lhr without the carvetight adapter. Then put them in your quick change adapter. Go to the store select the bit and press adapter style and select no adapter.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Since you are sticking with the QC for a while longer... A little info on them as posted above...

    The QC uses Ball Bearings to hold the bit snug in the QC. What happens over time is the BB's wear divots or holes in the Bit holders. This lets the Bit holder and bit WOBBLE at high speed. The vibration acted as a jack hammer on the BB"S letting them dig deeper into the bit holders and then even start wearing the QC surfaces.

    So early users like myself would change bit holders but not change the QC and sometimes in as little as a single project the NEW bit holder would have BB Marks in them. This is because of the worn QC.... So we learned that once we saw BB Marks we needed to change the QC and ALL BB Mark bit holders. A BB Mark bit holder in a new QC would damage the QC.... I changed to a aftermarket ROCK chuck that is no longer available. The Carve Tite is truly the BEST Fix... It is a single solid shaft bit holder, superior to the QC Truck with the Threaded Section to attach the QC or in my case the ROCK. So switch to a CT as soon as you can.

    Another down side of the QC is that the Vibration in the early "A" Series Serial Numbers like I have is the L2 Coil in the Power Supply was not glued down very well. It's a length of copper wire on a ferrite core the size of a stack of nickles. The Weight of the core would vibrate from the QC when it went bad and like taking 14 gauge house wire and bending it over and over, it will change color and SNAP.... The L2's were snapping every day in the 2007-2009 time frame... This would show up with your CW not starting up... As the L2 Filter Coil was on the 5 Volt Output Leg of the power supply and acted like a fuse in that the voltage would not make it out of the power supply. LHR responded by having the Maker do a better job on the L2 Glue... The broken L2 could be fixed by a TV Shop.

    Next is removing the OLD QC to change it.... The QC is held by RED Loctite that is also called "Forever" Locktite... HEAT is required to remove the QC. Many have damaged the Truck beyond repair, I have a few that are TRASH... And I have even broken a few hardened Square Drive Bits used to hold the top of the shaft... I have found the BEST method is to find a Cheap Soldering Iron that fits up inside the QC to heat it.... Many have used tourches that overheated the lower bearing... So just swapping out the TRUCK with a CarveTite is actually BEST...

    I have some new QC's and Bit holders laying around if you cannot find any. I keep the bits as I use the 1/4 inch bits in my Rock. But it is more than likely you would DESTROY your Truck trying to get the old QC Off...

    Here is the L2 in the Power Supply that will eventually snap.....And here is the C1 Capacitor on the X Termination Board that will likely SNAP too....

    The sooner you switch to a CarveTite the better...

    AL
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC05806_WEB.jpg   DSC05810_WEB.jpg   DSC05824_WEB.jpg   DSC03700_WEB.jpg  

    DSC03710_WEB.jpg   DSC03707_WEB.jpg   DSC07813_WEB.jpg   DSC07811_WEB.jpg  

    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 01-07-2017 at 02:57 PM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  7. #7

    Default

    Al, thanks you so much for the very important information you have shared. I have a spare *B* machine that is still in the box. Is there a way to figure out the age of it?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    A call to LHR with the Serial Number should lead to a purchase date.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  9. #9

    Default

    Thank you.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    The Great Texas Gulf Coast
    Posts
    5,312

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rmaker View Post
    Hi;

    I currently have the older Carvewright version with the quick change bits. I now understand they no longer carry these bits & I will need to upgrade to the Carve Tight Spindle. I looked in the Carve Wright store & I see them mention the Carve Tight Spindle but I can't find the upgrade or pricing. My other question is what do I do with all my other carving bits & my complete routing bits that cost me a lot of money. I am a hobbyist and I only carve when I get the chance so I'm not up to date with all the changes. I contacted Carvewright but not much help. Can anyone let me know whats going on. Also can you sharpen the older carving bits.

    Thank You,

    Rod
    Sorry, your email was received after we left on Friday evening. Glad you found this site to answer your questions over the weekend.
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