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Thread: Bit question

  1. #1

    Default Bit question

    Hi, I was wondering if anyone uses bits from other sources? If so, how do you press them into the carvetight adaptors?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
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    8,193

  3. #3

    Default

    When you say - Rock users, is that a Co. that supplies bits?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
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    8,193

    Default

    The Rock refers to the Rock Chuck. It was a chuck made by a user, Ron Justice, to replace the problematic Quick Chuck before the CarveTight came along. He seems now to be out of business. The Rock is lower below the truck and this has caused problems with bit lengths.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Greenfield, Massachusetts, United States
    Posts
    66

    Default

    Raye321, If you have the CarveTight on your machine, there are loads of second party bits available at very reasonable prices. Most of my bits are around $20 with $2 shipping charge. I get most of them from drillman on eBAy. He is located in Texas but I get them here in New England in just a couple of days. If you are using the CarveTight, you will need sleeves to fit and here I am at a loss as I used to get terrific sleeves from cw-parts.com who now it seems, is out of business. If you don't use the CarveTight chuck, I would suggest that upgrade. It has added more reliability to my carvings. (and I can get cheap bits!)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Vancouver Island
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    8,193

    Default

    You should give the CT adapters a try. They can be easily switched with a propane torch.

  7. #7

    Default

    I do have the carvetight chuck on my machine. I use the 1/8" cutting bit. I found a Yonico 1/8" dia. bit on amazon. 2 flute. Will a 2 flute work ok?
    I have 3 or 4 carvetight adapters from previous broken bits. I was able to tap the broken bits out without too much problem using a center punch. But getting a new one in might be tricky. How would I use heat to get the new one in? Put the adapter in a vise then apply some heat, the new bit should tap in easy? How about an acetylene torch? I have a really small tip for brazing that can be adjusted to a soft flame.
    Also, when I'm looking for bits: They should be upcut bit? I have been looking on ebay but almost all the CNC bits seem to be 1/8" shanks.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Vancouver Island
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    8,193

    Default

    Two flute is good. I like two flute bits. The CT adapters do not have to get very hot to slip on and off. Only a few seconds with a propane torch. Careful with acetylene, you do not want to over heat the adapters. I gently put the bit vertical in a vise with the shank up to the depth I want the adapter to go. Heat up the adapter (after a few, one gets the timing right), pick it up with some tongs, (pliers) and drop it on the bit. Some gentle tapping may be required if it is not quite hot enough. It really is easy and works well.

    The bit shanks do have to have a precise diameter as most carbide bits do. Adapters and bits do vary a little. After a few one gets a feel for it. One can also measure and compare to a CW bit to make sure. We are talking ten thousandths here.

  9. #9

    Default

    In addition to the number of flutes there is the helix angle of the bit that can be very important. There was an issue a while back where the helix angle on the 1/8" cutting bit changed and it resulted in severe overheating. I used two flute bits myself in the ER11 adapter (which I highly recommend). But I would advise caution in testing new bits to check for things like over heating.

  10. #10

    Default

    So upcut is the type to use? The Yonico bit is not as long as the cw bits. Do I need to get the exact length right or does the machine compensate for a shorter bit?
    Another question: I have had the machine for about 4 years. I do only one operation, which is lettering on a 2.5" width x 26" board- soft wood with a design on each end. For example: The word Welcome centered in the middle and a house on each end. Depth is 1/8". It does not carve like v type of cut, it just cleans out the area to form the letter or design. Suddenly it has been breaking bits. I have gone through 3 bits. Each one has broken as it starts the project, it barely touches the wood and breaks. So the wood has about a 1/16" depth point where it touched down then maybe about a 1/4" lateral mark before it breaks. Could it be the head pressure is too low. I checked it and it measured about 68-70 lbs (I have the sandpaper drive) I have been able to get it up to around 84-85 but am apprehensive about trying it on another $40+ bit. Think the low head pressure would break bits?

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