CT Adapters Move Easily with Heat

[bergerud]

I just performed a simple experiment that I think should especially interest the Rock users. We have talked about pressing the CT adapters off and on. Some have pounded and some have used vises and presses. I pressed one off and on before with a vise and found it was pretty darn tight.

Well, I thought I would try some heat. I clamped a CT carving bit lightly in a vise and took a pencil flame propane torch to the adapter. After a few seconds, it just slid down the shank.

This is very good news for the Rock users because the pressing method only works in one direction: to push the shank butt end out through the adapter. (One cannot push hard on the flutes.) To move the adapter down the shank would require pressing the bit completely out and then back in (but not so far). Also, one needs spacers, punch pins, and either a press or a big vise.

With the heat method, you can move the adapter anyway you want with just a light touch. No large, scary forces.

Rock users can buy the deep carving bits with the knowledge that they can deal with the adapters.

The 1/4" Rock users can just remove the adapter with a propane torch.

The 1/2" Rock users can just use the torch to slide the adapter the required 1/4" - 1/2" down the bit shank. (The exact distance needs to be determined.)

Isn't it fun when it is simple!

[liquidguitars]

Well done. Now I can use some of the old 1/16 ball and cut bits I got from Lawrence with the CT adapters!

[RogerB]

Thanks nice to know have some bits that I have not used and just put in a drawer.

[blhutchens]

That works well. I salvaged some adapters off of old or broken bits. Not sure of proper procedure to get the temper back to where it should be. I did chuck them in a drill and lightly emory clothed em just to clean em up. Seems to work fine.

[bergerud]

There is no problem with temper. I doubt they are tempered and even if they are, the propane barely gets them warm by metal standards.

There is certainly no problem with heat and the bits. They barely get hot and even if they did, it would make no difference. Carbide can stand tremendous heat. (Ever noticed that the carbide tips on your saw blades are brazed on!)

If one wants to use them on a different bit, make sure the new bit has a diameter of 0.2500". 0.2495" might not be tight. 0.2490" slips right through. I think most solid carbide shanks are pretty close to 0.2500". One should check.

Edit: Second thought, one might want to cold press in a new bit the last little bit just to know it is tight.

[FWMiller]

Will this trick work with the QC adaptors? I've got a brand new never been used 1/16 carving bit in a QC but recently upgraded to the carvetight. Could I use this to remove the QC adaptor and put the bit in my ER11 chuck?

[FWMiller]

Never mind. Dumb question. I had thought they were pressed on too. But after looking closer I noticed what I thought were pins in the side are actually allen screws. Doohh!

[bergerud]

Sometimes there is also Loctite holding the bit in the QC adapters and heat will help.

[Ton80]

Never mind. Dumb question. I had thought they were pressed on too. But after looking closer I noticed what I thought were pins in the side are actually allen screws. Doohh!

Those allen screws are generally held in place with loctite ( dam auto spell wanted kept changing that to lactate, lol ) so a torch to heat it up is probably still going to be needed. I've found I needed heat to loosen the screws and also to remove the bit from the adaptors.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I use a Deep Socket to help hold and remove the QC bit holders and a little torch. I tap the bit through the QC bit holder with a punch.

GOOD to know on the CT's..

AL