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Thread: The Universal Carrier Base

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Vancouver Island
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    That is a little strange. The touch hole should line up just before the roller drops. I made the touch hole where I thought the machine naturally goes. Now I think another 1/4" further down may have been better. I copied the placement I used on the poor man's carrier. This may be a thing to tweak.

  2. #42
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    Nov 2008
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    Vancouver Island
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    Since all machines are a little different, I was originally making the touch hole elongated. Then I figured the elongated hole was too hard to make (especially in the 1/2" side) and thought that jogging to a drill hole was not so bad. (It seemed that forcing the user to jog was good because a z stall will result if the touch hole is missed.)

    More experimenting has to be done on this but it seems that, when using place on center, each machine naturally goes to the same spot to load the bit. It moves the board close to where the front roller is about to drop. This is a bit of a variable and I am not sure it always does it.

    Steve, what do you think about just removing the stop block on the front? Cut it off so it is the same as the 1.5 X 1.5 bock at the back. Then find the "sweet" spot where the front of the board should go so the the machine automatically lines up at the front touch hole for the bit load. One could then mark it on the carrier. After that, lining up the front of the board with the mark would automatically cause the touch hole to line up later. (I would stiil set the user options to Jog (Always) so that one always makes the visual check before pressing Enter)

    I am starting to think the stop block is more trouble than it is worth and I wish I had removed it from the design. It also stops one from sliding boards out of the front, and I think sliding boards out the front is going to be a useful thing to do. The carrier would be more versatile without it.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Tucson, Arizona
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    2,401

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    Dan,

    Actually, I'm not having any problems now that I have made the touch hole a little larger but, your suggestion may make the jig even more useful so I'm willing to give it a try.

    I just finished another slight modification that seems to make it even easier to load a board. I bought a short piece of 3/8" ID copper tubing and cut two pieces to a length of 1 1/4" (the thickness of the side plus the stop block). Then I enlarged the holes where the all-thread went through the right side to a 1/2" diameter (that is the exact outside diameter of the tubing) and tapped them in with a rubber mallet. The fit was so tight that I didn't even have to use an adhesive. This allowed the rods to slide much easier. Now, all I do to insert a board is to adjust the height using my rabbeted block, use a clamp to squeeze the sides together and snug up the nuts.
    Last edited by SteveNelson46; 05-22-2015 at 02:15 PM. Reason: Grammer
    Steve

  4. #44
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    Nov 2008
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    Vancouver Island
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveNelson46 View Post
    Dan,

    This allowed the rods to slide much easier.
    Nice. (I was just looking at those aluminum tubes on the CW rotary jig the other day. Hmm.)

  5. #45

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    I know this is a newbie question; but I downloaded the project file from the CW website after I got the download keys...when I go to manage licenses it says it's on my machine but when I try to open a new project it doesnt show up in favorites or basic how do you open a project?

  6. #46
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    Nov 2008
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    Vancouver Island
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    This is not a pattern, it is a project. You downloaded a zip file I think. In the zip file there will be .pdf and .mpc files. You have to unzip it and then open the mpc in Designer.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    League City, Tx
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    129

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    Another Newbie question. Can I just measure a board in this jig? I just completed it and am checking it out. Getting alot of edge detect errors.

    I like it, just having trouble kicking the tires, sort of speak.

    Bergerud, Thanks for all your hard work.
    Don

  8. #48
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    Nov 2008
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    Vancouver Island
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    You can just measure the board. You have to measure the width where the sides are black and the board has to stick up 1/8" above the sides. Are you following the procedure in the instructions?

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    League City, Tx
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    129

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    As best I can. I have tried what you have suggested. Will try again thank you.

    It worked for a measurement, think I was confused as to how to put the board in the UCB. Will try a project. Thanks
    Don

  10. #50
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Deep in the woods of Maine
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    388

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    So how does this work? Does it measure the length of the board or the entire jig? I thought I saw the ends of the jig tapered in on the end. I guess I don't understand that part. Doesn't the jig have to lose contact with the brass roller during the measuring process? Is this witchcraft? Also, does the board go into the carrier in the center or on an end?
    -Jason

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