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Thread: Found a way to do a roughing pass

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Cornwall, Ontario, Canada
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    Default Found a way to do a roughing pass

    I have no idea if the roughing has been figured out in the pass but
    I'm glad I was able to find it for my upcoming project with inverted dovetails joints.

    I haven't tested it because my CW doesn't work so if someone is willing to give it a try
    you'll obviously get a free pattern from www.cnccraze.com.

    This is for a .5" pattern with a 300 height. Not sure if this technique can
    be used for all projects and patterns. Once you see the method used, you
    should be able to know whether you can use it or not.

    Two MPC's are used.

    Change your board size if you need to for each MPC.
    Make sure carvings are exactly at the same place on both jobs.

    Load the two MPC's on your card.

    Do the "first pass" which is basically like a pocket hole done with
    the 1/8" cutting bit (can be done as a draft) and once it's done, leave the board in place and load the "second pass".


    Reload your board using the "second pass".

    This could be used for patterns deeper than .25".

    I assume by doing this pass, it should extend the life of your 1/16" bit.

    Here are the 2 files.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/keu2dg5go0...ghing.zip?dl=0
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Roughing test.pdf  
    Last edited by zan29; 09-05-2016 at 02:48 PM.

  2. #2

    Default

    In my view not worth the extra machine time.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Default

    Thank you for the very nice comment DickB! Did I ask you to try it??

    Quote Originally Posted by DickB View Post
    In my view not worth the extra machine time.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk

  4. #4

    Default

    Just offering an opinion based on experience. No offense intended.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Tucson, Arizona
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DickB View Post
    In my view not worth the extra machine time.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    My view too Dick!. Maybe in some cases it may be useful but, IMHO, the machine and the software does not have enough precision to make multiple, separate passes for intricate carvings. A good example would be the "trick" we use to restart a carving that has failed with a zero depth carve region over the parts that have already been carved. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
    Steve

  6. #6
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    It's all good Dick!

    Quote Originally Posted by DickB View Post
    Just offering an opinion based on experience. No offense intended.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Default

    That is my point that it will probably not work for everything. The reason behind this is by using a cutting bit for the first pass, it will extend the life of your carving bit.
    I did a lot of deep carves with my CW and was always afraid the bit was going to snap or the machine would stall, even with a feather.

    And for my next project, this first pass is definitely needed.

    Robert should be testing it this week so I'll know for sure.


    Quote Originally Posted by SteveNelson46 View Post
    My view too Dick!. Maybe in some cases it may be useful but, IMHO, the machine and the software does not have enough precision to make multiple, separate passes for intricate carvings. A good example would be the "trick" we use to restart a carving that has failed with a zero depth carve region over the parts that have already been carved. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Tucson, Arizona
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zan29 View Post
    That is my point that it will probably not work for everything. The reason behind this is by using a cutting bit for the first pass, it will extend the life of your carving bit.
    I did a lot of deep carves with my CW and was always afraid the bit was going to snap or the machine would stall, even with a feather.

    And for my next project, this first pass is definitely needed.

    Robert should be testing it this week so I'll know for sure.
    Sounds like an interesting project and technique. I'm always interested in new ideas so I'm looking forward to seeing it.
    Steve

  9. #9
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    Dec 2007
    Location
    Yellville, AR 72687-0652
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zan29 View Post
    I have no idea if the roughing has been figured out in the pass but
    I'm glad I was able to find it for my upcoming project with inverted dovetails joints.

    I haven't tested it because my CW doesn't work so if someone is willing to give it a try
    you'll obviously get a free pattern from www.cnccraze.com.

    This is for a .5" pattern with a 300 height. Not sure if this technique can
    be used for all projects and patterns. Once you see the method used, you
    should be able to know whether you can use it or not.

    Two MPC's are used.

    Change your board size if you need to for each MPC.
    Make sure carvings are exactly at the same place on both jobs.

    Load the two MPC's on your card.

    Do the "first pass" which is basically like a pocket hole done with
    the 1/8" cutting bit (can be done as a draft) and once it's done, leave the board in place and load the "second pass".


    Reload your board using the "second pass".

    This could be used for patterns deeper than .25".

    I assume by doing this pass, it should extend the life of your 1/16" bit.

    Here are the 2 files.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/keu2dg5go0...ghing.zip?dl=0
    Hi I was going to give it a try, But the pattern file was in a MPC file made on newer Designer program, I could not open the MPC file, If you post the PTN file I would give it a try. I snap more cutting bits then my carving bits; I would try it with a 3/16 ball nose bit to remove the top layer of wood and then run the final pattern. I offer my patterns on CD and DVD's I have well over 5000 pattern files. my CD's hold about 200 patterns and DVD's about 600 pattern files. (PTN, MPC,MPW and the + and - Grayscale image with an image of the MPC file) I only make my patterns with CW Version 1.187 so any one can open my pattern files.

    It would take more time; but it would not be as hard in the CW unit. BJB
    Using Designer Version 1.187
    Donations are always welcomed, thanks – send a check to my PO Box 652

    BJB
    PO Box 652
    Yellville,AR 72687-0652

    PM me for my e-mail address.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Location
    Cornwall, Ontario, Canada
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    Default

    The roughing pass is not a "carve region". The pocket hole is done with lines and with the "select bit" option. With CNC's, roughing passes are always done with an endmill + an allowance, meaning your carving bits will last longer. I'll get you the MPC's for your version and I would suggest using the 1/8" or 3/16" endmill. The pocket hole (roughing pass) would have to be revised. Let me know which bit you want to use. Thanks for you interest.

    info@suzannewoodworking.ca

    Suzanne

    Quote Originally Posted by bjbethke View Post
    Hi I was going to give it a try, But the pattern file was in a MPC file made on newer Designer program, I could not open the MPC file, If you post the PTN file I would give it a try. I snap more cutting bits then my carving bits; I would try it with a 3/16 ball nose bit to remove the top layer of wood and then run the final pattern. I offer my patterns on CD and DVD's I have well over 5000 pattern files. my CD's hold about 200 patterns and DVD's about 600 pattern files. (PTN, MPC,MPW and the + and - Grayscale image with an image of the MPC file) I only make my patterns with CW Version 1.187 so any one can open my pattern files.

    It would take more time; but it would not be as hard in the CW unit. BJB
    Last edited by zan29; 09-09-2016 at 10:44 AM.

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