I'm looking at the ringneck blues dc insert, I already have a hard enough time changing bits with my limited hand movements so would need to set it out to change bits. Would it work without bolting down? Maybe some Velcro on the bottom?
I'm looking at the ringneck blues dc insert, I already have a hard enough time changing bits with my limited hand movements so would need to set it out to change bits. Would it work without bolting down? Maybe some Velcro on the bottom?
Yes velcro will work fine. I use it with my dust collector. DC is a must have!
Good deal, was hoping it would. Now I gotta figure out how I want to route the DC in the shop, only 4 tools but along a 20' bench and one turn for 6'. Thinking 4" pipe under the bench and plumbing through it with the required/reduced size for each tool. After a couple years of getting covered in saw dust it's a relief to know it's about to be a thing of the past.
I guess I see no reason that velcro would not work to hold the DC-INSERT in place. I would recommend a good quality velcro and when installing the DC-INSERT make sure you hook the front lip on the frame above the compression roller and pull the insert all of the way towards the front of the opening to set it in place. Always double check the clearance between the chuck and the front of the insert.
For changing bits I find it works best if you rotate the chuck so the screw faces the bit plate.
Let me know how you make out..
RingNeckBlues
My patterns on the Depot
DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!
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Some interesting facts and a chart of the toxicity of some woods and sawdust are listed on this website. The Western Red Cedar was particularly interesting. I didn't know where else to put this post so I thought the dust collection thread was the closest to being appropriate.
http://islandwoodturners.ca/document..._toxicity.html
Steve
RingNeckBlues
My patterns on the Depot
DC-INSERT It Just Sucks!
Proven to out perform all others!
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I need some help, been trying to gather up everything i need online and getting a major headache from all the confusing info online. Was thinking thin wall pvc, but trying to figure out all the adapters to connect to tools, and hose to pvc, reducers, blast gates, which route to take has me ready to pull my hair out.. I have the 2hp harbor freight DC, miter saw 2" ID, router table is 2.25"ID, CW table saw and planer are 4". Was thinking of going to ceiling at DC then down the wall teeing to each tool, but don't know if this is the best way? I know nothing about dust collectors and how to get the most out of it.
A couple of years ago I got around to installing a DC in my basement shop.
Not knowing what I was doing, I read a bunch and came up with a system that works for me.
I wanted five drops/locations and did not want to use six-inch pipes.
The distances were such that four-inch was not such a good idea.
For about 15-20 feet, I ran two four-inch pipes together.
The furtherest outlet was about forty-feet from the DC.
Here is a shot of my cluttered workshop that shows the double part.
I used metal gates and ran my ground-wires inside (jumping over the gates, but contacting them).
Six-inch might have been better, but I did it this way.
The two 4-inch ducts join together at the far end to go another fifteen - twenty feet (router table).
Don't know it it helps, but may give you an idea.
Ken,
V-1, 2, & 3
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What size DC system do you have Ken? Mine is 1hp & wish I would have bought a 2hp long ago when I first started out.
JerryB:.
CarveWright START U Team Member
Using 1.187, Conform, PE/Probe, Centerline.
"Let's start sharing PTNs instead of MPCs so ALL SW versions can view & share"
On any of your junctions/off shoots I would suggest using only sweep (45 degree) joints with the sweep pointing to the DC. The reason being that any 90 degree turns will decrease the efficiency (velocity) of your DC by quite a lot. If you are using PVC pipes you will need to run ground wires inside the pipes from your DC to your machines.
George