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Thread: head pressure, level head, crank handle problems

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
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    Forsyth County, GA
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    Unless I'm missing something, which has been known to happen, you absolutely can adjust the head so it is level front (keypad side) to back (exhaust side). I did it on my machine last week or so and it's very easy to do. Mine was out of whack because the jam nut on the front side was extremely loose.

    In a nutshell, you crank it until the back side is level with the notches, remove the tie rod underneath, crank (only front moves) until front is aligned with notches. Reinstall tie rod. You do need to figure out why it's off and correct that issue first. Sounds to me like the poorly installed screw you mentioned allowed the gears to slip.

    https://www.carvewright.com/assets/s...level_head.pdf

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Northern Colorado
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    Quote Originally Posted by scootertrash View Post
    Unless I'm missing something, which has been known to happen, you absolutely can adjust the head so it is level front (keypad side) to back (exhaust side). I did it on my machine last week or so and it's very easy to do. Mine was out of whack because the jam nut on the front side was extremely loose.

    In a nutshell, you crank it until the back side is level with the notches, remove the tie rod underneath, crank (only front moves) until front is aligned with notches. Reinstall tie rod. You do need to figure out why it's off and correct that issue first. Sounds to me like the poorly installed screw you mentioned allowed the gears to slip.

    https://www.carvewright.com/assets/s...level_head.pdf
    He was saying the level was off from the clear cover side (front) to the exhaust side (back) not left (keyboard) to right (bit plate).
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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Denver, Colorado, United States
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    Right, Floyd has it. The front of the machine (according to all of the manuals I've been reading) is the clear cover, not the keypad. I would have assumed the keypad as the front, as well... but LHR obviously thinks differently from you and me.

    I have it partially reassembled, enough to have the crank handle back in place. I got ~70 pounds of pressure before it clicked/ratcheted the first time, and got another 3 or 4 pounds before it stopped going down altogether. It was a hair under 75 in the end (and with the cheap used scale I have, that could be a pound or three off in either direction) - but that seems adequate to me!

    Now I am trying to resolve an issue with the handle; and this was happening before I dismantled everything, so I didn't JUST cause it myself (but last year, the first troubleshooting step I took involved pulling the handle off, so I probably DID cause, just not just now, when I disassembled and reassembled it all). The pin holding the handle onto the shaft keeps falling out as I am cranking up or down, or if I leave it in a sideways position. So then the handle comes off in my hand (or falls onto the tabletop). Haven't even checked on it yet; I am sure there some tiny retaining bracket or something I am missing, and will have to jury-rig some replacement, since I have searched and do not have any extra parts...

    But I am still happy! ~ 75 pounds of pressure means I will likely be able to start carving soon!
    - Ken
    Later model "B" Machine with CarveTight and Rubber belt upgrades
    RNB Model "A" Dust Collection, Scanning Probe, Rotary Jig
    Designer 3, Conforming Vectors, STL Importer, DXF Importer, Rotary, Basic, Pattern Editor (Probe), Advanced 3D, Centerline

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Indiana, PA
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    I had the same problem with the pin... eventually I just removed it and replaced it with a #4 bolt and a lock nut (or whatever happens to fit). I'm thinking I didnt have to drill anything, but that was 7 years ago so I'm sure I have forgotten by now.
    Doug Fletcher

  5. #15
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    Jan 2009
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    Denver, Colorado, United States
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    Okay, I think I will do the same - the parts list doesn't even show the pin (the two pieces plus pin are all listed together as #153 in the exploded view, which has a single part number of MWMA1081). Thanks for the confirmation!
    - Ken
    Later model "B" Machine with CarveTight and Rubber belt upgrades
    RNB Model "A" Dust Collection, Scanning Probe, Rotary Jig
    Designer 3, Conforming Vectors, STL Importer, DXF Importer, Rotary, Basic, Pattern Editor (Probe), Advanced 3D, Centerline

  6. #16
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    Sep 2007
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    Northern Colorado
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbfletcher View Post
    I had the same problem with the pin... eventually I just removed it and replaced it with a #4 bolt and a lock nut (or whatever happens to fit). I'm thinking I didnt have to drill anything, but that was 7 years ago so I'm sure I have forgotten by now.
    I had to do the same thing..
    RingNeckBlues
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  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Forsyth County, GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by fwharris View Post
    He was saying the level was off from the clear cover side (front) to the exhaust side (back) not left (keyboard) to right (bit plate).
    Yep, I missed something alright lol

  8. #18
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    Northern Colorado
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    Quote Originally Posted by scootertrash View Post
    Yep, I missed something alright lol
    No problem!
    RingNeckBlues
    My patterns on the Depot
    DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!

    Proven to out perform all others!
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  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Denver, Colorado, United States
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    Okay, I got a 1.25" #4 bolt with a nut, and it fits fine. 1" may have worked, but the little extra hanging out isn't in the way of anything, and it would have been very close/tight without that extra .25".

    I noticed it was indeed a little harder to crank up and down today, and when I cranked it down - I got to 60 and ratcheted, but with a (very light) hand pressure on the center of the head of the machine as I cranked again, it jumped up to 80 and stayed there.

    I decided to play it safe - I pulled the left (keypad) side off the machine again (the only panel I had put back on, so I could use the crank handle), used a degreaser to re-clean all the rods and screws and gears, then sprayed it down with dry lube. I got some of the dry lube into/onto some of the electronics, and while I wiped it down, I am going to play it safe and give it a day or two before plugging it in. I then put the left side back on, cranked it up and down again - and it literally flew up and down. Too fast, almost; the gears were a little loud.

    I tightened the screw holding the tie rod in place (the one LHR had not screwed in, in the first place), and even with it all the way tight (as tight as I could go by hand), the tie rod had a bit of play and still turned freely. This quieted it down a bit, and I tried to weigh the pressure again. Exact same issue... 60 pounds with just turning the crank, but a light hand on the top of the machine let it go to 80. Tested it was still leveled, and it is. I have no idea why it would be doing this, or if it is an issue... but since I am getting decent pressure, I am going to wait a day or two and power it up.

    I put it all back together again... except one piece. I forgot what it was when reassembling, and noticed after everything else was back together. It is a plastic guard that covers the ribbon cable that connects the machine to the keypad. I wouldn't think it is a major issue, and I am too tired right now to pull the left side off to put it back, but I will probably do that before powering it up after I let some time pass for the dry lube to, well, dry up off of the electronics.

    I had a brain fart and couldn't get the flex shaft to stay in as the final part of assembly, but eventually I remembered to turn the ring so that the little ball isn't visible...

    So, all good for now, I think.

    Now I just need to dig out my card reader - I thought I knew where it was, but it isn't there! lol... seems like I will never get to actually use my carvewright as regularly as I'd like to!
    - Ken
    Later model "B" Machine with CarveTight and Rubber belt upgrades
    RNB Model "A" Dust Collection, Scanning Probe, Rotary Jig
    Designer 3, Conforming Vectors, STL Importer, DXF Importer, Rotary, Basic, Pattern Editor (Probe), Advanced 3D, Centerline

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Northern Colorado
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    You should not have to remove the left side to put the cable cover on, if it is the big black flat one.

    When I apply the lube I spray it on a rag and then use the rag to apply it where needed. Less mess and over spray.
    RingNeckBlues
    My patterns on the Depot
    DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!

    Proven to out perform all others!
    Buy CarveWright
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    All patterns and projects that I share on the CarveWright forum are for your personal carving purpose. They are not to be shared, sold or posted on any other web site without permission from RingNeckBlues Designs.

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