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Thread: Rotary Jig set up in the machine.

  1. #1
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    Default Rotary Jig set up in the machine.

    I tried viewing the set up tutorials and could not get a good enough view and from what I picked up from Joe stated the jig is suppose to set on top of the fixed plate and sliding plate. With the two tabs inserted into the openings on the plates the jig sits up about 1/8" above the plate. See attached pictures..

    Is it suppose to sit ON the plate?

    Also will there be any hard copies or source to them for the jig set up in the machine? Like most my computer is not in the shop to have the videos running to do so..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Photo270.jpg   Photo268.jpg  
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  2. #2
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    I think you have it. The rotary plates sit above the squaring plates with the wheels (pullys and bearings) loosely up against the sides of the plates.

  3. #3
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    Dan,

    Thanks! Just had to ask as the video does say they sit on the plates. Was not sure if I had to file down the two tabs or not.
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  4. #4
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    Well, I received my jig in the mail yesterday. The setup was pretty straight forward except for a couple of minor glitches. The tab on the sliding plate end would not fit in the slot. I had to use a file and remove a small amount of metal on both sides of the slot on the sliding plate. I also removed a little on both sides of the tab. Now it's a snug fit and seems to function fine.

    I had the same problem as Floyd with the video. Joe's hand gets in the way of the camera and blocks all but a brief view of the jig on the sliding plate. I finally figured it out that the rollers on the jig were supposed to roll on the belts and the jig sets on the plate (duh).

    I also had a little problem with calibration. After the 3 revolutions, it would stop about a half of a turn past the mark. I used the arrow keys to reposition the mark under the bit but, when I tried to save the calibration it gave me a "calibration error". After about 3 or 4 tries I took the jig out to be sure there was nothing wrong with it and when I re-inserted it I made sure the jig was as far to the left as it would go, then checked the other end to be sure it was still properly positioned. After that every thing went smoothly. I don't know whether moving the jig over to the left solved the problem or I just had too low head pressure on the first attempt. Anyhow, it's carving as I type this message.
    Steve

  5. #5
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    Steve,

    So you are saying the both ends of the jig sit ON the plates? My tabs are very tight for the slots but have not filed them down any. I might file them down just a little so the slide into the slots a little easier but with no slop movement.

    My calibration was off just a small about and on the run after calibration is was dead on. I will do my first carve tomorrow, just trying to figure out what it is going to be.
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  6. #6
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    My tabs were quite loose. Maybe they made them wider after I got mine. The jig end plates sit above the squaring and sliding plates. The jig sits on the pulleys and bearings so there should be a gap under the jig plates.

    Calibration is sensitive to head pressure and probably position also. The O ring rides close to the side of the belt.

    If line up of the seam at the carve end is important, one should double check the calibration at the start.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bergerud View Post
    My tabs were quite loose. Maybe they made them wider after I got mine. The jig end plates sit above the squaring and sliding plates. The jig sits on the pulleys and bearings so there should be a gap under the jig plates.

    Calibration is sensitive to head pressure and probably position also. The O ring rides close to the side of the belt.

    If line up of the seam at the carve end is important, one should double check the calibration at the start.
    After looking at the design I agree that the jig will not (or should not) sit directly on the plates. If it did chances are the jig drive rollers might not be in good contact with the machine belts and you would not get good traction.

    I did pick up in the video that the squaring and calibration should be done for each carve. I did mine with the standard 1/16" carving bit since it has a finer tip vs the 1/8" long bit. Since all of this is done prior to selecting the actual carve project there should not be any problem. Right?

    I still feel that a hard copy of the jig set up and calibration should be included with the jig. I am betting there will be at least one who does not do one or the other of the steps and will be reporting about it. Even after watching the videos a couple of times when they came out I picked up some things when I viewed them tonight.

    Now off to watch the design layout ones to see what I missed on those. Looking to see about the lead in carve regions and if a feather should be used to ease the bit into the carving..
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  8. #8
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    Makes me nervous that someone would file down those tabs. Mine fit snugly and are a perfect fit. It's supposed to be that way so the jig is nice and stable when the head is lowered. Be absolutely sure you have actually positioned the jig properly before making any modification as drastic as filing something! Those two tabs have screws and elongated adjustment slots. Perhaps one or the other was 'canted' a little left or right from perpendicular. They are adjustable because you do have to do the alignment procedure using the small grooves on top of each side panel as a guide. The complete process is described in the video. I had to loosen the adjustment screws on one side and move the tab very slightly (about 1/64"-ish). This yielded a perfect alignment. No filing required.

    Floyd, the jig panels sit raised slightly above the stationary and sliding plates, as Dan mentioned. No worries, this is by design.


    EDIT: FYI...I just measured the width of both my tabs with digital calipers as well as a metal ruler. With the calipers, one measures 0.624" and the other 0.623" (essentially 5/8"). Using a metal ruler, it looks like both are dead-on 5/8" (0.625").
    Last edited by mtylerfl; 03-26-2014 at 10:32 PM.
    Michael T
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  9. #9
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    My tabs are smaller at 0.6130" and 0.6145". They look to have been filed on one side. I suppose the slots on the machines could have some variation as well. A snug fit would be nice.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtylerfl View Post
    Makes me nervous that someone would file down those tabs. Mine fit snugly and are a perfect fit. It's supposed to be that way so the jig is nice and stable when the head is lowered. Be absolutely sure you have actually positioned the jig properly before making any modification as drastic as filing something! Those two tabs have screws and elongated adjustment slots. Perhaps one or the other was 'canted' a little left or right from perpendicular. They are adjustable because you do have to do the alignment procedure using the small grooves on top of each side panel as a guide. The complete process is described in the video. I had to loosen the adjustment screws on one side and move the tab very slightly (about 1/64"-ish). This yielded a perfect alignment. No filing required.

    Floyd, the jig panels sit raised slightly above the stationary and sliding plates, as Dan mentioned. No worries, this is by design.


    EDIT: FYI...I just measured the width of both my tabs with digital calipers as well as a metal ruler. With the calipers, one measures 0.624" and the other 0.623" (essentially 5/8"). Using a metal ruler, it looks like both are dead-on 5/8" (0.625").
    Michael

    When I removed the tab I tried to fit it into the slot and it was still to big. I didn't really remove very much metal from the tab. Most of the adjustment was on the slot in the sliding plate. It's still a snug fit. I didn't think of swapping the tabs.
    Steve

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