HELP - Carving IPE wood

[Iron Mike]

I've volunteered (should know better) to make a sign for an outdoor display at an Air Force Radar Site Museum that we're in the process of establishing in Bellefontaine, OH.

Since it will be exposed to weather extremes I thought I'd use Ipe, also known as Brazilian walnut,, ironwood, Pau Lope, Amapa, etc. I understand this is the 3rd hardest wood there is with a 3682 Janka rating (Lignum at 4500 Janka is the hardest wood).

Sign size will be ~12"x20" and have centerline "bold" text using a 90 degree bit. Approximately 60 words of text in three font sizes.

My questions - (I know that using a different wood would be the simple and perhaps safer answer, but being unique is important . . . . . . if it is reasonable to expect success.

1. Anyone have experience carving VERY hard woods? For sure I'll use a new carbon bit; might I need two?

2. Would this hardness be too much for the machine to handle? Is there a technique I can use to slow the carving speed?

3. Other ideas

Thanks for any input.

[oscarl48]

I have not carved any Ipe but I have done a lot of purple heart (~2500 janka rating). I've kept it at .25 but had absolutely no issues carving the stuff. I think my CW actually likes it a lot. My carvings are left razor sharp coming out of the CW. I would recommend a new bit though.

Please let us know what your experience is with the Ipe.

[RogerB]

I have carved and glued this wood . do not use a 12 inch wide with out glue up it will warp. Wash joints with thinner use Epoxy . Set depth for 1/4 max depth will be 3/16 .the 1/16 for the last pass will clean up any burn marks.
The harder the wood the nicer it carves. 2 bits a good idea.

[Iron Mike]

RogerB -

I have carved and glued this wood . do not use a 12 inch wide with out glue up it will warp. Wash joints with thinner use Epoxy . Set depth for 1/4 max depth will be 3/16 .the 1/16 for the last pass will clean up any burn marks.
The harder the wood the nicer it carves. 2 bits a good idea.

Good to hear you've carved ipe w/o problems. I'll be gluing up 4" boards so there should be no warp issues. I'll change bits 1/2 way through I think.

My son and S-I-L (who got the ipe for me) both work for a major national casework and fixture company. They use acetone and Titebond II for glue-ups of ipe. I've never used epoxy for wood joints - any specific brand or technique to consider?

Have you ever used paint on ipe? I may want to paint the lettering for contrast. I hear it's not too friendly to paint or finishing coats due to the oil content?

[blhutchens]

I have carved and cut parts out of ipe. I have also carved mesquite, osage orange (bois de arc)and pecan. All are very hard and all carve well. The better the quality setting the slower the feed rate and less sanding.
I could not testify to the paint. I would think the acetone and epoxy paint would be a for sure. Most commercial sign companies use the epoxy paint on HDU foam signs.

[RogerB]

I have been using West System for the last 12 years .I have never had a sign come back.I glue sign blanks for a sign company most time's it is western red 2 inch thick.
I have made furniture for out doors with ipe and the Titebond II will show the glue joints .

[cestout]

Titebond III would be better for outdoors. It is thinner than Titebond II so the glue lines might not show. I use on redwood for my outdoor signs.
Clint