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Thread: Carvewright (compucarve) for sale

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Holmen, Wisconsin
    Posts
    8

    Default Carvewright (compucarve) for sale

    I have a Sears compucarve (model 113.217540 serial no. AC.002.445) that I would like to sell. I bought this machine with the intention of using it when I retired. The machine is in Yuma, AZ. I have since gotten involved in lapidary and the compucarve ha been stored for the last two years. When I did use the machine, I carved a few signs and tried a couple lithopanes, but it has been used very little. I also bought the probe for it. Please contact me if you have any interest. My phone is (608/792-3850 or email me at te54636@gmail. com.
    Last edited by te54650; 03-14-2014 at 12:27 PM. Reason: area code wrong

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Kodiak, Alaska
    Posts
    380

    Default

    I hope you are able to find a buyer. My dad used to do lapidary work he liked making belt buckle's and bolo ties the most. I'm not sure why he stopped. I wish I had the money and lived closer.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    north ont Canada
    Posts
    2,365

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    what you looking to get for it is an A or a B machine by the # looks like an A machine
    Henry

    Every one has a photographic memory. Some just don't have film.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    The Great Texas Gulf Coast
    Posts
    5,314

    Default

    It's an A.
    CarveWright CX Packaged System - starting at $2000
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    CarveWright Community Forum - PRICELESS!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Nuevo, CA
    Posts
    1,854

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    I think an older A so will need a bunch of upgrades.
    Clint
    CarveWright StartU team member
    Web Site WWW.clintscustomcarving.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Holmen, Wisconsin
    Posts
    8

    Default

    The machine has 36 hours on it. I am asking 600.00 for the machine and the probe. Not sure about upgrades. Can't the machine be used for most carving projects the way it is?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Galva Kansas
    Posts
    1,005

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    It could be used the way it is, but I bought a machine almost just like what you have. First, these machines need to be kept in operation. When they sit, they degrade. Almost nobody uses the original quick chuck anymore because they wear too quickly and allow too much run-out (they let the bit wobble around). Within the first month I had my machine, I had to replace the cut motor, flex cable, and the Z truck. Then came the Z motor which required the A-907 upgrade, Y motor, various bearings, board sensor. I finally upgraded to the Rock chuck after a couple months. All of that cost me about $700 in parts. I paid $500 for the machine not knowing what I was getting (it only had 20 hours on it). After all that, I could have just about bought a new one for the same money. I'm not trying to be a jerk, just explaining to you what most people are going to be thinking when considering your machine.
    Kansas Wood Shop
    Disabled Veteran owned and operated
    Visit www.kansaswood.com
    A machine with rock, CS machine, Designer 3, centerline, conforming vectors

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dehrlich View Post
    It could be used the way it is, but I bought a machine almost just like what you have. First, these machines need to be kept in operation. When they sit, they degrade. Almost nobody uses the original quick chuck anymore because they wear too quickly and allow too much run-out (they let the bit wobble around). Within the first month I had my machine, I had to replace the cut motor, flex cable, and the Z truck. Then came the Z motor which required the A-907 upgrade, Y motor, various bearings, board sensor. I finally upgraded to the Rock chuck after a couple months. All of that cost me about $700 in parts. I paid $500 for the machine not knowing what I was getting (it only had 20 hours on it). After all that, I could have just about bought a new one for the same money. I'm not trying to be a jerk, just explaining to you what most people are going to be thinking when considering your machine.
    This is a very good example of the upgrades required to get a "A" Machine up to todays standards... One thing not mentioned is the L2 in the Power Supply that likely has little glue on it and one the first things to do is add more glue to prevent it from snapping... As a owner of 4 "A" Machines I have been a owner since 2007 and have grown with the machine. The Precieved Value of the person owning the machine having paid full price for it is always much higher than the actual value to "THIS" group. We know what it takes to convert this machine to the current level of "Reliability".

    I will break it down from the quote....

    Replaced the Cut Motor.... Very common especially if the person selling the machine stored it with the Flex Shaft Installed... Or worst shipped it with the flex installed.... It puts pressure on the Cut Motor Housing and snaps the front of the plastic case. And likely it has the Shrink Tube and Glue holding the Magnet. The Magnet is known to fly off... A upgrade was the plastic retainer... You will need to send the motor in to get that installed...

    Replaced the Flex Shaft... Again shipping it with the Flex Installed will wreck a flex... and even a Dry one from sitting around will self destruct if not properly lubricated.

    Z Motor.... I had to replace them... The Encoder Board plug connection would snap and the bit would drive into the board... had 2 of them...

    A907 Upgrade... This was Phase 2 of the Z Problem... First was the encoders like above.... Then the "Thinness" if I spelled that right... the 18 pin flat FSC Cable was so thin and it flexed back and fourth... It carried the power to the Z Motor... and brought back signals like the Encoder, Board Sensor, Z Homing Sensor, Probe Data, and even another Magnetic Speed Sensor in the Z Truck... the last 3 were deleted from that cable and hence the A907 14 pin cable with THICKER wires.... It had the ability to give more PUSH to the Z Motor with the thicker wire more like a "D" Battery and the old 18 pin like a "AA" Battery... Both worked but the "D" has more push...... More "Current" capable wire.... as in voltage... NO 18 pin FSC Cables are sold only the 14 pin... So the A907 kit has 2 Circuit Boards to match the 14 pins and you remove the 18 pin boards and TRASH them... Plugging a 14 pin New Cable into a old 18 PIN SOCKET and the wider pins SHORT OUT THE COMPUTER.... SO it must be upgraded....

    Y Motor Replacement..... Early units... The Clear Encoder Disk would spin free on the shaft.....

    Various Bearings.... The Roller Rail Bearings are known to FREEZE UP when the Sawdust inside them gets hard... I have one that I bought that I need to replace all 8....

    Board Sensor.... I played this game for way TOO long.... Early Board Sensors the Green Circuit Board was NOT glued to the black plastic housing and the LED's were the only thing holding it....until they snapped off... So it must be replaced with a new one or try to glue it...

    QC Replaced with the ROCK Chuck... Yep, I was a early user of the ROCK and STILL Love it... The QC must go... It will fail and even throw bits at you..... I walked out of the shop after changing the V60 bit and I hear a POP and the machine stopped... The QC had thrown the bit and it hit the clear cover opening it enough to stop the machine..... ALL This can be found in my many posts of 2007-2010.... Since them, the machine has been very reliable....

    Note the picture of the 2 Z Trucks... The early castings had a THIN bottom Right Bearing Hole... The Wedge Head of the Bearing Screw acted like a WEDGE and SPLIT the CASTING.... The Black Washer was the Excellent FIX until later Castings had the thicker Screw Hole and the un used holes like the Probe Data and Z Homing Sensor were plugged.... ADD a Washer before it SNAPS....

    SO my Value of the machine like yours is about $350.00....... and for good reason.... Craigs List has many buyers not having a cue... sad to say... or even eBay... WE are informed buyers...
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    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 03-18-2014 at 01:44 PM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

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    More pictures..... Add to that the C1 Capacitor on the X Termination Board.....

    I LOVE the MACHINE.... It just took a long time to get to this level of Reliability.....

    AL
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    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Darn AL... Tell them how you really feal....
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    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 03-17-2014 at 07:31 PM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


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