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Thread: POP goes the ON switch

  1. #1
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    Jun 2013
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    Default POP goes the ON switch

    Heavy sigh... I am sure there are ideas as to the cause. Lay it on me, no need to be gentle, where do I start to track it down.

    And she was doing so well, too (her name is Cutty, from House - though the drinkin' kind comes to mind right now)

  2. #2
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    Nov 2008
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    Was it the switch itself which popped? Did it fall apart inside and short? If so, it should be an easy fix. The switch is a pretty standard part.

    Pop it apart and see what happened.

  3. #3
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    Hi Dan,

    I'm sorry, was too flabbergasted to be coherent. When I flipped the switch, there was a loud electrical POP, like the loudest breaker popping.

  4. #4
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    Sounds more like a capacitor on a circuit board popped. I guess you have to dive into the power supply and look for the exploded component. At least you should be able to visually find the problem.

  5. #5
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    NE PA USA
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    Default

    So I too think something like the X Termination board took a dump and ejected the smoke from some of the parts....

    I don't have any good pictures but if I remember right it is just a 2 wire switch....

    You could un plug the wires from the switch with the machine un plugged and measure the switch with a ohm meter and see if it went bad.

    Any chance it was a discharge from a dust collector where a ground fell off?....

    AL
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  6. #6
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    Jun 2013
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    First chance to work on her since the pop.

    OK, the machine powers up. I ran the cut motor test, and the machine says it's running, but it is silent.


    There is a new x-termination board, less than 20 hrs. Looks nice and pretty - no burns. Is there an Ohm measurement we should be looking for, open/closed?

    New cut motor, less than 20 hrs.

    There is a bypass to the motor, and it is reading 62 volts, same as all other times we measured and

    There is continuity through the motor.

    No burns on the power supply.

    Not sure what else to check.

  7. #7
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    There is a rant simmering, I will attempt to not let it overflow during this post.

    Thank heavens we are not afraid to take this puppy apart and explore, or I would be needlessly sending a motor back, paying shipping both ways for a manufacturing defect. The second defective motor we have had. Quality control is a real issue here.

    We opened the motor and the loose wire in the picture was no longer in the in the crimp on connector. We had to use needle nose tweezers to get the connector out of the seat - that was a tough pull.

    You can see in the first picture that the crimp marks on the loose wire barely hit the insulation, and there is no mark up where it's twin is crimped.

    Apparently it just vibrated loose over the past 20 hrs on the motor.

    Well...I just went to check the progress on of the reassembly.. The motor is still almost silent, there is a faint whine but the motor is not turning.

    Could that wire coming loose have caused something else to go bad? What do we test? There is voltage all the way to the motor. There is .3ohm from the x-term to the motor.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Crappy crimp.JPG   Crappy crimp2.JPG   Crimp Connection.JPG  

  8. #8
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    I put a known good motor into the beast, and same results. Someone here must have done all of the continuity and voltage mapping so that we do not have to replace every card in the darn thing searching for a culprit. We will be once we get the dang thing running again.

    There are no burnt capacitors or resistors on any of the visible boards. From what we can trace out, all the resistance and voltages make sense.

  9. #9
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    What about the "POP". That has to mean something. Was the pop from inside the machine?

  10. #10
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    Hi Dan,

    Yes, it sounded like inside. Butch thinks he has the answer... we are going to talk through the path, and I will post results.

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