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Thread: Scan probe very aggressive

  1. #11
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    Dec 2006
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    Brunswick, GA
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    A touch probe is probably 'always' going to leave some kind of marks or lines and yield a "textured" surface in the scan-model itself. I also have a probe for the ShopBot (actually two...one 1/16" tip and a 1/8" tip) and apparently they all work the same. I've seen some folks put little plastic balls on the tips and of course, some people use the glue tips to help minimize the "damage" to the article being scanned. (A laser scanner is the only real solution to the problem.) The sharper the probe tip, the greater the detail it picks up, but also the greater the "scratches".

    For valuable items you want to probe-scan, never scan the object itself. Rather, you would make a mold, then a casting of that, then scan the casting instead of the original object. Smooth-On has everything you need for such a task: http://www.smooth-on.com/

    I outlined sort of a cheap method of making a scannable item from something that normally could not be probe-scanned in a Tips & Tricks article. See page 4 of this article:

    ISSUE 9 June 2008 – Scanning Probe Techniques
    Michael T
    Happy Carving!


    ═══ Links to Patterns & Resources for CompuCarve™ & CarveWright™ ═══

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Poway, CA
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    I'll look this over. I've also read some other posts about making molds to scan. I figure if I can fix the excessive "check probe" errors problem I should be able to live with it between using the cover tips and making moulds.

  3. #13
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    Mar 2007
    Location
    Unionville, NY
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    My probe is agressive too. Evertything I scan is left with scratches. I also thought it was the nature of the beast. I've used plastic glue tips with better results, but they don't hold up well. I have an A machine with a CT. I don't use it anymore due to the fact I don't want to destroy what I scan.

  4. #14
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    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by FWMiller View Post
    I'll look this over. I've also read some other posts about making molds to scan. I figure if I can fix the excessive "check probe" errors problem I should be able to live with it between using the cover tips and making moulds.
    I don't use the scanner very much but, one of my first scans was a small ceramic (6" by 6") Japanese family crest. It scanned beautifully but, left the surface of the ceramic grainy and rough. On the plus side, except for the graininess, the original ceramic plaque looked new and clean. I ordered some plastic protectors and used them on subsequent scans but, some detail was lost. In most cases the loss of detail has been acceptable.
    Steve

  5. #15
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    Sep 2008
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    Nuevo, CA
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    Well the humming birds scan with a plastic thinngy on the probe was quit marginal, so I redid it the way I always have, with the tip uncovered. Scanned better and no scratches. I always remove the drive cable as AskBud instructed.
    Clint
    CarveWright StartU team member
    Web Site WWW.clintscustomcarving.com

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Brunswick, GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by cestout View Post
    ... I always remove the drive cable as AskBud instructed.
    Clint
    It's always a good idea to remove the flexshaft before scanning. There were two main reasons for this...

    1) The chuck would sometimes rotate abruptly when the scan job was started and twist the probe cable around the chuck, and...

    2) It slightly reduces the overall "load" on the truck as the object is being scanned.

    Reason #1 was the primary one - i.e., to prevent possible damage to the probe wire. Removing the flexshaft eliminated that problem.

    See page 4 of the following Tips & Tricks:
    ISSUE 9 June 2008 – Scanning Probe Techniques
    Michael T
    Happy Carving!


    ═══ Links to Patterns & Resources for CompuCarve™ & CarveWright™ ═══

  7. #17
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    Nov 2008
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    Vancouver Island
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    Besides the "rotational pulse" one gets sometimes gets when closing the lid, another reason to remove the flex is that the probe will rotate slightly as the carriage moves back and forth. I not only remove the flex but tape the chuck so the probe can not rotate from the wire pulling on it.

  8. #18
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    Nov 2008
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    Vancouver Island
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    Quote Originally Posted by FWMiller View Post
    The scanning stopped maybe 10 times during the scan and gave the message "check probe". If I wiggled the probe a little and hit enter it would go back to scanning. Most of the time it seemed to do this when going up the sides or near the middle. It also periodically paused like it was going to stop but only raised the probe up to the top in the z-direction before going back down and continuing.
    I wonder if there is not something wrong with the probe. If I remember right, it has three contact switches in a triangle which tell when the probe deflects. The magnet then brings it back ready for the next deflection If there is too much deflection required to activate the switches, the return stroke could be more brutal. Bigger strokes would make it more aggressive.

    You should post a video of it in action so other members can compare to how their probe works.

  9. #19
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    Mar 2012
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    Poway, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by bergerud View Post
    You should post a video of it in action so other members can compare to how their probe works.
    Good idea. I will try to do that next weekend.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bergerud View Post
    Besides the "rotational pulse" one gets sometimes gets when closing the lid, another reason to remove the flex is that the probe will rotate slightly as the carriage moves back and forth. I not only remove the flex but tape the chuck so the probe can not rotate from the wire pulling on it.
    I put some blue painter's tape to tame the probe wire too (one on the shelf and/or one on the probe body) - being careful not to remove so much slack that it interferes with the movement over the size of the scan area.
    Michael T
    Happy Carving!


    ═══ Links to Patterns & Resources for CompuCarve™ & CarveWright™ ═══

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