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Thread: Experimental Board Carrier

  1. #11
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    Another idea is to turn it into a vise. As it is, the minimum board length is 6 inches as is for the CW machine. At least one roller must be applying pressure at all times to hold the board. I cannot, for example put a 4 inch long board in the carrier as it will have no downward force on it when it is between the rollers.

    A long threaded bolt or two which squeezes the sides of the jig together could clamp the board independent of the roller pressure. The length of the board would not matter. (This would also allow boards to be slipped in and out without raising the head.)

  2. #12
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    Success. The strips work well. I made them a little thinner than the 1/4" so they are easy to slip in and out. (I also used the strips when measuring the width.) Goodby to the 7 inch rule!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails P1000868.JPG  

  3. #13
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    I've broken the 7" rule in the past- placing carving on end and not "keeping under rollers" leaving about an inch from the side to not cause too much vibration during cutting. I found that occasionally it results in a line step down in my carves - pretty sure it's from that (the duration of time carving not under the roller. Haven't 100% confirmed it but something to keep an eye out for.. Having trouble uploading image from phone
    -Paul
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  4. #14
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    Very Nice !!!
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  5. #15
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    Thanks Al.


    Quote Originally Posted by PSQRD View Post
    I've broken the 7" rule in the past- placing carving on end and not "keeping under rollers" leaving about an inch from the side to not cause too much vibration during cutting. I found that occasionally it results in a line step down in my carves - pretty sure it's from that (the duration of time carving not under the roller. Haven't 100% confirmed it but something to keep an eye out for.. Having trouble uploading image from phone
    That line in the carving is because the roller pushes the board down changing the carving depth a little. That is not such a big deal. My jig will not do that as there is no change in roller pressure on the jig when the roller rolls off the end of the board onto the strips.

    The big deal is when cutting. When the board is tracking back and forth as the bit cuts, the brass roller has to keep correcting for the slippage and for the back lash involved in changing directions. If a roller drops, the brass roller goes offline. Precise tracking control is lost and bad things happen. The brass roller can also, I think, be also screwed up from the vibration of cutting. I am hoping that my jig can eliminate both of these problems.

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    Sooooo... What cost are you looking at for the hardware? I may need to build three or four of those. That is the best carrier board I've seen yet.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by TerryT View Post
    Sooooo... What cost are you looking at for the hardware? I may need to build three or four of those. That is the best carrier board I've seen yet.
    Thanks Terry. The parts are pretty cheap. Some furniture bolts and T nuts. I used a T slot router bit on my router table for the two slots in the base. I was thinking of using aluminum slots in my next one. So either buy T slots or a router bit (if you have a router that is). It can be made any length but, out of MDF, it is heavy. Maybe birch plywood would be better.

    I think I will try another one out of MDF and then think about making a nice one.

  8. #18
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    Like that berg and can save on lumber and bergarud would you share the measurement, and the jig you made, how big of wood or long was it made for
    Last edited by henry1; 03-22-2015 at 06:53 PM.
    Henry

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  9. #19

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    I like the trick about fooling the machine into thinking it is hitting the sliding plate. My go-to sled has a 3/4" base and I have to enter the depth on cut through projects because it can't find the plate. If I extended the base beyond the far rail of my sled and undercut it say 1/4" to clear the sliding plate, I believe the machine would touch the base and register the correct board thickness without the bobbing and my need to enter it. Sweet.

  10. #20
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    The sliding plate thing is tricky. If one measures the actual board width, then the bob which would go through the hole in the sliding plate goes into the side of the jig. That is why the hole is drilled in the side. But then one has to jog to touch to line up the hole. One would need a few holes for different length boards (jogging can only go so far). I think I will have to give up measuring the actual board width. It is not worth it. If instead, I just measure the jig width, I can have a rail along the side to copy the sliding plate.

    I have been working on being able to slide the board out in the middle of a double sided carve. I flipped the sandpaper rails over and added a clamp. With the shims a little higher than the board, I can easily unclamp the board and slide it out without moving the head. In my few tests, the x always lined up perfect. (My y offset has reverted to the default again and so the y was not so good. I have to recalibrate again.)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails P1000869.JPG  

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