Little help needed

[2A Finishing]

Ok, I'm making a 2 piece box with lid - Two issues - #1, how can I optimize my design for a faster cut? (Upload in draft mode) #2, and this is the main issue - For some reason (and I can't figure out why), the center carve area (deeper than the larger carve area) for my lid doesn't show as being carved in my designer program the same way the box bottom does. Will it carve out properly as is, or is there something I am doing wrong here?

MPC attached, using Designer 3 with the following : * Version 3 Standalone * Advanced 3D * Conforming Vectors * Dxf Import * Pattern Editor (Probe) * Basic

sgvboxtest1.mpc

[bergerud]

Use clip exclusive on the rectangle and the carving underneath will come through. (The max pass on the box is only 1/16". I would go 1/4")

It is a strange way to make a box. Let us know how it goes!

[mtylerfl]

I'm having a lot of trouble trying to figure out your layout and what you intend for the finished piece. The preview shows voids all the way across the board, which will cause pressure roller issues (i.e., rollers will "drop" into the voids halting the project). So, that's something that needs correction.

Also, I don't know why you are not using the Cut Path tool to cut out the box perimeters...EDIT: SORRY, I see you ARE using the Cut Path tool...but still, the placement/layout of the box likely needs correction. The following statement is N/A...It appears you are just using the tapered carving bit which will yield a rough outside finish and introduce a 7-degree angle around the perimeter, as well. So, that likely needs to be changed as well.

Usually, the longest part of a box is aligned with the grain of the wood. The layout appears to have it cross-grained. Now, I don't know if you are using a jig to correct that, or if you are planning on cutting the box out of a solid material like Corian or MDF, but maybe you want to re-think the layout if you are using "grained wood".

Perhaps some more info about your design would be helpful.

[SteveNelson46]

Ok, I'm making a 2 piece box with lid - Two issues - #1, how can I optimize my design for a faster cut? (Upload in draft mode) #2, and this is the main issue - For some reason (and I can't figure out why), the center carve area (deeper than the larger carve area) for my lid doesn't show as being carved in my designer program the same way the box bottom does. Will it carve out properly as is, or is there something I am doing wrong here?

MPC attached, using Designer 3 with the following : * Version 3 Standalone * Advanced 3D * Conforming Vectors * Dxf Import * Pattern Editor (Probe) * Basic

sgvboxtest1.mpc

This should help. I redrew your box, eliminated the rectangles for the corners, and made the board a little larger.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Just a WAG... Wild AL Guess.... Any chance this is a case of the wood is popping out from under 1 roller and raising up into the bit making the carve region deeper? Is the deeper area 3.5 inches from the end of the physical board.

I am not sure what your wood setup looks like. A picture would be good.

AL

[aokweld101]

I used Steve's pattern and just made a simple cut pattern and assigned a 1/8 bit a .25 per pass at,.6 depth. It will give you a idea on how to do this.

[2A Finishing]

Just now getting out to the shop, to answer the easiest ones first, yes it's supposed to be cross grained (style thing), the intent is to house battery powered electronics, but the "what" is much less important than the "how", also I'll probably be making some that go with the grain as well, but I wanted to cut the first few across the grain to confirm the strength of the design and see if I needed to make the walls thicker or not. The carve will be done with a rail to prevent roller issues, or else I'll adjust my pattern to account for rails (haven't decided yet), and yes there is a 3.5" space on either side of the carve. I noticed that the 1/16" max pass depth was resulting in longer than necessary carves, but I am cutting acacia glue-ups (backsplash to be precise) and didn't want to risk breaking my already somewhat dull bit, however .25" shouldn't be too much stress on it. I didn't run into pop-up problems, but I did run into roller stall issues on the first test carve (that resulted in the redesign here, but I didn't include the rails - still studying on sled/rail/carrier design and usage - any tips are welcome)

[2A Finishing]

Just a WAG... Wild AL Guess.... Any chance this is a case of the wood is popping out from under 1 roller and raising up into the bit making the carve region deeper? Is the deeper area 3.5 inches from the end of the physical board.

I am not sure what your wood setup looks like. A picture would be good.

AL

Actually I'm carving out very nicely - Here's the result from before a few pattern modifications I had to make, anyway. As you can see, I left out the corner supports that will be hand drilled to accept magnets to hold the lid on securely. I also had to modify the lid to clear the internals (IMR 18650 batteries and other bits)

[2A Finishing]

Here's an updated mpc showing where I took your advices - I think I'm on the right track, as far as conserving wood, keeping my carves off the edges eliminating the need for rails, and "adhering to custom" and carving with the grain (though I can still do glue-ups and rotate the board to make my horizontal grain boxes or just rotate the pattern again) - I do also plan to shift the patterns further towards the center of the board or tape on end-spacers to allow for the rollers.

[2A Finishing]

ok my pattern idea didn't work out - but I know where I went wrong, and how to fix it thanks to you all. updated mpc - Thank you all for your help again.