Has anybody tried to finish or detail-paint a carving using water paints an if so how did they come out.
Just thought that I could have the kids (older) detail carvings before sealing them. Don't want to use expensive dies.
Thanks for any help.
Lee
Has anybody tried to finish or detail-paint a carving using water paints an if so how did they come out.
Just thought that I could have the kids (older) detail carvings before sealing them. Don't want to use expensive dies.
Thanks for any help.
Lee
Pop's Fix It Shop, We won't make it any worse.. Using "A" machines 1.187 1.188 ,2.007, 3.103
2 Machines no waiting.
Lee, acrylic craft paints works great... they are water based and easy accessible at a craft store . They work best if you give your board a light coat of clear...water base brush on or rattle can top coat before applying the acrylic paint. And with children it is best to use something that come off them easily or their mother might object.
I agree, acrylics work great after sealing, then use a finish coat after their painting. Regularly do some just for the little ones to paint in my shop. Have learned to have them put on one of my old shirts backwards as a smock. Have found the hard way that some of the acrylic paints are hard to get out of certain clothing when it really dries. My helpers vary in age so the finished products definitely have quality ranges but who cares, they have fun and I have a blast just being involved.
Rick H
Thank You For your reply's I would like to save cost on stains and let them go with their ideas. Thanks.
Seal before or after staining?
Thanks
Lee
Pop's Fix It Shop, We won't make it any worse.. Using "A" machines 1.187 1.188 ,2.007, 3.103
2 Machines no waiting.
Lee, if you are going to stain the project do it first. Then a light coat of clear, paint with acrylics, seal finished project. All your stain, acrylic, sealer needs to be water based. A lot depends on your design but just letting them paint their project, without the stain, would be my choice.
I've found that these real milk paint sample colors work good: http://shop.realmilkpaint.com/search?q=sample+paint
I mix them with mineral spirits and paint them on. When it's dry it will leave a chalky type of material on the wood and so I rub the excess off with a little brush or paper towel. And then I spray a few coats of polyurethane finish on it to seal it in. Then kind of buff it out with a brilo type sanding pad to smooth it out and then maybe some wipe on poly to get a glossy finish. All the colors of the real milk paints are kind of woodsy rustic type colors. And you can do it as thick as you want. They can be used over finish also.
I've also used india ink dye but find that it's kind of dark. If I water it down a little then it doesn't lay flat as well on the wood. It will tend to pool.
Alan,
Those look really nice. I have never used any milk paint but after seeing these, I may have to look into it. Thanks for showing us these.
Mike
All Gave Some,
Some Gave All.
My computer configuration and software used:
Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3 Motherboard, AMD FX 6-core Processor Black Edition, 32 Gig DDR 3 Ram, Gigabyte HD 6450 Video Card with 1 Gig DDR 3 ram, Windows 10
Designer 2.007, Designer 3.102, Pattern Editor, Centerline, Conforming Vectors, 2d Tools, 3d Tools, DXF Importer, STL Importer and Rotary Jig.
Alan,
Thank you for the tips on finishing using the milk paints, etc. It sure does come out nice - I love the rustic, vintage appearance on your projects shown.
Michael T
Happy Carving!
╔═══ Links to Patterns & Resources for CompuCarve™ & CarveWright™ ═══╗
Did you use the milk paint on just the read areas or is the whole carve covered with different color milk paints?
Donnie
I used a few greens and yellows and browns. After applying polyurethane finish I spray painted with walnut brown and wiped it off with a rag and mineral spirits to get the antique look.