My first project...this is awesome!

[kelsky]

I thought I should share my first carve with the software and jig. For those thinking about investing money and time, you will want to see this. About 2/3rds the way in, the bit just kept going to the left and started carving into the gear of the jig. Really sweet. Very expensive bit ruined. Called support and it is all my fault. You are never to use the 1/16th long bit and supposedly it is plastered everywhere. Because I didn't use the 1/8th long bit then this is the expected results. Good money out the window. Fun times. Consider all the costs and the amount of time it takes to carve on this jig.

[bergerud]

Welcome to the forum. Sorry your first post could not have been of a more positive experience. When I tried the 1/16" deep bit on the rotary, I found that it would dig into the grain when cutting to the right. The bit was so thin and flexible that the tip would pull itself under the grain. In your case, I would think that it did the same and caused a y slip. With the y now offset, it took the bit into the gear on the way back to the left.

(I do not think this is a rotary jig problem as much as it is a carving with the grain problem.)

[DickB]

The rotary jig introduces a new potential problem, in that a y-axis slip can cause machine (jig) damage. True, this can also happen if metal or metal fasteners are used in a sled, but generally this is not an issue. With no jig, the worst damage a y-axis slip can do is break a bit and ruin a board. I wonder if a mechanical y-axis stop when using the jig is worth considering? (I don't have a jig; I may be speaking out of turn.)

[jackh]

Just as a reminder, it is stated to always use "Bit Optimization Best".

[CNC Carver]

You might also want to invest in a dust collector system to help keep the dust from causing other problems for you.

[DickB]

Just as a reminder, it is stated to always use "Bit Optimization Best".

Can you provide a reference for that?

[SteveNelson46]

I thought I should share my first carve with the software and jig. For those thinking about investing money and time, you will want to see this. About 2/3rds the way in, the bit just kept going to the left and started carving into the gear of the jig. Really sweet. Very expensive bit ruined. Called support and it is all my fault. You are never to use the 1/16th long bit and supposedly it is plastered everywhere. Because I didn't use the 1/8th long bit then this is the expected results. Good money out the window. Fun times. Consider all the costs and the amount of time it takes to carve on this jig.

I can't see how using a 1/16" bit can be "User Error". If the 1/16" bit is chosen the program should adjust the spindle speed, feed rate, and plunge rate. If the user had a little more control then maybe it could be a user error. Otherwise it's a programming error.

[bergerud]

I can't see how using a 1/16" bit can be "User Error". If the 1/16" bit is chosen the program should adjust the spindle speed, feed rate, and plunge rate. If the user had a little more control then maybe it could be a user error. Otherwise it's a programming error.

They have said that the 1/16" deep bit is not to be used with the rotary jig. As I said, I believe the problem is that the bit is too flexible and gets pulled into the wood when carving with the grain. On the other hand, I have carved with Jeff Birt's 1/16" carving bit (1.1" depth of cut) and it works fine. In the software, I had to choose the 1/16" deep bit to do it so I am happy the option is there.

I do agree, it is a programming oversight to not give a warning message.

[FWMiller]

What would be nice is an option to do a roughing pass using the 3/16 long carve bit, followed by a final shallow carve with the 1/16 long carving bit. It would take longer, but it would allow you to do deeper carves and get the finer detail without taking deep passes with the thin bit.

[bergerud]

I think the problem is with the tip. You may be right, however, that it would work with a thin pass. But then you just as well use a regular carving bit. Put it in a ER11 adapter to extend it. That is how I did the deep carves before I got the deep bits. Two passes with the regular carving bit. (More feather on the fist pass to leave clearance for the second pass.)