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Thread: lithopane sled making

  1. #21
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    Yep, once I went back to the old Designer, the problem went away. Too bad, as I really liked the new features on version 2. I hope CW will fix the issue and not force us all to get rid of the Rock Chucks. If CW had addressed the problems with that piece of crap original chuck, and in a timely manner, I would never have bought someone elses. The way they handle this issue will be a deciding factor in whether I buy a second CW or a flat bed CNC. It certainly is keeping me from buying any more software add ons at this point too.
    Greg Luckett
    Great Lakes Wood Arts Co.
    Saint Joseph, MI

  2. #22
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    The sled just finished but is not exactly to the dimensions I wanted. Instead of 12x6 it is 12.125x6.125. The depth is close to the 3/8. Turns out my acrylic is slightly under 3/8 so must actually be a metric dimension. I will be inquiring to the supplier about this. Their 6x12 is slightly under that. I will use shimming to place the acrylic blank into the sled and give it a go tomorrow. It is nearly 11pm and I am tired. Thanks to each of you for your help. This forum has once again proved its worth to me. I hope CW gets the software fixed soon as I do not want to have to learn how to use a flat bed cnc unless I really need to. Good night all.
    Greg Luckett
    Great Lakes Wood Arts Co.
    Saint Joseph, MI

  3. #23
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    I am curios as to witch of the patterns works best and is the easiest for the pockets cuts I didn't finish the pattern but it to give you an idea...It seems to me that if you do the rectangle as a individual cut on each rectangle the bit would lift up and back down..
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  4. #24
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    The difference could be the taper on the bit I am guessing. When you go to carve you will probably want to jog the bit over so it touches on the acrylic and not on the board since is less that 3/8". When it does the "finding surface" step press the stop button once and select #1 jog. Use the arrow keys to move the truck into position over the acrylic..
    RingNeckBlues
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  5. #25
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    I assigned the .125 cutting bit for the pocket cuts . What I'm asking is a cut path better..... or making the rectangle as cuts does the bit stay down... or lift up and down for each rectangle, I also made the pocket cut .25 deep.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by fwharris View Post
    The difference could be the taper on the bit I am guessing. When you go to carve you will probably want to jog the bit over so it touches on the acrylic and not on the board since is less that 3/8". When it does the "finding surface" step press the stop button once and select #1 jog. Use the arrow keys to move the truck into position over the acrylic..
    I think the question is which is better, a series of concentric rectangles or one continuous spiraling line. I think one continuous line would be better as long as the bit doesn't take to much bite on each pass. No lifting of the bit. It's a little more difficult to establish an exact outside perimeter though.
    Steve

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by aokweld101 View Post
    I am curios as to witch of the patterns works best and is the easiest for the pockets cuts I didn't finish the pattern but it to give you an idea...It seems to me that if you do the rectangle as a individual cut on each rectangle the bit would lift up and back down..
    What I do is start from the inside and spiral out and finish by going around the boundary. The bit stays down on one path the whole time. I try and cover as much as I can with y paths. I use a fine 1/16" or 1/32" snap grid to draw the cut paths.

    Here is an example of some pockets from my rotary jig project. (Toggle non end points to see where they start and stop.)
    Attached Files Attached Files

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveNelson46 View Post
    I think the question is which is better, a series of concentric rectangles or one continuous spiraling line. I think one continuous line would be better as long as the bit doesn't take to much bite on each pass. No lifting of the bit. It's a little more difficult to establish an exact outside perimeter though.
    I do agree on that point. They are not as easy to lay out and probably why I just use the offset tool. A trade off between design time and a small amount of carve time I guess..
    RingNeckBlues
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  9. #29
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    Thank you, it was the first time seeing it done with the rectangles I have been doing cut paths working from the center out with the offset and like you guys said it is the last cut around the pocket cut that I have to adjust my grid to make it work. thanks again!

  10. #30
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    I might try this on the next sled cutout, adjusting the sizes to fit mine.
    What are the little risers for?
    Did you set up the rectangles as cut paths?
    I have gone back to Designer 1.187 since the 2.004 version will not home the Z axis correctly.

    Quote Originally Posted by brdad View Post
    This is one of the sleds I made for lithophanes using 3/8" flat bit for the recess and the 1/8" straight bit for access holes in the corners. Ya, the little corners do need to be cleaned off with a chisel - I could have fixed that, but it's easier to chisel.
    Greg Luckett
    Great Lakes Wood Arts Co.
    Saint Joseph, MI

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