Changing the depth of cut in centerline.

[cjudas]

I was carving a sign last night using centerline and it seemed to be carving VERY deep so I stopped it. Is there a way to adjust the depth? I will try to attach what I was carving so someone can look at it. I have a new machine with 2.007 and was using a 60* bit.

[FWMiller]

Switch to a 90 degree bit. That will reduce depth while keeping same surface dimensions.

[SteveNelson46]

I was carving a sign last night using centerline and it seemed to be carving VERY deep so I stopped it. Is there a way to adjust the depth? I will try to attach what I was carving so someone can look at it. I have a new machine with 2.007 and was using a 60* bit.

There is no way to adjust the depth of a centerline cut other than changing the bit. The 60 degree bit will cut deeper than the 90 degree bit. Here's why. All fonts are made up of at least 2 lines. Centerline will travel down the center between the lines and the V bit will plunge to a depth that is deep enough to fill the space between the lines. The 90 degree bit is wider so a shallower depth is needed to fill the space. One trick you can use is to assign the 90 degree bit in the software but, actually use the 60 degree bit. This may help a little. Another way is to use a third party program to convert the text into vector lines. Then you can assign a bit to any depth but, you may have problems with the double lines.

[FWMiller]

I've tried using a 60 degree bit when the software was asking for a 90 and the results weren't very good. Best bet is to just use the 90.

[DocWheeler]

Although I do not have that font on my computer, I have some thoughts to add.
The font that the mpc defaulted to showed a large "L" whose body was so wide that it had a raised center, not sure what to do there.

Beyond changing bits you have several options to try:
1. Select Bold or Normal.
2. Tell the machine to use the 60 degree bit but insert the 90 degree bit (makes wider cuts).
3. Tell the machine to use the 90 degree bit but insert the 60 degree bit (makes narrower cuts).
4. Place something (shim) on the board where it touches the board to establish depth so it carves shallower.
5. A combination of some of the above.

[mtylerfl]

Another workaround...create a very shallow carve region (perhaps no more than 1/64" or so) where the lettering will be. Don't make it too deep and don't use conform vectors (if you have that). The v-carve will be performed as if it is carving on the surface of the board, and result in a shallower carve due to the carve region recess.

This is a crude hack and a "not-highly-recommended" method (by me), since it could result in some parts of letters missing and/or distort the letters too much. But, if you don't go too crazy on the depth of the carve region, it might look fine depending upon the font. No reason not to experiment though. The onscreen preview should give you an idea what it will look like before you waste any wood.

[cjudas]

I think I will go with the 90 although I think the 60 makes a crisper, more defined letter. Thank you all for the input. There are a total of 6 name signs that are hung in a row I have to do, hope it comes out like I planned. LOL

[Digitalwoodshop]

I've tried using a 60 degree bit when the software was asking for a 90 and the results weren't very good. Best bet is to just use the 90.

Using a V60 bit when the text was designed in V90 and calls for a V90 will result in letters like a "I" look like two "Y's" one up side down...

How do I know this...

AL

[CaptainGeorge]

I found my answer!!! Thank you to everyone who contacted me. Someone, I'm old and can't remember who it was, said to tell the program one this and use another bit. I thought about that and it made sense, but I took it one step further. I took a couple of the plastic spacers with me to the local "ACE" and bought some tubing the same size, I then cut a piece 1/2" long and put it on the bit. I then let the machine do it's thing and then just before it was going to start carving the letters I lifted the cover and then switched the spacer to a 1/4" spacer and let the machine go. It worked perfectly. I got just what I was looking for. I was surprised someone did not tell me to do that in the beginning. Thanks again to all you who answered.

[DickB]

Doc's suggestion #4 is equivalent to what you did.