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Thread: Call the fire department

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Michigan
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    1,109

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    Zan, Do you use masking tape? As Al would say (and he is correct), "It is all about the masking tape" It really helps the brass roller track properly on the board. I almost carve hardwood exclusively and as long as the board is flat and I use blue tape, I haven't had a problem with movement....
    John
    www.jdmwoodworks.com
    Facebook Page: click FB button on web page

    Bessemer, MI (shop location)
    Lake Gogebic, MI (where I hang my hat)

    "He who wants by the yard, but gives by the inch, should be kicked by the foot"...

  2. #12

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    Take a look at this thread: http://forum.carvewright.com/showthr...eating-problem.

    It appears that you have one of the newer cutting bits. Counting the number of flute edges down my bits, my old one has 5 and my new one has 7. Yours also has 7. In the industry this is referred to as the helix angle. The old bit appears to be about 20 degrees and the new 30. I have observed that the newer bit packs more sawdust behind the cut and runs considerably hotter - 180 degrees F and more versus 130 - than the old bit; same machine, same project, same board. I could not find a source for a 20 degree helix four flute bit, but did find a two flute 30 degree bit (30 degree helix angle is quite common). I measured that bit as being even a bit cooler than my old 4 flute 20 degree helix angle bit. It also evacuates more sawdust behind the bit. I have switched over to the two flute bit on my last several projects and have had no burning issues. I see that your bit is discolored as were mine after very little use. I have no discoloration on the two flute.

    My first use of the new bit was scary and prompted me to install a smoke detector immediately above my machine and place a 2.5 lb fire extinguisher outside the Carvewright room door, which admittedly I should have done on day one.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Posts
    407

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    From my experiences using hand held and table mounted routers if the bit is discolored it probably is shot. By that I mean it has overheated enough that it has lost it's temper (No! It didn't get mad.) and will no longer hold an edge. It is advisable to replace any discolored (blue/black) bits.
    George

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Cornwall, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,343

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    As far as the new 1/8 carving bit, I do not use it any more because of the heat problem. Tape seems to be a solution so I will use it for sure. Do have a fire extinguisher very close by and fire alarm. Also, need to get a dust collecting system ASAP.
    Thanks all!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Goodman, Missouri
    Posts
    2,922

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    Get your dust collection from Floyd (ringneck blues dust collection). User name FWHARRIS
    Last edited by eelamb; 11-24-2013 at 08:01 PM.
    Using Designer 1.187, STL importer, Center line, conforming vectors, scanning probe/PE, and the ROCK chuck.

    Eddie





  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Posts
    407

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    Quote Originally Posted by eelamb View Post
    Get your dust collection from Floyd (ringneck blues dust collection).
    +1 on the Ringneck Blues DC. I put one on my machine before it was turned on for the first carve.
    George

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    The Colony, TX - Suburb of Dallas
    Posts
    294

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    Dust Collection will also eliminate a majority of your sensor errors. Before I put dust collection on (3 carves), I had to clean out the board sensor each time. Now very rarely do I have to clean it.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Southgate, Mi
    Posts
    1,317

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    Quote Originally Posted by zan29 View Post
    After cleaning it up yesterday, I could tell that the board had moved just a tiny bit. Had this issue couple of times cutting out hardwood. Is there a way to prevent that? You all right about being there during the cutout. My CW is downstairs so I always hear what's going on but I could have saved my bit just being right there.
    No, the problem, like I said, is the x-drive moved and the board didn't. This threw your cut path off and the bit was cutting at 3/4" when it thought it was cutting 1/8". You need to use masking tape on the bottom of the wood, to improve traction.
    "Carved with Love"

    Happiness comes from within.
    But joy comes from helping others.

    Measure twice... and then sneak up on it!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brunswick, GA
    Posts
    8,123

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    Hi Bert,

    If he specified 1/8" MAX Pass in the Cut Path menu, then it doesn't matter where the cutout started...it would never exceed 1/8" at a time per pass. I have used masking tape maybe three or four times in nearly 7 years (on MDF projects)...otherwise, no. I just slightly "scuff" the edge of the board that contacts the brass roller with some 150-grit sandpaper. Many folks swear by the use of the masking tape, but you need to be sure it is very securly pressed down or it could cause slippage as well.
    Michael T
    Happy Carving!


    ═══ Links to Patterns & Resources for CompuCarve™ & CarveWright™ ═══

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    1,109

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    Michael makes a good point about the use of masking tape. I am a fan of using it, but agree that it does need to be carefully pressed in place to guard against slippage. I don't carve mdf, so not sure if tape is effective or not, but I like Michael's suggestion of slightly scuffing the edge. Learned something new today, which is a good thing...
    John
    www.jdmwoodworks.com
    Facebook Page: click FB button on web page

    Bessemer, MI (shop location)
    Lake Gogebic, MI (where I hang my hat)

    "He who wants by the yard, but gives by the inch, should be kicked by the foot"...

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