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Thread: Carving logo on the back of a project.

  1. #1
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    Question Carving logo on the back of a project.

    I've always signed the back of boards by letting the machine measure the board by placing on end. My question is can and how do I carve that logo signature on the back of a board without the machine measuring the whole board? some of these name boards are 8 foot long and logo is only 12 inches so i'd like to put the board in and jog to where I want it carved without the time it takes to measure the whole board. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    I would think that putting a piece of black tape on the board might work, it might fool the machine into thnking it is only so long. I have never tried it.

  3. #3
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    What one can do is put in a board that is just big enough for the logo. Just before it is about to carve, raise head and switch the boards. Take care not to roll the brass roller during the switch. Tilt the boards off and onto the brass roller. Do not slide. You will get a "Possible Board Removal" message. Just press continue. It might help to put a mark on the long board where you want the carving to start.

  4. #4
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    Thanks Bergerud ,that's a great idea. Will try it tomorrow. I'll repost results.

  5. #5
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    Thanks aokweld101, I had tried that today but used blue painters tape but may have been to light a color. I will try that tomorrow also maybe before a board switch. One of these suggestions should work. Thanks again

  6. #6
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    The tape will not work unless you can find a way to let the rollers drop. The machine does not even look for the board ends until the rollers drop off of the board ends.

    If the logo is to be carved on the back of the board after you have carved the front of the board, there may be another way. After you carve the front of the board, do not release the board from the machine. Load the logo project and do the board flip before it starts to carve. (Or before the bit touch on the board.) The trick here is that the machine will not remeasure the board if the board is not released between projects.

  7. #7
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    You are right the tape didn't work Bergerud. I tried the tape first because it seemed the easier ,quicker way but no dice. I'm going to try your suggestion next. Let u know.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobalou View Post
    You are right the tape didn't work Bergerud. I tried the tape first because it seemed the easier ,quicker way but no dice. I'm going to try your suggestion next. Let u know.
    WELL the tape didn't work so I tried to place a 1/4 inch plywood with black tape on the ends of the board hoping it would measure the ply when rollers would fell off and black tape would fool the machine into thinking that was the end of the board. NOT!!! the machine is smarter than that I guess. So I worked on flipping the board as bergerud suggested well that was the ticket. I cut a piece of 3/4 inch plywood 12 x 14 and let the machine measure it and then took it out ,careful not to move the tracking roller and put my 14 " wide x 88" long board in ,again careful not to move tracking roller. Worked like a charm, only I had to stop and change from 90degree bit to sixty degree bit because when the machine measured the 3/4 inch board and I replaced it with a 1-3/4 inch board it wanted to carve deeper. I raised the lid to stop it and put a sixty degree bit and raised it to keep from carving too deep.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the help ,much appreciated.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobalou View Post
    Worked like a charm, only I had to stop and change from 90degree bit to sixty degree bit because when the machine measured the 3/4 inch board and I replaced it with a 1-3/4 inch board it wanted to carve deeper. I raised the lid to stop it and put a sixty degree bit and raised it to keep from carving too deep.
    Try swapping the boards before the bit touch. The depth would then be more accurate as it would touch on the second board.

    (It should really not have made a difference unless the head clamped down differently on the second board.)

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