Page 11 of 29 FirstFirst ... 91011121321 ... LastLast
Results 101 to 110 of 285

Thread: The Universal Carrier Base

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,193

    Default

    If you would like to make the one I sent to the conference, go to:

    http://forum.carvewright.com/showthr...053#post247053

    It is for 5/8" thick but you can change it to 1/2". It does not have the stop blocks and the touch blocks are a little higher. It also has the side clamping slots which is a feature of the Advanced Carrier Base.

    BUT, you have to find out why you are braking bits! I think something may be wrong with your machine. If I recall, you broke the bit on a very shallow pass.

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Hereford, AZ
    Posts
    236

    Default

    How does the side clamping slots work? Really interested in 2 sided carves. I would like to make the ACB but wondering how the advanced part works.

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,193

    Default

    For double sided carves, the rails are smooth so the board can slide in and out. (No sand paper or the rails flipped over so sand paper is down.) The rails are adjusted so that the board is slightly below the carrier sides. Shims are put under the board to raise it the 1/8" for the measurement stage. After the measurement, the shims are removed and the board dropped back down as the head is cranked down. The side clamps produce the friction to hold the board from moving during the measuring and the carving. The board can be removed at will without lifting the head by simply releasing the clamps and sliding the board out. (With the stop blocks removed from the design, the board comes out the front.)

    The advantage of all of this is that, since the board is measured only once, the x line up of a double sided carve will be exact. When the board is flipped over, it is slid back in to exactly the same x position. (Up against a stop bolt in a side hole.)

    The y line up is another matter and is the subject of my ongoing experiments. The mpc has to be split into two separate projects and so on. It is complicated and one wrong button press can mean having to start all over again. If I had found a simple way to do it, it would have been incorporated into the UCB.

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Hereford, AZ
    Posts
    236

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bergerud View Post
    For double sided carves, the rails are smooth so the board can slide in and out. (No sand paper or the rails flipped over so sand paper is down.) The rails are adjusted so that the board is slightly below the carrier sides. Shims are put under the board to raise it the 1/8" for the measurement stage. After the measurement, the shims are removed and the board dropped back down as the head is cranked down. The side clamps produce the friction to hold the board from moving during the measuring and the carving. The board can be removed at will without lifting the head by simply releasing the clamps and sliding the board out. (With the stop blocks removed from the design, the board comes out the front.)

    The advantage of all of this is that, since the board is measured only once, the x line up of a double sided carve will be exact. When the board is flipped over, it is slid back in to exactly the same x position. (Up against a stop bolt in a side hole.)

    The y line up is another matter and is the subject of my ongoing experiments. The mpc has to be split into two separate projects and so on. It is complicated and one wrong button press can mean having to start all over again. If I had found a simple way to do it, it would have been incorporated into the UCB.
    Are the clamps themselves included in the mpc or does one need to make them or buy them?

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,193

    Default

    The clamp is just more ready rod, nuts, washers, and a knob.

    Note the slot in the carrier board. The clamp does a double duty. (Notice the stop bolt.)

    Edit: this is a subject for the other Experimental Carrier Board thread
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails P1010214.JPG   P1010215.JPG   P1010212.JPG  
    Last edited by bergerud; 07-12-2015 at 04:16 PM.

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Hereford, AZ
    Posts
    236

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bergerud View Post
    The clamp is just more ready rod, nuts, washers, and a knob.

    Note the slot in the carrier board. The clamp does a double duty. (Notice the stop bolt.)

    Edit: this is a subject for the other Experimental Carrier Board thread
    Great I understand now. The clamp just brings the sides in tighter to clamp the piece tight between the sides. My brain was thinking the clamp was going to clamp the board to the rails.

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NLR. Arkansas
    Posts
    642

    Default

    just ordered the universal base carrier, may be a week or so before i can get it carved, but looks very promising
    steve
    Start U Member

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Hereford, AZ
    Posts
    236

    Default

    Since I have started using the shims the carves are great, no lines in the carve but I have noticed that my cut outs are about 1/8 from being cut out. I ran the test for depth and it came back being over an inch for 3/4" board. I then thought I would calibrate the depth but got an error. Can't remember exactly what the error said but can rerun the test and let you know what it said if you need be. I know it said something about being out of range. Any thoughts on why the cut out is not being cut out?
    Thanks for your insight.

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,193

    Default

    I do cutouts all the time without a problem. The depth is determined by the touch on the board and the project board thickness. What is the message you get after the right touch block touch?

    One can also take off both touch blocks. The machine will bob through the hole and then air bob three times on the right. It will then ask if the sliding plate is in place, answer Yes and it will ask for the board thickness. (The only problem with operating this way is that sometimes, one gets a board too thick error after the air bob on the left.)

    Truth be told, I made the touch blocks a little low. All machines are different and I did not want the blocks to be too high for anyone (Maybe yours is too high.) With the blocks low, the machine just operates as if the board was on a thin sled. I figured this was better than the problems caused by the machine thinking the board was too thin. If one really wanted the touch blocks to be accurate for their machine, they should tweak the height of the right touch block to agree with the height of their sliding plate. Machine depth calibration should be done normally with the sliding plate and then the jig made to agree.

    To make the jig agree, put a board in the machine. Put the bit on the board and turn on the machine. Go to the z sensor data. It will read 0.000. Now move the bit over and touch it to the sliding plate. Record the number. Now put the same board in the carrier and repeat the procedure. The difference between the two numbers is the thickness of shim you need to make. Make it out of a small piece of hardwood and glue it on to the touch block.

    I have to say, however, that for most people, making the touch block agree with the machine is not worth the trouble. The only advantage that I see is in the one case where you put in a board which is thicker than your project board and you let the machine decide on the cut through thickness.

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Hereford, AZ
    Posts
    236

    Default

    I don't get a message after the right touch block touch. IT never asks whether I want the board or the project depth. The machine at times would ask when I didn't use the shim but it hasn't since I started using the shims. The boards I am using are the same stock I normally use and are 3/4".

Page 11 of 29 FirstFirst ... 91011121321 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •