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Thread: Z stall and cutting depth issue

  1. #21
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    It was the original motor for the A907 Z pack upgrade that I installed for him a long time ago and had I think over 600 hours on it so I think it must of been some internal failure. I need to check with the techs at CarveWright to see if they do some type of bench test on these.

    So you swapped out the encoder? What all did the entail? I do have a couple of old Z motors that I think are still good. They were from the A907 upgrades I've done and from an old parts machine I picked up. Would they be okay to swap out for the bad one?
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  2. #22
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    The encoders on the motors are soldered on. The encoder in the tracking sensor is exactly the same except it is not soldered. It makes for a perfect replacement part.

    One could certainly swap encoders between motors by desoldering and resoldering.

  3. #23
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    Dan,

    Thanks for the info, I will keep that in mind for future reference. I have a couple of motors from a display unit but the wires were cut off right where they come out of the motor body.

    Another question, would you know what difference, if any, there is between the older style motors and what they are using now? Older style being the ones on the A series machine. With the A907 upgrade they send a new motor and I still have the one I replaced. I do know the newer ones have a shorter body style for better clearance in the back of the machine.
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  4. #24
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    I thought all the motors were the same. Look on the casing (under the heat sink) RS-555PH-24110. Could it be that it is just the cap on the end which is shorter? (The motor casing on mine are about 5.5 cm long.)

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by bergerud View Post
    I thought all the motors were the same. Look on the casing (under the heat sink) RS-555PH-24110. Could it be that it is just the cap on the end which is shorter? (The motor casing on mine are about 5.5 cm long.)
    Thanks, that is what I am thinking but I will check out the numbers..
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  6. #26
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    Well after digging through my spare part boxes I came up with 4 motors and a couple of them even had the gear boxes. All of the numbers match what you posted and they all are the same length. They all have the old style heat sinks and end caps but I think I should be able to just swap out the motor into the new style heat sink with the clear plastic cover.

    This should make the current and new owner happy that they will not have to invest $100 for a new one.

    I will report back next year!
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  7. Default

    I know it is a long shot Floyd, but did you check the roller bearings on the Z truck. I had a similar issue and found the bearings were just loose enough to allow the bit to push up slightly and cant to one side when it contacted the board.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by TerryT View Post
    I know it is a long shot Floyd, but did you check the roller bearings on the Z truck. I had a similar issue and found the bearings were just loose enough to allow the bit to push up slightly and cant to one side when it contacted the board.
    Terry,

    Thanks for the tip. Even though I did a complete clean and lube prior to testing the machine I did verify the bearing movement prior to digging into the other causes. I believe I have it narrowed down to the Z motor electronics.

    Thanks again,
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  9. #29
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    Well the temperature in Colorado finally got out of the deep freeze the last couple of days so I swapped out the Z motor with one of the spares I had. I removed the heat sink and end cover from the bad one and put it on the spare motor. Very easy once I figured out that I had to loosen the screw on the heat sink so it would open up to get the motor out.

    I reinstalled the ffc cable and Z termination board that was with the machine and the test carve ran without any issues or stalls.

    It would be nice to know what the issue/problem is with the old motor. It must be something with the encoder system but I am not going to spend much time to worry about it.
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  10. #30
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    As long as you install the 14 pin circuit board on the old motors you should be good.

    I call it a 16 pin in one picture but it was 18 pin.

    AL
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