Dovetails

[mtylerfl]

Funny, this idea came to me early one morning sitting on the porch during my first cup of coffee. Totally out of the blue, it came. I made a quick perspective sketch so I wouldn't forget the setup, then designed the layout in the software and cut it that afternoon (actually, I cut the first panel that morning...still had to figure out the mating panel layout and did that in the afternoon).

[aokweld101]

yes Micheal, nice job of coarse, don't want you to think I have my hand out waiting on your pattern but I would like to understand your concept.

[bergerud]

Finally, I have the CW making real dovetails. Half blind ones like the router jigs make. Two days with many tries.

The tail end is made with the 3/16" carving bit. It has desirable straight sides. The cost is large radii in the corners but that is taken care of with the 1/16" carving bit on the pin end. Also, I used a 9/16" thick Designer board when the real board was only 1/2". This was to get the ball of the 3/16" carving bit below the board.

I used a regular 1/2" dovetail bit for the pin end. I picked the 3/16" cutting bit in the software and then loaded the dovetail bit instead. Unfortunately this is the largest bit, I think, which does not "automatically" make multiple passes. (Learned that on the first try choosing the 1/2" straight bit.) So, to make it easier on the machine, I carved out some of the material with the carving bit first.

I used my carrier bases so that I could stay under the rollers even though I was cutting on the board ends.

It is not quite perfect, but really close.

[fwharris]

The fit looks real good. I think you have the cat skinned on this one!

[zan29]

That's awesome Dan!

[mtylerfl]

Very cool, Dan! Nice technique and beautiful joint!

[henry1]

Man I like that beautiful joint!

[aokweld101]

Another job well done, it is one I will have to put in Dan's corner of the shop....

[bergerud]

I was so impressed with Michael's box joints (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthr...123#post250123), I had to steal the idea see what I could do with it. The thing to notice is that the joints are all machined on the face of the boards as opposed to the ends like most joints. This means that the CW can easily make them. It does mean the pins are weak because of the grain direction, but that just means one has to use good, hard wood. Once it is all glued together, it will not matter.

My plan was to inlay strips of wood into the slots left in the sides. But after making this prototype out of old shelf material, I like the color contrast and the pins that can be seen in the slot. Maybe I may use some contrasting wood. The idea, like most boxes, is to glue it all together, finish the faces and edges, and then cut off the lid.

I think this is a great basis for a box. One can carve whatever one wants on the faces- router the edges. (note, however, the front and top would have be double sided projects.) Add whatever type of hinge or lock, and so on.

I will finish this box but I plan to come back to this with some more exotic wood. Maybe jewelry boxes for the granddaughters next Christmas.

Here is a file with the parts. You only need a sharp 1/8" cutting bit.

[CNC Carver]

Wonderful work that will make very nice dovetails.
Jeff