Trials and tribulations of a new user.......

[Sconi]

Was doing OK with my machine after years on not really using it, then carved a two sided frame - the second one (broke the first while sanding it ) and it didn't match up on the flip, and was over the 3.5 inch extra board at the end so it was a three sided frame........

As long as I'm looking for solutions, my machine squawks when measuring a board and the cutting bit is getting so hot it's turning blue - note everything I've done so far are pre made patterns by others.......

Starting to get a little frustrated.

mjc

[Digitalwoodshop]

Squawks when measuring usually machine needs a good cleaning... and possible head pressure too high.... is machine COLD?

Bit Blue? If you have a old QC then the QC Chuck and or the Bit holders are shot and the bit is flopping around... See picture of BB Marks in the bit holder.

Also was it a multi pass cut a little at a time or full depth...

Was is oak?

Also it could be the 2 bearings in the Y Gearbox.

In my picture of the blue bit, I at the time blamed the designer change or upgrade... I was WRONG... In the small picture you can see the BB Marks on the blue bit.... The bit was blue from flopping around....

AL

[CW-HAL9000]

cutting bit getting hot, are you taking your cuts in one deep cut or are you doing them in passes. You should be setting your cut outs at no more than .250 per pass. the match up on the flip, are you using a sled I always use a mdf sled with masking tape on both sides and one strip down the middle. The 3.5 inches needs to be at both ends. This is were the sled helps to save wood. As far as squaking when measuring. Check all your bearings to make sure they are turning. sometimes they stick and are not turning.

[Sconi]

Sorry to not be experienced enough to post the right information, I was cutting pine and using 3.5 inches at each end, I didn't make the pattern but it was set to .251 - it took three passes to make the cut. I just upgraded to the carvetight head so most of that is new, I'll check the bearings tomorrow.

[Sconi]

The machine is old but has less than 10 hours on it.

[Sconi]

Head pressure is ok, it's in a heated shop

[Digitalwoodshop]

Check Serial number on base of machine and then on the LCD. Just to be sure the computer was not swapped so it now has 10 hours but on a previous controller hundreds.. Just so we are all on the same page.... I have seen that in used machines... A new controller..

Sounds like you are doing all the right things...

IF the Y Bearings inside the gearbox go bad, they wear the shaft letting the Y have some slack.... So check that when you have it open... the thickness at the "thin" in my picture...

Look for loose roller rail bearings letting the head flop around every so slightly.... Grab head and twist and pull looking for loose... Eyeball the roller rail bearings too, both Y and Z.

They turn and pinch on the rails and that is a tuff adjustment to get right without snapping the screws.... Tight and turned to pinch the roller rails properly...

Your on the right track... Keep up the good work...

Bearings are Metric, 685ZZ

AL

[Sconi]

Thanks Al, I'm the original owner so unless carvewright pulled a fast one on me I'm pretty sure that isn't the issue. Had it for years and let the software intimidate me in to not using it, and I'm now retired so I have more time to play with my woodworking toys!

[DickB]

I have had much better luck with two-sided projects using "jog to center" to position rather than letting the machine determine the board edges with its sensor. I use an adjustable square to mark the center of the board on both sides using the same two edges of the board as a reference for the marks. Also, make sure that your board or sled does not wander away from the rail at the keypad side. Watch the board as it is being measured, and if you see a gap between board and rail, push the board towards the rail while the board is moving. It doesn't take much error to ruin a project.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Also use Drill holes on the front to mark positions to make the placing of the art on the back easier then delete the drill hole.

And be watchfull of using restraint lines even centering. If you click on the art and if the numbers are yellow then that shows the line is restrained. This can cause position problems front to back as board size comes into play when the line is restrained to a board edge. Right click on the yellow to turn it green or un restrained.

Use Centering as a setup then turn it OFF to give you less problems.

AL