MARCH 2016 Project of the Month - The "Alabaster" Rose Box

[mtylerfl]

Hello,

This project features segmented construction to form a gracefully contoured box with a detailed deep-relief carving of roses arranged in a circular pattern around the lid. You can apply a traditional stain finish or paint as desired, or you can use an interesting and easy marbelizing technique like I did to give this all-wood project the realistic appearance of alabaster stone!

The project uses just the 1/16" Carving Bit and the 1/8" Cutting Bit. No other bits are required.

The finished dimensions are about 8.25" diameter x 5.5" tall.

Main items you will need:

1) The Project Files (included):
• Rings_1-2.mpc
• Rings_3-4-5.mpc
• Rose_Lid_Parts.mpc

2) Boards with the following dimensions:

Rings_1-2: 0.75" x 11" x 26"
Rings_3-4-5: 0.75" x 9.2" x 32"
Rose_Lid_Parts: 0.75" x 9.2" x 22"

NOTE: Do not use boards that are smaller than specified above unless using an appropriate jig. Larger boards are fine.

3) 1.5" dia. wood knob for lid, #6 x 1" screw, 0.125" x 1.75" wood dowel

4) Sandpaper, waterproof wood glue (Titebond III), quick-set epoxy, wood stain and/or paint and clear finish

5) A Dremel-type rotary tool with assorted sanding wheels and bits to sand small details and speed up preparation for finishing.

Apply your choice of finish. The box will look great with a standard stained finish or a painted finish. However, you may want to do what I did...apply a faux marbelized finish to simulate an alabaster box. Here’s what I used on my Alabaster Rose Box sample made from Select Pine:

• Applied two coats full-strength SealCoat on all parts, sanding between coats
• Applied brush-on white primer on the top of lid only
• Applied three coats of Krylon white spray paint on all parts
• Performed a marbelizing technique on all parts
• Applied three coats spray shellac on all parts
• Several coats of gloss Krylon Clear Acrylic spray

Marbelize the parts by filling a container 2/3rds with water, then spray various shades of spray paint on the surface. Slightly stir the paint film with a skewer to “swirl” then carefully (but quickly, before the paint film becomes too dry) dip each part into the water. “Sweep” away the leftover paint film from the water surface after each part is dipped so you can start with a fresh film of paint each time. The paint film will adhere to the painted surface and produce a very realistic marbelized appearance.

ATTENTION: You can visit http://carvebuddy.com/the-buddy-blog/ to watch a couple “EZ Marbelizing Effect” videos showing the process recorded in real-time!

[mikemi]

Looks like a very unique and interesting project. Thanks Michael,

Mike

[sunmiztres]

That is so neat. Great idea. Thank you for sharing.

[mtylerfl]

Thank you, Mike and Heather!

I learned about that marbelizing technique over 20 years ago. I originally used it for marbelizing small International Coffee metal tins as desktop pen/pencil holders.

Before this box, the last time I used the technique was on some wooden Easter Eggs I carved with the CarveWright Rotary Jig (I showed them a couple years ago at the CarveWright Conference in Texas). I got the bug to do some more marbelizing when I came up with the idea for this box. It is such a fun technique and I hope you will enjoy it as much as I do!

[Alan Malmstrom]

That Marbelizing looks pretty good. Good Tip.

[SteveNelson46]

Michael,

This is a great project. In fact all of your projects have an appeal to all levels of users. Even the most experienced. Also, your detailed instructions are unparalleled and serve as a model to all of us.

[rcdages]

Michael,

This is a great project. In fact all of your projects have an appeal to all levels of users. Even the most experienced. Also, your detailed instructions are unparalleled and serve as a model to all of us.

I feel that Steve hit the nail on the heard on how well Michael's projects are given to us.

Just one more wonderfull project that can be used in many ways.

Another great one Michael.