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Thread: Stuck QC Chuck and Z Sensor Question

  1. #1

    Default Stuck QC Chuck and Z Sensor Question

    First of all I tried to just order a new z truck and Carvetight Upgrade. LHR is currently out of both the old style and upgraded z truck assemblies (as of 5/2/2014.)

    I read all the tips on removing the chuck with the z truck still in the machine- didn't work. I bent/broke flat wrenches and square drives made from screwdrivers, 1/4" inch extensions, grade 8 bolts, etc and heated it to 400 degrees according to a infrared temp gun and still wouldn't budge.

    I decided to just go ahead and take out the z truck because regardless it had to come out if I couldn't get the QC off. I cut off the plastic shroud and all the moving collar parts with a cutoff wheel afterwards. I then cut as far into the QC as possible without damaging the threads of the shaft or nicking the z truck housing badly. I heated it to 800 degrees with a propane torch and voilą !!!

    So it only took 800 degrees to free up my stuck QC chuck... but while removing the z truck (I have what seems to be an older Version A machine without any upgrades)
    I broke the Z Sensor that sweeps past the Flag. I have Designer Version 1.187 but Im unsure whether or not I still need the sensor or if i can just leave it off the z truck since I already have it removed. Ive read other posts about it no longer being necessary but I was unsure if I needed to reconnect the cable and board or what.

    Thanks for any help.

  2. #2
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    Default

    I'm having to go back a bit in my memory, but the sensor you are talking about is no longer used.
    The upgrade that is necessary for the carvetight eliminates that sensor.

    Instructions should come with the new upgrade, including the ribbon cable and circuit-board.
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by DocWheeler View Post
    I'm having to go back a bit in my memory, but the sensor you are talking about is no longer used.
    The upgrade that is necessary for the carvetight eliminates that sensor.

    Instructions should come with the new upgrade, including the ribbon cable and circuit-board.
    But what I am wondering is if I go back together with the parts I currently have and JUST replace my Bad QC with the new one i have on hand, will I HAVE to fix the z sensor (I think a little super glue is all it'll need) or is it already obsolete with the newer software and firmware that I'm using and the machine doesn't need this hardware attached anyway.

    I don't really want to spend $400+ on this machine for the Carvetight and A907 upgrade when a few months down the road I may retire this machine to light duty and just buy a new CX machine.

  4. #4
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    Mar 2012
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    Poway, CA
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    I have an A machine that originally had the z sensor. When I had sent it back to LHR for service they did an upgrade including the A907 which obsoleted the z sensor but left it in the z truck. If the z sensor is not wired up to anything your machine isn't using it anymore.

  5. #5
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    Your version of Designer is not looking for the Z Sensor so just replacing the QC and your back in business.

    Don't you just love the Red Forever Locktite... not...

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Digitalwoodshop View Post
    Your version of Designer is not looking for the Z Sensor so just replacing the QC and your back in business.

    Don't you just love the Red Forever Locktite... not...

    AL

    Thanks Al,

    Thats the the confirmation I was looking for. I melted the front of the bottom z pulley and scorched the timing belt a little bit trying to heat it in the machine so for anyone having trouble removing a QC- just bite the bullet and pull the whole z truck out(it wasn't that difficult.) Using a dremel and a cutoff wheel, cut the plastic shroud and metal ring off then cut into the chuck longways until you just barely see the threads of the shaft, wrap the whole z truck in aluminum foil to protect the bearings somewhat and then torch away at the cuts you made into the QC. With enough heat, it WILL thread off. I heated it to 800 degrees before mine would budge and after getting it off I checked the bearings and they only reached 230 degrees so hopefully no damage to them.

    And by the way- don't spend $40 on flat wrenches and a square drive then wait a week for shipping. Go buy a $30 bench grinder if you don't already have one. Get one of your china made wrenches that everyone gets in those Christmas sets(you know what I mean) and grind the open end until it's narrow enough. Then grind down an old Allen wrench to the square size you need to fit in the square flex shaft hole. Then you have a new tool and saved money. (End of Tangent)

  7. #7
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    Nov 2008
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    The easy way to get the QC off is to take the whole spindle out of the truck. Then you can use a vise and wrench (and heat if needed).

    search "Spindle Puller"

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ty.spyd View Post
    Thanks Al,

    Thats the the confirmation I was looking for. I melted the front of the bottom z pulley and scorched the timing belt a little bit trying to heat it in the machine so for anyone having trouble removing a QC- just bite the bullet and pull the whole z truck out(it wasn't that difficult.) Using a dremel and a cutoff wheel, cut the plastic shroud and metal ring off then cut into the chuck longways until you just barely see the threads of the shaft, wrap the whole z truck in aluminum foil to protect the bearings somewhat and then torch away at the cuts you made into the QC. With enough heat, it WILL thread off. I heated it to 800 degrees before mine would budge and after getting it off I checked the bearings and they only reached 230 degrees so hopefully no damage to them.

    And by the way- don't spend $40 on flat wrenches and a square drive then wait a week for shipping. Go buy a $30 bench grinder if you don't already have one. Get one of your china made wrenches that everyone gets in those Christmas sets(you know what I mean) and grind the open end until it's narrow enough. Then grind down an old Allen wrench to the square size you need to fit in the square flex shaft hole. Then you have a new tool and saved money. (End of Tangent)
    And with grinding that wrench down you probably have a stronger/better wrench. A couple of tip that has been shared for getting the loctite to break loose is to heat a rod out side of the CW and insert it up into the QC or use a soldering iron. These help to prevent over heating other parts in the machine.
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  9. #9
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    With the spindle out, you can use a real wrench. On most machines, I think the spindle is quite easy to punch out from the top. Looking back on all the problems people had with this, it seems ridiculous. I pop spindles in and out in only a few minutes.

  10. #10
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    For heat I like using a 1/2 inch bit holder and a cheap Radio Shack Soldering Iron... Insert Iron and hope for the best...

    I have one Z Truck that I gave up on getting the QC off a few years ago... Sometimes they are a bear....

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

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