Sled

[Duncan]

Do the two pieces holding my project have to be the same thickness as my project. For example if my final board measurement is 10" long by 10" wide by 3/4" high and I cut the board 10.25" by 10.25" by 3/4" and center under the rollers will there be a problem if the two end pieces holding my project are 4" by 11" by 1"?

Duncan

[eelamb]

The thickness is important that they be the same, and the width needs to be the same too, in this case.

[fwharris]

Eddie is right, the top surfaces of the board and sled should be the same. You can get away with having the carving board less than the sled thickness by having the bit touch on the board when it is doing the "finding surface". What you need to make sure of is that the board/sled top surface is the same thickness for the full piece.

[Duncan]

Thanks for your help. Since I am planing rough lumber I was hoping I could get away with the end pieces not having to be the exact thickness of the project pieces. It would eliminate the need for multiple end support pieces as each project will have different thicknesses.


Duncan

[fwharris]

Thanks for your help. Since I am planing rough lumber I was hoping I could get away with the end pieces not having to be the exact thickness of the project pieces. It would eliminate the need for multiple end support pieces as each project will have different thicknesses.


Duncan

How much difference is there between your thickest and thinnest pieces? If not to much you could set your sled up for the thickest boards. When carving the thinner ones you would have to jog to the board surface during the "finding surface" set during set up.

[unitedcases]

Going to jump in on this one...my lumber yard like to give me 7/8 boards when I want 3/4 boards. I don't know why. I always have to ask them to rerun them down to 3/4. Anyway the sides and tails of my sled are now at 7/8. That way when they try and give me 7/8 I can make it work. As a precautionary measure I always jog to touch.

I was taught years ago the art of using a sled by Al, LG, and Mtyler so I consider myself professionally trained. I went to the back of the sled and drew an index of where to put mounting holes for the various projects I do. Works very well for me. My designs are made on designer using my sled dimensions then I put the artwork or pattern on the sled where I want it. As Dan would say it isn't rocket science. You just have to figure out what works best for you. For me this is seamless when I want to carve something. Very easy to be repetitive. I can post more pics if need be.

[kcc2012]

I really appreciate this thread about sleds. Not being a woodworker I get intimidated by these types of things. I use a sled when I am scanning an abject and have only used a sled for carving once before which worked great but still no confidence in actually building one that isn't just pieced together.

Ambrose

[jakab]

As a precautionary measure I always jog to touch.

I have a couple of questions if you don't mind.

1) When you jog to touch, where do you touch? Does it matter, as long as you are on the actual board?
2) When measuring the board (actually the sled, right?) does the CW give you trouble because the ends don't extend the full width?
3) OK, I lied, I had 3 questions . When the board is measured, is the sled measured, or just the actual board on the sled?

Thanks a lot.

... Peter

[unitedcases]

My design in designer is the same as the sled. The machine measures the sled and that is the same as what is in the design. Same measurement every time.

[jakab]

My design in designer is the same as the sled. The machine measures the sled and that is the same as what is in the design. Same measurement every time.

OK, I got that part, but what about when you choose Jog to touch, where do you make the bit touch? On the sled, on the board. If on the board, where, anywhere, or a corner, or does it matter?

Thanks.

...Peter