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Thread: cut motor

  1. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bergerud View Post
    Give the motor a hit with the palm of your hand while running the test.
    Man I haven't seen that since my grandmother used to slap the side of the tv when it got fuzzy! LOL!

  2. #12
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    Looks as if I need to tear the machine apart, I rotated the spindle insert and lost a screw it fell in between the slot where the two belts are, I took the bottom off and blew out the sawdust. how do I test the termination board or do I just visually check it?

  3. #13
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    Just do a visual check for burnt components or copper traces. You could check the cut motor resistance from there. Unplug the cut motor plug and see if it has a couple ohms across it.

  4. #14
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    If you have a lot of hours on it there could be a bad connection inside the motor. I had bad connector inside that was obvious when I opened the motor. I soaked the end of the wire with solder to replace the conned tor th plug it back in. Worked that way for a long time but finally had to get a rebuilt one.
    Clint
    CarveWright StartU team member
    Web Site WWW.clintscustomcarving.com

  5. #15
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    Do you have Dust collection? If not the dust gets sucked into the cut motor at the cooling slits near the brushes and THROUGH the motor....... When it collects on the brush area the brushes can bind.

    AL
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    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  6. #16
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    Al, I have a 2 horse harbor freight dust collector when I bought the carvewright I was using a shop vac at first I bought a lotta parts and it wasn't getting the dust out, that is my first question for some one that buys a carvewright, it is going to rain today so it will be a good day to tear it down...more questions to follow later not unless I find the problem.. thanks gentlemen I'll keep ever one informed if I get it fixed.

  7. #17
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    A repost from the wires thread.

    So we are back to the RPM problem....

    Since the brushes are OK then we have a few things to check...

    I would start by un plugging the machine and removing the X Termination board and inspecting it... Look for brown or burnt parts...

    If that is OK then we have the cut motor wires... Some have found that the push on connector has a bad CRIMP so TUG on the wires looking for a loose wire... then re crimp....

    Lastly you will need to open the cut motor... I posted a bunch of pictures yesterday. Take Pictures in case a wire comes off... BE GENTLE and look for lose wires. Last year a Over Temp Fuse was found to have a poor solder joint... something like that can happen and cause this... When you put it back together watch where the wires go so they don't hit any moving parts or pinch. Don't forget the screw inside the muffler hole.... it hides in there.

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  8. #18
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    I have a omhs meter, what do I set the dial meter to check for ohms and where do I put the prongs. Its been so long since I have used it! It's nice out side so it's time to work on it.... can you believe that is going to be 80 degress here by Christmas hard to get in the Christmas spirit ....thanks
    Last edited by aokweld101; 12-21-2015 at 08:59 AM.

  9. #19
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    The motor should only be a few ohms. I think mine was 2 ohms. Check this resistance across the two wires which go directly into the motor. Spin the motor by hand as you measure to check all the windings. (Notice slight variations in resistance will result because of the brush contacts.)

  10. #20
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    Dan, what do I set the dial on the meter? Thank you.. I thought checking the ohms frist before I take the bottom off would be the best way of doing it.
    Last edited by aokweld101; 12-21-2015 at 09:20 AM.

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