That does seem like a lot to pay. Did I see stainless?
That does seem like a lot to pay. Did I see stainless?
Soke pieces yes. The t bolts, and wing nuts they only had in stainless (around $3 ea or pair) and the furniture screws they didn't carry anything close to what I saw in the picture besides grade 8 bolts. After sifting through for about an hour me and the wife finally decided to just get what was available and move on. Couldn't find any 5/8 mdf. Thinking of doing the mpc you mentioned for the 5/8 on my 3/4 pieces I already have but assigning a carve region. It any thoughts come to mind let me know, I have some a decent # of 14" carvings to do w a cutoff date, intent is to use this jig to get them done. To side step waste of materials and time. Thanks again.
-Paul
"The secret to getting ahead is getting started." -Mark Twain
I am not sure you can use 3/4" MDF for the sides if you want to hold 14" wide boards. You may have to go with 1/2". With 1/2" , the touch hole may be a weak spot. (I suppose you do not even need the touch stuff for 14" wide boards.)
I thought those furniture bolts were everywhere. (Just Google furniture bolts). I just thought they were handy. Low profile, wide heads and the CT Allen key fits. Really, any bolts will do. There are many ways to make the thing besides what I did.
Dan, I have all intentions to build your rotary jig, I am to set my piorities I have a water leak somewhere between the house inlet and the street I have the yard tore up trying to find it and going inbetween the rain drops has'nt been easy....and having one leg to get around on... but as soon as I can I am going to build it..
Last edited by aokweld101; 04-14-2015 at 09:44 AM. Reason: more text
I have one assembled. Just not sure about where to put the black marks and witch holes to use on the little touch blocks (if they drill without a tracking issue). What height are they supposed to be, as in 1/4" higher/lower than the inside rails?
Brent
A,B machines, PE,probe,conforming vectors, centerline, 2d,3d,stl and dfx imprt, rotary , 3.xx, Pattern Sculptor
OS X Yosemite
Woodwork is what I do to pay for my tool addiction.
Just use some black electrical tape about where I put it. It is not to important where as long as you put the black under the board sensor when you first clamp it down. On the touch blocks, there are two holes. One goes through for the bolt, the other is a blind hole for a dowel stub and it goes on the bottom. The higher block is for the sliding plate side. You may want to later tweak the heights of these blocks to match your machine.
Last edited by bergerud; 04-14-2015 at 12:57 PM. Reason: sp
Thanks Dan,
I will work on it while carving first litho on your rotary.
I am thinking of slotting the bottom and using downdraft.
Brent
A,B machines, PE,probe,conforming vectors, centerline, 2d,3d,stl and dfx imprt, rotary , 3.xx, Pattern Sculptor
OS X Yosemite
Woodwork is what I do to pay for my tool addiction.
Do you mean down draft on the rotary? I do not think that will work. The rotary shavings are long and stringy and will surely glog the slots. There is also vacuum loss between the bottom of the jig and the belts as well as under the belts.
Easy, however, to try if you already have a downdraft system.
I have a down draft set up but never use it for the reasons you just mentioned.
On the CW I will just take the GROUNDED 4" hose off and stick it in loosely to get some of the shavings. Yours at least keeps them contained.
Here is the sled ready for testing, rotary and first litho.
Brent
A,B machines, PE,probe,conforming vectors, centerline, 2d,3d,stl and dfx imprt, rotary , 3.xx, Pattern Sculptor
OS X Yosemite
Woodwork is what I do to pay for my tool addiction.
Sweet. You have made my day!