A buddy called me the other day and was wondering if I could carve UNMW Plastic - the kind of stuff Rockler sells to make jigs and such, I figure it will melt but he doesn't have any for a test. Anyone try this or have any thoughts?
Thanks
Martin
A buddy called me the other day and was wondering if I could carve UNMW Plastic - the kind of stuff Rockler sells to make jigs and such, I figure it will melt but he doesn't have any for a test. Anyone try this or have any thoughts?
Thanks
Martin
Here is a source you might want to look at http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/uhmw_sheet
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I have some and I assume it will machine just fine. I have not, however, actually tried it yet.
I agree, probably very similar to pvc board.
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OVERVIEW
Often referred to as the World's Toughest Polymer, Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) Polyethylene is your best material choice for making jigs and fixtures for your table saw, router table, drill press, etc. UHMW is a linear high density polyethylene that's 10x heavier than regular high-density polyethylene giving you a rock-solid base for your jig or fixture. UHMW has a low coefficient of friction and is self-lubricating, making it glide over your work surface with little resistance. Plus, this rugged polymer will last for years, as it is highly resistant to abrasions, chemical-resistant, and maintains its high-impact strength even at low temperatures. 4''W X 24'' L X 3/4'' Thick UHMW Plastic Jig Stock.
Here is what is on the Rockler web site on this material. I called Rockler and the teck. stated that they have not carved any but it dills, cuts and routs wonderfully.
Happy Carving
Robert D.
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My bet is that the feed rate will be too high.... and the machine will stall or snap something... That is why I use the LHR trick to fool my machine by telling it I have a 1/4 inch bit and using a 1/16th end mill to cut FRP Tags. It locks the feed rate for the vector cut into 1st gear. Any cut out in the UHWM will likely shift into 2nd gear and overload during the cut and during a carve region or logo offset the Y Axis.
With a new perfect bit it may cut for a while then as it dulls fault out... Plus the plastic will static cling to the drive belts and tracks.
I wish you good luck. I would not leave the machine un attended doing this...
AL
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Thanks all, I wasn't able to get back to this until now, not sure I'm going to try it, and I'm not familiar with the LHR trick so not sure I'm smart enough to make it work. I don't know if he wanted me to carve something for him or if he was just able to get a hold of some and wanted to see if I could use it.
I've actually carved a lithopane from the stuff I sourced by "repurposing" a kitchen cutting board. It was about 1/2" thick. It carves OK but makes a lousy lithopane. It doesn't ball like plexiglass but it does leave little "feathers" on small detail. I expect a REALLY sharp bit will cure or at least alleviate that. But for lithopnanes stick with solid surface (Corian, et al.)
BTW, I also used my Carvewright to cut out some knobs and jig parts out of the stuff. Works fine.
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