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Thread: CarveTight ordered

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Poway, CA
    Posts
    350

    Default CarveTight ordered

    I've had a version A CompuCarve for a while now but have not been able to get a lot of time on it. So far I've only got 92 hours on the timer. I just added dxf importer and straight line to my software so I expect to be able to do some more exciting projects. I originally thought I'd hold off on upgrading the spindle since I had a extra never used carving bit and figured I could get some more life out of the original hardware while getting more practice on the machine before springing for the upgrade. So, next thing I break off my 1/8th cutting bit and need to order another to finish a project. Plus the QC was sticking pretty bad making it very difficult to release the bits. Reading around here made it pretty clear that the end could be for the QC chuck. So, looking at $40 for a bit, realizing how easy it was to break the first plus a sticky QC I convinced myself to spend the extra money to go ahead and buy the carvetight. Not because the bits are any cheaper (as they obviously aren't) but also because I found these nifty looking chucks discussed while browsing through this forum. BTW, a big thanks to the designer. I'm hoping these will save me a few bucks down the road on bits as well as open up some extra freedom. It's nice to see all the clever add ons and work around's posted here on the forum.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/281142871145...84.m1439.l2649

    Now I'm just anxiously sitting around waiting for the delivery man.

    While I'm waiting, can anyone tell me if they have used both upcut and downcut spiral cutting bits? I know the trade-off's and differences between the two in general, however I'm curious if the downcut can be used with any success with the carvewright when I want to get a cleaner surface cut or does it just clog things up too much? Any recommendations on what specifics to look for in a spiral cutter (1/16" up to 1/4") for best results in the Carvewright?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Since many times the machine is better off doing a multi pass cut path and the down cut would likely catch the board on fire as it would be a plung cut with no place for the chips to go... so the short answer here is NO in my opinion. Along the same line... stay away from the Roto Zip Bits... they will bend and destroy the machine.

    Since you have a "A" machine be aware....

    1. You may have the old 18 pin FSC Cable system... the A907 kit will fix that. Know if you install a 14 pin new cable without changing the circuit board on both end you can short out the computer... IF you have the old 18 pin.... See Pictures....

    2. The L2 Coil on your power supply may snap off causing a power problem.

    3. The board sensor may be the Earliest version where the circuit board was not glued to the plastic holder and the LED's snap off.

    And the snapped bit could have been caused by a rolled under Sand Paper Belt at the brass roller...

    Good Luck,

    AL
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails BS1.jpg   DSC03710_WEB.jpg   DSC06680_WEB.jpg  
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Poway, CA
    Posts
    350

    Default

    Thanks AL for the advice. I did check and verify that my machine already had the A907 with the new 14 pin connector installed from the factory before I ordered it. At least there's one thing I don't have to upgrade...

    Just to clarify, are the problems you refer to with the L2 coil and board sensor just problems associated with the "A" version machines? Or are these issues I'm more likely to see after the upgrade?

    Frederick

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Look at the L2 and if it has extra glue on it then it should be OK... early Power Supplies did not get enough glue on a few power supply's. Because the coil has some weight to it, in the early "A" days many of us like ME ran a bad QC too long after it was bad having or putting BB marks in the Bit Holders. The High Speed Vibration acts like the vibrating cutting tools... and the L2 coil vibrated and like taking solid copper house wire and bending and bending it until it changes color and snaps... The L2 coil would snap one lead that is in line like a fuze in the output circuit as a noise filter. When it snaps the power goes out...

    And the Board Sensor... After versions and replacement board sensors had a very thin smear of glue around the circuit board holding it to the black holder.... so it could have the fixed version since you ordered it with the A907.

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


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